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C18RCH

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C18RCH last won the day on April 20 2015

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About C18RCH

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    Sheffield

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  1. Just spoke with Ashcroft and the confirmed the specs as follows run out < 0.1mm Backlash 0.1-0.17mm Torque settings as per their website here: https://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/frequently-asked-questions/differential-faq-s.html process essentially the same as the rover diff: https://www.landroverweb.com/Pdf-files/Manuals/Defender-90-110-workshop-manual-3.pdf (p.115 onwards)
  2. I’m just in the process of swapping my Salisbury for a short nose diff 110 axle. there isn’t a lot left to weld together on the Salisbury, also, their input bearing seat was so badly pitted that it leaks like a sieve. Hence, swapping to a newer axle. im just trying to fin the correct settings for the axle. Being newer it seems like the settings are not readily available like the older ones. Other than that, I think if you have a dial gauge and a basic tool kit, and are fairly mechanically minded, it shouldn’t be too difficult. I’ll let you know how difficult it is
  3. Yeah, I love building stuff myself. My problem is I have too many other interests that take up too much time too. My landy is my farm workhorse and shooting bus, so mog axles, whilst I would love to do the, just because I could, aren’t really going to be that beneficial to me. I still might at some point. I shall be following with interest though.
  4. Almost certainly. It’s a landy after all. however, I would say 3-5mm is within allowable tolerances.
  5. Sounds like a bad earth in the dash to me. the horn and indicator share a common earth off the indicator stalk. I would start there. Chances are it just needs a clean up with a wire brush.
  6. Great thread. I wanted to do this on my 110 (mog axles) but quickly realised I didn’t have the time to commit to the build. Is the second picture with the axles fitted. What does the truck look like height wise with them on? how many hours do you think it’s taken to get to this point? Rich
  7. All, I’m just about to fit an Ashcroft ATB diff to my short nose/p38 rear axle. does anyone have the service manual or a link to it. I can’t seem to find one anywhere. alternatively, does anyone know the correct torque, runout and backlash settings are for this diff? cheers, Rich
  8. As above if it is, then send it back. You’ll have no end of problems getting bodywork to line up if it’s twisted. It’s bad enough with a straight chassis. easy enough to measure. Get it supported evenly on a flat floor, then measure the corners and check that it’s all level relative to other parts if it. if you can’t get it all level, it’s twisted.
  9. Yeah, I knew they were doing a consultation on it. it was that and my mate having an in service failure on a trailer tyre that made me actually think about checking. I didn’t even realise mine were as old as they are. my mates trailer tyres were 20+ years old. All of them had very bad cracks in them. there must be loads of people with low mileage vehicles or trailers that haven’t even thought about it. mine look new. No cracks, very little wear, I certainly wouldn’t have thought to change them if it wasn’t for the 10 year guidance.
  10. My 110 has been laid up for a couple of years now. Just haven’t had the time to dedicate to keeping it going now that I have kids. However, my eldest is now starting to show an interest in it (at 2.5 years old 😁) and I have a bit more time to think about getting it back on the road. whilst going over it I realised that the tyres are 14 years old, so I’ll be changing them before putting it back into service, but it got me thinking about how long do people leave their tyres before changing them? I bought them (pro comp x-terrains) in 2008, but didn’t get the 110 on
  11. Check the connections on the indicator stalk. It's easy for them to short across. Or the indicator stalk itself could be faulty. Power provided via the hazard switch to the indicator stalk which then directs it to the appropriate side of the vehicle. The problem has to be downstream of the indicator stalk.
  12. If it is not working at all I would change the flasher relay anyway. They are not expensive and easy to swap. If that doesn't fix it then it is almost certainly the hazard switch. Changing from LED to filament bulb will almost certainly affect things. If it was an LED bulb designed to be a straight swap you should be ok but if the system was designed to take LED bulbs then it will never work with filament bulbs. They draw far more power.
  13. If the flasher is flashing correctly when it is working then it is not the flasher relay. I'm not sure exactly what you are shorting to get it to work, but what you have described doesn't sound right at all: purple to green-red and green-white - all this is proving is the lights work This wouldn't do anything either on it's own. You would still need the indicators switched on either by the Hazard switch or the indicator stalk. Sounds like the hazard switch is faulty to me
  14. There is a simple diagram that I drew back on page 2 of this thread. Power come from the fuse box to the hazard switch out to the flasher relay then back to the hazard switch for the hazards or the column switches for the indicators. If the lights aren't flashing then it is possible that there is a sticky contact within the hazard switch providing power to the flasher relay or you have a short somewhere on the LG wire. Strange though that it is working with the windscreen wipers/washer or the heater blower motor. I could understand the rest and would lay the blame firmly at the feet of the
  15. Now sorted, the culprit, bad earth on the temp gauge. When I re-built it, I gave all the gauges their own earth to the bulkhead rather than use the earth circuit that is part of the loom. Or so I thought! I missed the temp gauge, and that was still using the earth circuit. Doh!
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