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Only MOD Defenders seemed to have them. I prefer the new pressed roof ribs though, that's what I picked up for my rebuild.

If I was doing it again I would thin down some polyester bedliner about 40% and spray on a good couple coats and then give it 2 weeks to cure. That would never come off if done right.

No, the hubs are all DC devices with a wallwart, so just need to convert DC-DC to power one. Will depend on what's available at the time, doing custom dash panels (think SIIA) so easy enough to mount up a series of accessories.

I was just going to mount a USB hub and plug it into the inverter or a least a dc-dc adapter.

A 2000km trip through 1st world countries, just take a cc and have fun. Really, that kind of drive is called a "long weekend getaway" here.

Hmm, guess I forgot to hit Post earlier. The alternator has the plug and everything is hooked up fine, except the oil pressure switch which was apparently broken at some point so added a new one to my current shipment. Just finished up applying sealant to the bottom of the seatbox to cover up the butyl matting sound deadener and hopefully in a day or two I should have it in place and be able to start hooking up some more bits as well as my modified rad frame (had to push the rad back 3 inches to let the intercooler clear the winch) and will hopefully be able to look at getting things to turn over. (another fun one is that the aux right-arch tank gets in the way of just about any work back there so has to sit out until that's done, which means fitting a petcock on the transfer pipe if I'm going to put any fuel into the main tank, will have to handle that one tomorrow as well. At least it FEELS like progress. Thanks.

OK, that makes sense. Will fix it later when I need to do that. Thanks, I think I've sorted out everything except the oil pressure switch so far.

Actually even with the hose off there is not enough room.

OK, the alternator connector does not fit "under" the thermostat housing unless I remove the bypass pipe, which I know I did not do during disassembly (though I am replacing it this week when the new one arrives so no big deal) so perhaps someone else routed it incorrectly in the past?

Excellent, thanks Les, I think that gives me exactly what I need. Except the plug at the end of that harness, which bulkhead opening is it intended to go through? I suspect on a LHD there would be an extension harness to make things reach? Looks like Richards did not put any chassis grounding posts in place before galvanizing either (just also found out they left off the rear exhaust hanger which is why I've been so confused about that) so will probably drill and tap some brackets to put some M8 stainless good solid ground lugs in place as well. It is odd but I'm really looking forward to doing my 2nd build, then I'll have a working example to go off and it'll go so much faster.

I have the logical wiring diagram but I am a little confused on the proper physical wire routing to get the harness back on my 1992 200TDI 110. I suspect some of this is due to fact I am re-assembling it as LHD over a year after taking things apart (I just cannot believe there have been so many shipping delays) and could use some help identfying where each wire is supposed to run physically around the engine bay. I am trying to avoid doing a new harness until I have the basics up and running to help avoid furthur confusion. My last big wiring experience was tracking down a bad ground on a D2 and I think that left me a bit scarred. I realize this harness is significantly simpler and well within my abilities but for some reason I am still feeling severe anxiety about working on it. Any advice, especially photos, would be great. I hope to have most of what I need to get things running by this weekend (barring back-orders) and it would feel good to get this step dealt with. On the upside I expect te rest of the noise damper to get here today and tomorrow so at least I will have the seatbox in place for the weekend. To get the engine running I assume the minimum needed is the battery, glow plug timer, fuel cut-off solenoid, starter relay and starter solenoid wired up? I have to say I really appreciate the help here and envy the fact you guys can usually just find a working vehicle to compare with. 95% of what I am doing is inferred logically vs by example and some things just do not always seem to work that way.

Basically the stock paint is useless and replacing will end in the same results. They should be anodized not painted. Have not gotten to that point yet in the build but I'd just have them re-finished with a good base/clear and keep them waxed and it should stop happening.

On this note could someone measure how much dipstick tube protrudes upwards from the case? When I went to check mine I found that the tube had slid down and into the sump so I want to make sure it is at the correct length, should probably remove and solder/epoxy it in place properly.

Is there a power AM/FM antennae that fits well? I do not often use radio but would like to keep the option while having it protected from harm when not in use (would just wire it up with a toggle switch). Somehow my wingtop chequerplate arrived with the antennae opening on the left side vs the right which got me thinking. Will likely mount the CB/ham antennae on the right side where I can bolt it directly to the plate for strength.

How did you get bearings? Everyone I have talked with says they are not available from anywhere.

Thanks, much appreciated. The rest of the build is starting to progress quickly and I'd really better get started on the dash and wiring this weekend. At least getting all the parts.

As I am still waiting on my new doors I cannot measure to determine the maximum width of my fabricated dash. Would someone with a 2007+ or 2007+ doors and door cards be able to measure both the distance between the door cards when both doors are closed (at the dash) and the width of the dash itself please? I know Defender dashes are slightly narrower than Series II ones but I don't know by how much, I have a complete Series IIa one here I'm using for inspiration but the Defender one is entirely in pieces and I'm not sure I could find enough to get a reliable measurement. On the up-side if this project goes well, a fully functional alloy dash will be commercially available, inspired by the Series IIA but with a centre console and lots of spaces for bolt-on gauge panels (and panels pre-cut for various sized gauges, switches, and LCD touchscreens). I realize this is going to be expensive which is why I hope to help offset some of the costs by doing the design with CAD and making it easy to replicate. I'm still always interested in examples of what others have done as well.

I second the endorsement of Duncan, he has been probably the easiest vendor to deal with from Canada of all the ones I've tried, excellent competitive prices and none of the stereotypical 'attitude'.

Yeah, it was the inner fender position/warp. A jack, a 2x4 and some patience and I got it right. (photos up) Thanks.

The photos have vanished. Also, if you're worried about the eye pulling tie a clover-hitch knot around the drum then affix the eye, a hitch is self-tightening and should even in dyneema add a whole lot of holding power. (climber)

I did put up a photo if you follow the link below and go to the last page (probably on the last page, I put it up last night).

Well, what should the angle of the front wing be? There seems to be about half and inch horizontally and about an inch vertically, and the top of the wing is more or less level as it is.

I asked this before but I cannot find the thread. I was wondering if anyone had detailed assembly pics for a ground-up build? Preferably a 200TDI 110 but any would help. I am at the point of attaching one wing and am a little confused as to why the bolt holes to the chassis do not line up, I am assuming there is something else between them.

Yeah, got things fitting but it required a bit more than a trim. Had to cut all the way through downwards (posted a photo) but things seem OK, will just have to make up a flexible cover. Thanks.

I'm just fabricating a dash from scratch, but I suspect that would fall under crazy prices. If it turns out nice though I'll keep the plans and be able to churn out more.