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Everything posted by LR90

  1. That's a good initiative. Be nice to see some other areas doing similar.
  2. Not LR but got a free cat encased in mud under the hood of a car I'd just brought home once
  3. Looks nice though I'm not sure my compressor would have the stamina to bring it all up to pressure. Nige (and others..) what's the general consensus re the snap in connectors though? PCL or the shorter Euro type connector. I seem to have a good mix of both which can be pretty frustrating at times.
  4. OK, trip out tonight was fine but suddenly very noisy on the way back. Not looked yet but think the middle pipe has become detached just fwd of the center box. Now a cheap center section from Paddocks will probably do five years (like the last one) but its not bling and I gave up trying to fit the last replacement rear section I purchased as it just wouldn't line up. So, what are peeps experiences on the stainless systems? Seems a lot of dosh and I'll either mod or shelve the rear section but will it still be bling and silent in five years.
  5. LR90

    Soft tops

    Is is just the 90 bikini top you want to fit? If so then yes, just take the hardware and screen off the 90 but will you then loose your windscreen wipers? On my IIa they are fitted to the series screen not bulkhead.
  6. What about this one: insurers-monitor-your-driving-performance
  7. Could be starter solenoid (though you'll tend to hear a click) or the intermediate relay (IIRC some of the dash warning lights should be 'tested' when this is energised) or, as is the case with mine, the ignition switch contacts. Still living with mine as I bough the wrong switch unit
  8. I don't think there are any direct equivs Nige unless. Closest to my 35x10.5x16s would be 280r85 16 I think but that's not a size you'll find.
  9. My mistake. Just checked and mine's a '62
  10. Never needed (and never been fitted) any seatbelts on my '65 IIa
  11. Should be plenty of options for the front. The rear is more challenging with the larger diam 110 springs which tend to be spec'd for load carrying rather than lift & travel. I'd be tempted to look at changing the spring seats at the rear to use 90/Disco/RR springs or you'll most likely be looking for some custom wounds springs
  12. No, only a rather old server
  13. For any of you that have found the old spring calculator useful I have moved it to a new home on BTs server here Old one will be around for a while until I get to turn the server off.
  14. I note from your sig you already have a 1.222 so if you want higher gearing and have the tbox then go for it
  15. Ratios (3.54:1) are the same. There are many other differences between the two axles though so a complete swap as you suggest may prove easier than trying to interchange parts.
  16. Mine wasn't. Three engines IIRC
  17. Been doing it for ages mate (standing order that is) You do all realise the Google highly tuned ad engine has targeted those Esther Rantzen specifically at Nige having analysed his tales of waxoiled cats, black toes, burns and general workshop mayhem.
  18. Tom, been there and never did sort mine At the end of the day you're probably best off just getting a matched gauge/sender from vdo or the like and being done with it. I should have done it sooner.
  19. 'random fasteners' aka zip ties and gaffer tape
  20. TBH not sure of the origin of mine, it was gift I think originally sourced in Aus. I'm running a stock mil roll bar, the hood isn't designed with cut outs for the stays but the velcro fits around it ok'ish. For a replacement I've also not seen anything that fits the bill (except perhaps the expensive and slightly odd looking Exmoor Trim 3in1 hood) as they either seemed designed for the NAS cage (which I don't have) or ignore the mil hoop rear stays. Answer is probably to ring them up, All Wheel Trim sell hoods that look close and also the mil (like) hoops with rear stays, so I'd probably start there. Would also be interested in others views/experiences.
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