C18RCH
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Posts posted by C18RCH
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I’m just in the process of swapping my Salisbury for a short nose diff 110 axle.
there isn’t a lot left to weld together on the Salisbury, also, their input bearing seat was so badly pitted that it leaks like a sieve. Hence, swapping to a newer axle.
im just trying to fin the correct settings for the axle. Being newer it seems like the settings are not readily available like the older ones. Other than that, I think if you have a dial gauge and a basic tool kit, and are fairly mechanically minded, it shouldn’t be too difficult.
I’ll let you know how difficult it is in a few days.
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11 hours ago, Stellaghost said:
Hope that answers your questions, most people will also tell you its more about the build than anything else, there is an immense satisfaction in doing it, length of time is of no real consequence its ready when its ready regards Stephen
Yeah, I love building stuff myself. My problem is I have too many other interests that take up too much time too. My landy is my farm workhorse and shooting bus, so mog axles, whilst I would love to do the, just because I could, aren’t really going to be that beneficial to me. I still might at some point.
I shall be following with interest though.
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2 minutes ago, paime said:
but will I see fitment difficulties?
Almost certainly. It’s a landy after all.
however, I would say 3-5mm is within allowable tolerances.
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Sounds like a bad earth in the dash to me.
the horn and indicator share a common earth off the indicator stalk. I would start there. Chances are it just needs a clean up with a wire brush.
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Great thread.
I wanted to do this on my 110 (mog axles) but quickly realised I didn’t have the time to commit to the build.
Is the second picture with the axles fitted. What does the truck look like height wise with them on?
how many hours do you think it’s taken to get to this point?
Rich
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All,
I’m just about to fit an Ashcroft ATB diff to my short nose/p38 rear axle.
does anyone have the service manual or a link to it. I can’t seem to find one anywhere.alternatively, does anyone know the correct torque, runout and backlash settings are for this diff?
cheers,
Rich
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On 9/17/2020 at 10:43 PM, paime said:
I'm a little bit worried as there appears to be a slight twist in the chassis which you can just make out in those pics. Will it all settle into something more level when the engine is in and weight is applied?
As above if it is, then send it back. You’ll have no end of problems getting bodywork to line up if it’s twisted. It’s bad enough with a straight chassis.
easy enough to measure. Get it supported evenly on a flat floor, then measure the corners and check that it’s all level relative to other parts if it.
if you can’t get it all level, it’s twisted.
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On 6/29/2020 at 11:20 AM, Maverik said:
Yeah, I knew they were doing a consultation on it.
it was that and my mate having an in service failure on a trailer tyre that made me actually think about checking. I didn’t even realise mine were as old as they are.
my mates trailer tyres were 20+ years old. All of them had very bad cracks in them.
there must be loads of people with low mileage vehicles or trailers that haven’t even thought about it.
mine look new. No cracks, very little wear, I certainly wouldn’t have thought to change them if it wasn’t for the 10 year guidance.
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My 110 has been laid up for a couple of years now. Just haven’t had the time to dedicate to keeping it going now that I have kids.
However, my eldest is now starting to show an interest in it (at 2.5 years old 😁) and I have a bit more time to think about getting it back on the road.
whilst going over it I realised that the tyres are 14 years old, so I’ll be changing them before putting it back into service, but it got me thinking about how long do people leave their tyres before changing them?
I bought them (pro comp x-terrains) in 2008, but didn’t get the 110 on the road until 2013, then I’ve only done 9000 miles on them before I laid it up 2 years ago after it failed the MoT on relatively trivial (easily fixed) issues (Flexible brake pipes, leaking rear axle, worn suspension bushings), that I just didn’t have the time to fix at the time.
The 110 will be going back on the road later this year when I have fixed the MoT fails and done a couple of mods which I’ll be posting about when I do them.
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Check the connections on the indicator stalk. It's easy for them to short across. Or the indicator stalk itself could be faulty. Power provided via the hazard switch to the indicator stalk which then directs it to the appropriate side of the vehicle. The problem has to be downstream of the indicator stalk.
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Cheers, will give it a try tomorrow. Suspected as much but didn't want to break them or worse snap them off inside.
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Anyone?
Alternatively, anyone got an up to date workshop manual?
Cheers,
Rich
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If it is not working at all I would change the flasher relay anyway. They are not expensive and easy to swap. If that doesn't fix it then it is almost certainly the hazard switch.
Changing from LED to filament bulb will almost certainly affect things. If it was an LED bulb designed to be a straight swap you should be ok but if the system was designed to take LED bulbs then it will never work with filament bulbs. They draw far more power.
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I've finally got hold of a short nose diff rear axle to fit to my 110. It could do with wire brushing and a re-spray but is otherwise in very good condition.
I've got it stripped down other than the ABS/Traction control sensor wires, but I cannot figure out how to remove them without breaking them. There is a plug of each of the calipers that is well and truly stuck in there.
Anyone know how to remove the plugs?
Cheers,
Rich
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If the flasher is flashing correctly when it is working then it is not the flasher relay.
I'm not sure exactly what you are shorting to get it to work, but what you have described doesn't sound right at all:
When I Bridge purple to green-red and green-white = all good, indicator lights comes onpurple to green-red and green-white - all this is proving is the lights work
- When I Bridge purple to lightgreen and using the indicator stalk = nothing happen.
- This wouldn't do anything either on it's own. You would still need the indicators switched on either by the Hazard switch or the indicator stalk.
The hazard switch are not working and the flasher neither.Sounds like the hazard switch is faulty to me
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My tanks has a separate breather pipe at the front right corner. I have one of the extended wading kit breathers off ebay fitted to it:
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Brimmed it this morning on the way into work. Gave it some boot around the corners for good measure. Not a drop, the mod seems to be working so far.
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I did the same on my 110, just be aware that the tank has no breather so you might find (as I did) that it develops either massive negative or massive positive pressure! I had to fix a breather into the Filler neck using a push fit bulkhead fitting.
Mine already has a breather fitted.
And yes, you need the neck and a new filler cap. Don't know about the key, haven't had to fill it up yet since I did it.
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There is a simple diagram that I drew back on page 2 of this thread.
Power come from the fuse box to the hazard switch out to the flasher relay then back to the hazard switch for the hazards or the column switches for the indicators.
If the lights aren't flashing then it is possible that there is a sticky contact within the hazard switch providing power to the flasher relay or you have a short somewhere on the LG wire.
Strange though that it is working with the windscreen wipers/washer or the heater blower motor. I could understand the rest and would lay the blame firmly at the feet of the trailer socket.
They do all have a common power supply which is the Green (G) ignition live, so I would start there.
The other thing I would check is the loom itself. If you can get to it the I would separate it to see if you have a an exposed or melted wire somewhere. That's what was causing my issues initially. I repaired the damages sections but could never actually get to the bottom of the problem, it was also the final nail in the coffin for doing a full rebuild on it. When I rebuilt it I replaced the loom with a new one. Problem solved.
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Mine did this. Like you, I tried everything. The only thing that worked was only half filling the tank. I figured it was because the filler neck was pitted at the point where the seal contacts it.
I've just (this week) fitted a TD5 plastic filler neck and cap to see if it works. Once I've filled the tank up I'll let you know if it has worked. It was a fairly easy mod. All I needed was a step down (20mm to 14mm) pipe bayonet fitting:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/361002248732?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
because the return pipe on a TD5 is slightly larger, and then I fabricated a bracket where it bolts to the tub. The actual main delivery pipe needscutting down in length but is the right diameter.
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Now sorted, the culprit, bad earth on the temp gauge.
When I re-built it, I gave all the gauges their own earth to the bulkhead rather than use the earth circuit that is part of the loom. Or so I thought! I missed the temp gauge, and that was still using the earth circuit. Doh!
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Got it all back together this morning inc a new sender. Didn't replace the pump though as I'm certain it's fine. Refilled and bled it. Took it for a spin and it over heated again. Having now git an IR thermometer I measured the temp at the thermostat and the core plugs all around 65 C. Fairly happy that it's not actually overheating so kept going and it went well over max:
Measured the thermostat and core plugs again:
So back to the drawing board I think. Having pushed it that bit further, I'm now getting some heat in the bottom hose. Going to check the earth on the gauge next I think. Can't think of anything else it could be.
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Thanks for the replies gents. Think there's plenty there for me to be working on. Just ordered an ir thermometer so, I'll give that a try and see what temperatures im actually getting.
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I've replace the thermostat already. Failing that being faulty or installed incorrectly, it must be something else. However, sender faults don't seem to fit with the lack of flow through the radiator.
Short nose diff re-build
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Just spoke with Ashcroft and the confirmed the specs as follows
run out < 0.1mm
Backlash 0.1-0.17mm
Torque settings as per their website here:
https://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/frequently-asked-questions/differential-faq-s.html
process essentially the same as the rover diff:
https://www.landroverweb.com/Pdf-files/Manuals/Defender-90-110-workshop-manual-3.pdf
(p.115 onwards)