ajh

I am aware of this which is why I was hoping to get feedback from a few. I did the tank drop/install/cradle patching etc and the instal is in my opinion very clean. I just have issues with customers and 'well I didn't think it was going to take that long' so I want to collect information so I have something to justify the time etc and show that these things do take time. Since Defenders and heaters in general are few and far between over there there isn't really a market to look at to compare service costs etc.

That would be helpful but for an entirely different reason. I'm looking to try to judge my install time/costs versus others who've had them installed to make sure the amount is fair/in the ballpark.. etc.

Would someone who has had a Webasto Thermotop-C professionally installed in a Defender (ideally TD5) please get in touch. with me. I need to ask you something and it would be a huge help. Thanks.

Good question; I'm not 100% sure... there's usually a bin of left-overs from kits and I grabbed a set from there at the time.

This one is a poly; so it going soft was unexpected. It has not totally collapsed like a rubber one but it is a lot softer than it should be. I guess for now I'll replace it then top-coat with something to try to protect it.

My problem has been having the material melt due to chemical exposure (B100); so I was hoping to replace with something that wouldn't melt if re-exposed.

Due to a unique issue I'd like to investigate alternatives to bushings on the chassis end of the rear a-frame. Has anyone tried anything else, JJ etc?

Similar experience, though I did use some sealant as the tank was a bit deformed outwards and I wanted to make sure it was a good seal... no issues since... yay.

So, anyone had any luck with removing and re-gasketing one of the new plastic rads? This is on a 200TDI Defender, getting one of the brass ones here re-cored is the long term plan but I need a quick fix.

Anyone offhand know what the fitting that goes from the 200TDI head to 5/8" hose is on the threaded end? It would be a bit of trouble to drive to the store, wait for it to cool and match it up and if it ends up being BSPT or BSPP those are just not available anyway. I need to change it out for a 3/4" fitting. Thanks.

A day after a plastic coolant adapter burst (my heater box is 3/4 and the engine 5/8) the rad is now leaking coolant from the area where the top oil cooler port comes through the plastic end tank. It looks like it is internally sealed; do I have to uncap the end tank and put in a new o-ring or similar or is just tightening the jam nut likely to be enough? It was noticeably loose.

So, the moral on this one is...always check to see the person 'helping' out did everything in the right order. It is a bit embarrassing but the problem was that they never removed the wood that was blocking up the transmission when the engine went back in and bolted in the engine mounts thus putting stress on entire driveline. This was causing the shifting into 1st issue; and the fact the transmission mounts were basically blocks of wood was causing the unusual vibration. Always check for the obvious, do not trust someone else has!

Just finishing up someone else's V8 to 200TDI disco conversion and haven't worked on the short stick R380 before. Is there a troubleshooting document that covers how to set things up if for example when you shift into 1st it doesn't feel 'solid' and pops out into neutral about half the time when you apply power? All the other gears seem fine. Thanks.

I'm talking about the part that goes into the servo from the pedal; it is a rod with a fork like end. Though since I seem to do everything the hard way, any help will be for next time. This time I just modified things enough to fit properly... so now I've got a D1 double diaphragm brake booster in my 110. Yay.

Anyone know the correct way to remove the push-rod that attaches to the Defender brake pedal from the servo? I need to swap one this morning and the visibility isn't great.

I usually put either 2x4s across or bars drilled appropriately and bolt through to the mounting holes and then strap that down to the rack.

I just added a pedal height screw when it was out; easy enough.

Well, looks like it's the master... obvious wear on the piston and seal.. I'm close to just machining my own replacement unit. There's got to be a better way to do these; not every vehicle has them failing this often.

I rebuilt the pedal box to remove the small amount of slop I was feeling but when re-fitting I noticed the screw that in the diagrams is for 'pedal height' on mine is nearly at the bulkhead and above the first pivot so has zero affect on pedal height... is this a different type of pedal box that I can't find the directions for? The screw seems to be a stop for maximum pedal depression and not resting height as it touches the pedal arm just above the assist spring...

It is what I had... it is installed correctly; this is the 4th in this vehicle.. I've tried adjusting the pedal box, as well as changing to a slightly different slave cylinder... I guess the master is the only real thing left.

So I had a valeo HD clutch installed and the friction disc came apart (rivet failure) so I swapped in a LUK friction disc that looked identical in thickness.... now without changing anything else at all it is behaving like the pushrod is too short. At best the clutch slips with the pedal fully depressed... Ideas?

This one absolutely has a cast clutch fork, and the push-rod has a pin on the end of the ball end... otherwise it seems the same length as the LT77 one. The main issue is the fork is sitting 80% of the way back in the bellhousing so the front end of the pushrod is recessed beyond the mounting face which just seems wrong.

I was able to confirm they installed the STC8362 clutch kit and that it was likely a V8 transmission. Still looking to figure out which release bearing that kit contains.

I've got a 200TDI conversion here that has an R380 with the case clutch fork. The push rod in place has a pin on the 'ball' (fork) end. Can anyone tell me how much space there should be between the front face of the bellhousing where the slave attaches and the resting fork? It feels like it is nearly all the way back in the housing... I'm feeling like there is a mismatch between rod, R380, fork and possibly release bearing... I didn't put it together though and am reluctant to pull the engine just to take a look if at all avoidable.

Does anyone know the specs on the heater plug that goes into the Bosch diesel filter heat for keeping the filter clear in cold weather? Wattage, size, etc... Thanks.