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LR90

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Everything posted by LR90

  1. Yes. They may top out more often with the truck sitting higher to start with and your available suspension travel will be unchanged.
  2. Ryan, I've got an adjustable hitch in the garage that came of my 90, replaced by the nato hitch ages back, that you're welcome to if it will fit?
  3. That's correct as it runs all the way to the front of your 110 through the os chassis rail. Connects to the front loom under your footwell (connection is easy enough to get at). Disconnect at the front, tie some string to the end, pull it back through the chassis from the rear. Disconnect string, attach to new loom and pull that back through the chassis.
  4. Bars free, you just need to pay his expenses to deliver it Did similar on mine but when I changed to a full fat spare it impaired visibility too much so now the bar is used to bolt the spare flat on the load bay
  5. ^^^^ and another vote for Wessex Radiators. Got a nice wide spaced core in mine
  6. Yes, though the ratios will be different
  7. Best tyre for sand is a dedicated sand tyre, Michelin XS is probably still the best available. A lot of the other tyres tend to break the surface far to easily and then you're bogged.
  8. Sorry, can't answer your Q but I'm interested to know why you might want to do this? Railko is pretty old tech but is probably more robust and provides some damping.
  9. Bulkhead with minor mods yes. Not sure about using the later gearbox tunnel though, maybe better to use yours and adapt the later bulkhead/seat box.
  10. Well think I've had my 90 for more than 10 now and certainly had the 2a for over 30! To the OP as others have said get the bulkhead galv'd. You've already made the biggest part of the investment just getting a new bulkhead and the effort of swapping the bulkhead out has to be one of the most time consuming jobs so get it galv'd now while you have the chance.
  11. Can't recall the name of the bracket buy re the pin on the steering box is smaller than the hole in said bracket that is correct and no bush is needed. The slack is to accommodate LR tolerances.
  12. Rob, is this hanging on one side or both? If droop is limited when hanging on one side I'd be looking at the radius arm to axle bushes (and fitting earlier arms, holey bushes). If you mean the whole axle doesn't drop till the springs fall out then yes I'd try with prop disconnected first as this doesn't sound right. Maybe flexible brake lines too short. Could be radius arms to chassis bushes but this doesn't seem likely.
  13. Wouldn't do this on a side slope but with a soft bank as a guide ...
  14. Firstly welcome though I feel I must point out that pics of new toys are obligatory Re the A frame forum search will give much info. Removal/refit of the A frame is quite doable but TBH I'd find someone with bigger tools than me to press out old and fit new A frame ball joint.
  15. Sounds like you have a great setup already so if that isn't coping? Stupid Q but these are fitted with lockers? Only without them the on/off drive thing can be much worse, at least lockers keep all the wheels spinning an the same rate. Some might suggest swapping out the rover drive train for something stronger. I'd speak with Ashcroft, get those diffs rebuilt/pegged/.. and then look at adding a set of their cush drives. These will help take out those peak shock loads from the on/off grip situations.
  16. are you running early (narrow) or the later (wider) radius arm bushes?
  17. Sure you haven't just lost a balance weight? Or did some debris damage the tyre (I've had this), may not be visible immediately but was not pleasant and took ages to track down. Not saying bearings/railko aren't worn but try swapping some wheels round first.
  18. FWIW I had a pair of matched Exides wired in parallel for quite a while. Worked great and gave a hell of a kick when starting the car. However, came out one day to find them like yours flat as a pancake, sub 5V on one and about 2V on the other! They never recovered and I no longer leave my batteries wired in parallel when not being used.
  19. Sorry, from the info available (mostly from your list ) the NRC8277 was just too stiff/long while the NRC8276 while a nice rate was just a tad too short. Used NRC4305s in the end for the rear which have been excellent No one one here with an dusty NRC8277 on the shelf they could go measure/photo?
  20. Well happy to give Richard's a thumbs up from first hand experience but can't comment on Designa. Re springs, build it, weigh it, and then come back for some recommendations
  21. More details here and here The 48 hours was an elapsed time from when I arrived Friday evening to driving home again Sunday evening. There were only four of us (and the dog) though we did have some visitors and even took time out to go and do a recovery. In total we put in about 87 hours. I have since swapped out some other parts but we did just what we set out to do and avoided the usual case of a chassis swap becoming a major, year long restoration.
  22. Why coilover? Sounds like you have a great base already. Swap the V8, replace the old leafs with parabolics, change the oils and have fun.
  23. Hmm, might do that too. It would replace the sticker my daughter put there that says 'sit down, hang on and shut up,..' or similar that SWMBO is less keen on.
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