C18RCH

Just spoke with Ashcroft and the confirmed the specs as follows run out < 0.1mm Backlash 0.1-0.17mm Torque settings as per their website here: https://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/frequently-asked-questions/differential-faq-s.html process essentially the same as the rover diff: https://www.landroverweb.com/Pdf-files/Manuals/Defender-90-110-workshop-manual-3.pdf (p.115 onwards)

I’m just in the process of swapping my Salisbury for a short nose diff 110 axle. there isn’t a lot left to weld together on the Salisbury, also, their input bearing seat was so badly pitted that it leaks like a sieve. Hence, swapping to a newer axle. im just trying to fin the correct settings for the axle. Being newer it seems like the settings are not readily available like the older ones. Other than that, I think if you have a dial gauge and a basic tool kit, and are fairly mechanically minded, it shouldn’t be too difficult. I’ll let you know how difficult it is in a few days.

Yeah, I love building stuff myself. My problem is I have too many other interests that take up too much time too. My landy is my farm workhorse and shooting bus, so mog axles, whilst I would love to do the, just because I could, aren’t really going to be that beneficial to me. I still might at some point. I shall be following with interest though.

Almost certainly. It’s a landy after all. however, I would say 3-5mm is within allowable tolerances.

Sounds like a bad earth in the dash to me. the horn and indicator share a common earth off the indicator stalk. I would start there. Chances are it just needs a clean up with a wire brush.

Great thread. I wanted to do this on my 110 (mog axles) but quickly realised I didn’t have the time to commit to the build. Is the second picture with the axles fitted. What does the truck look like height wise with them on? how many hours do you think it’s taken to get to this point? Rich

All, I’m just about to fit an Ashcroft ATB diff to my short nose/p38 rear axle. does anyone have the service manual or a link to it. I can’t seem to find one anywhere. alternatively, does anyone know the correct torque, runout and backlash settings are for this diff? cheers, Rich

As above if it is, then send it back. You’ll have no end of problems getting bodywork to line up if it’s twisted. It’s bad enough with a straight chassis. easy enough to measure. Get it supported evenly on a flat floor, then measure the corners and check that it’s all level relative to other parts if it. if you can’t get it all level, it’s twisted.

Yeah, I knew they were doing a consultation on it. it was that and my mate having an in service failure on a trailer tyre that made me actually think about checking. I didn’t even realise mine were as old as they are. my mates trailer tyres were 20+ years old. All of them had very bad cracks in them. there must be loads of people with low mileage vehicles or trailers that haven’t even thought about it. mine look new. No cracks, very little wear, I certainly wouldn’t have thought to change them if it wasn’t for the 10 year guidance.

My 110 has been laid up for a couple of years now. Just haven’t had the time to dedicate to keeping it going now that I have kids. However, my eldest is now starting to show an interest in it (at 2.5 years old 😁) and I have a bit more time to think about getting it back on the road. whilst going over it I realised that the tyres are 14 years old, so I’ll be changing them before putting it back into service, but it got me thinking about how long do people leave their tyres before changing them? I bought them (pro comp x-terrains) in 2008, but didn’t get the 110 on the road until 2013, then I’ve only done 9000 miles on them before I laid it up 2 years ago after it failed the MoT on relatively trivial (easily fixed) issues (Flexible brake pipes, leaking rear axle, worn suspension bushings), that I just didn’t have the time to fix at the time. The 110 will be going back on the road later this year when I have fixed the MoT fails and done a couple of mods which I’ll be posting about when I do them.

Check the connections on the indicator stalk. It's easy for them to short across. Or the indicator stalk itself could be faulty. Power provided via the hazard switch to the indicator stalk which then directs it to the appropriate side of the vehicle. The problem has to be downstream of the indicator stalk.

Cheers, will give it a try tomorrow. Suspected as much but didn't want to break them or worse snap them off inside.

Anyone? Alternatively, anyone got an up to date workshop manual? Cheers, Rich

If it is not working at all I would change the flasher relay anyway. They are not expensive and easy to swap. If that doesn't fix it then it is almost certainly the hazard switch. Changing from LED to filament bulb will almost certainly affect things. If it was an LED bulb designed to be a straight swap you should be ok but if the system was designed to take LED bulbs then it will never work with filament bulbs. They draw far more power.

I've finally got hold of a short nose diff rear axle to fit to my 110. It could do with wire brushing and a re-spray but is otherwise in very good condition. I've got it stripped down other than the ABS/Traction control sensor wires, but I cannot figure out how to remove them without breaking them. There is a plug of each of the calipers that is well and truly stuck in there. Anyone know how to remove the plugs? Cheers, Rich