C18RCH

Got the water pump off tonight. I'm no expert by any means but it looks absolutely fine to me. There's no movement in the bearings, they didn't leak, the impeller looks in good condition and there were no blockages. What should I be looking for, or can a small amount of wear cause it to work incorrectly? Cheers, Rich

So I changed the thermostat this weekend. Flushed the system for good measure too. Re filled the coolant and took it for a spin. Same problem. Overheating at high speeds. So I checked the old thermostat in a pan of water (while the wife wasn't looking ?) worked perfectly. Investigated further and now I'm convinced its the water pump and not electrical. The bottom of the rad is stone cold which suggests to me no coolant flow. So that's the next thing on the shopping list. I will let you know how I get on.

Radiator is brand new. Will check the thermostat as the diagnosis above seems to fit what I'm observing to be happening. With respect to the temp sender 200tdi - 2.5TD compatability I thought it was an issue with the gauge, not the sender? Ie the gauge fitted to the 2.5TD reads slightly hot for 200Ttdi's? The 200tdi engine I have is a defender spec 11L.

I have a 110 2.5TD with a retrofitted 200tdi. I am aware of the problem that exists whereby the 200tdi sender is not compatible with the older temperature gauge and therefore reads slightly hot most of the time. However, just recently, every so often, it’s reading very hot ie off the scale occasionally. Usually this happens for a couple of minutes and usually whilst going uphill on the motorway and then it returns to its slightly hot normal position. I also have an x-eng fan system fitted. As per the instructions this is fitted on the return hose and never comes on. When the temp goes into the red, I have immediately pulled on the hard shoulder to check it and usually the bottom hose is stone cold, and the top hose is no warmer than would be expected, certainly not as hot as the gauge would imply. This has only just started happening which is what has me worried. Previously it only ever ran at the slightly hot position. So my question is, is it actually overheating due to a local hotspot or sticky thermostat or something else I haven’t thought of, or is it just the gauge playing up? Should the bottom hose be stone cold, is the pump working correctly? Cheers, Rich

Which one did you use in the end? I have had exactly the same problem with my 110 (its also a 110 van of the same age). I was going to fit an adjustable bias valve to solve the problem but I've just managed to get hold of a 110 short nose rover type axle with disk brakes, so I was going to fit that and see if the problem still exists with the new axle. I suspect if anything it wil make it worse.

Don't even waste your time trying to get them in without a hydraulic press. I have access to a relatively small bench mounted one and they were a bit of a struggle with that. As above you need to support the chassis if you take both radius arms off. I did both mine at the same time with the chassis jacked up with a wooden beam under the bumper outriggers and axle stand under the chassis legs as belt and braces. Make sure you support the chassis on wooden block acroos the width of the chassis rail though. An axle stand in the misddle could quite easily dent it it is got the weight of the landy on it.

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=62485&hl=

And this is where the grey starts. Cue contradictory gov advice sheet: http://www.direct.gov.uk/prod_consum_dg/groups/dg_digitalassets/@dg/@en/@motor/documents/digitalasset/dg_067672.pdf Except for category B1, all weights quoted for the relevant vehicles relate to the ‘Maximum Authorised Mass’ (MAM). This is the total weight of the vehicle when ‘laden’ (loaded). Where we refer to an ‘unladen weight’, this means the weight when not carrying a load. Motor vehicle with a MAM of up to 3,500kg, no more than eight passenger seats with or without a trailer – weighing no more than 750kg. As category B but with a trailer weighing more than 750kg. The total weight of the vehicle and trailer together can’t weigh more than 3500kg. The weight of the trailer, when fully loaded, can’t weigh more than the unladen weight of the vehicle. If all weights quoted for the relevant vehicles relate to MAM then The total weight of the vehicle and trailer together can’t weigh more than 3500kg MAM. This one also adds the weight of the trailer, when fully loaded, can’t weigh more than the unladen weight of the vehicle. Or put differently the MAM of the trailer can’t weigh more than the unladen weight of the vehicle. So for your average 90 if the MAM of the trailer is more than 1700kgs (ish) it’s not allowed. The problem is wherever you look the advice is conflicting and you only need the officer on the day to interpret it differently and it causes all sorts of problems.

MAM is Maximum Authorised Mass. Ie the Mass the rig is capable of towing: https://www.gov.uk/towing-with-car/driving-licence-rules-and-what-you-can-tow If you passed your driving test after 1 January 1997 and have an ordinary category B (car) licence, you can: · drive a vehicle up to 3.5 tonnes or 3,500kg MAM towing a trailer of up to 750kg MAM so if you tow a trailer with a MAM of 3500kgs behind a defender you are exceeding the 3500kg MAM by the weight of the defender and anything in it, and therefore breaking the law whether the rig actually exceeds 3500kgs or not. I know because I found out the hard way. EU Tacho requirements: I’ve highlighted the important bits including the grey areas which are relevant to most with regard to the exemptions. If you are heavier or capable of being heavier that 3500kgs you need a tacho unless one of the exemptions apply. https://www.gov.uk/drivers-hours/goods-vehicles Goods vehicles The rules that apply to goods vehicles depend on the weight of your vehicle, the country you’re driving in and what you’re using the vehicle for. EU rules EU rules apply if: · the maximum permissible weight of your vehicle/vehicle combination is more than 3.5 tonnes Exemptions from EU law Some types of vehicle are exempt from EU rules. This means that they come under GB Domestic rules in the UK. The main types of vehicle that are exempt include: · vehicles that can’t go faster than 40 kilometres per hour, including vehicles that are restricted by a set speed limiter · emergency aid vehicles - vehicles used in the non-commercial transport of humanitarian aid for use in emergencies or rescue operations · breakdown vehicles - specialised breakdown vehicles working within a 100km of their base · vehicles undergoing road tests for technical development, repair or maintenance purposes, and new or rebuilt vehicles which have not yet been put into service · non-commercial vehicles under 7.5 tonnes - for example a person moving house or goods carried by a non-profit making group or registered charity · vehicles manufactured more than 25 years ago · vehicles with between 10 to 17 seats used exclusively for non-commercial passengers, eg minibuses used by voluntary and community groups · vehicles used by agricultural, horticultural, forestry, farming or fishery businesses for carrying goods within 100km of where the business is based · vehicles that are used to carry live animals between a farm and a market, or from a market to a slaughterhouse where the distance is less than 50km · vehicles that are used to carry animal waste or carcasses that are not intended for human consumption · educational vehicles, eg play buses and mobile libraries · vehicles or combinations of vehicles with a maximum permissible weight of 7.5 tonnes or less that are used for carrying work equipment for the driver · vehicles driven only on islands whose area does not exceed 2,300km2 · vehicles with a maximum weight of 7.5 tonnes which use natural or liquefied gas or electricity as fuel and carry goods within 50km from their base · driving instruction or exams - vehicles used for driving instruction and examination. Includes instruction for renewal of Driver Certificate of Professional Competence (CPC) · circus vehicles - specialised vehicles transporting circus and funfair equipment · milk collection - vehicles used for collecting milk from farms or returning milk containers or milk products for animal feed to farms · any vehicle that was manufactured more than 25 years from the occasion on which it is being driven · any vehicle that is propelled by steam

which bit?

Do the bilge extracter fan mod from the tech archive. It is awesome, a fan that actually works.

Just to confuse things even further, if your train weight exceeds 3500kgs and it is for business purposes then you are supposed to have a tacho fitted. There are some loopholes but these are grey areas too. Also, the post 97 licenses work on the capability of your rig and to what you are actually towing. If you tow a trailer which weighs 1000kgs but which is capable of holding another 2500kgs, even though it is empty you are still breaking the law because you are capable of exceeding 3500kgs MAM and it is viewed in the law that your intention is to do so.

Have you worked out what sort of weight it has added to the landy yet? I'm considering something similar for mine but my only concern is the additiional weight added for the once or twice a year that I would actually use it as a camper.

No, mine is NRC7871 but what I meant was that the master cylinder and brake pipe layout was different from those pictured. Mine are like this: http://www.landroverworkshop.com/diagrams/braking-systems/hoses-pipes/front-rear-drums_52924#3 May try reducing the pressures in the rears. I think I am running at 35 ish anyway but they are same front and back.

Thats a different set up to my 110 altogether. Mine is more like the one on page 494 of the 110 parts manual (Sorry, can't put pictures up at work). I already have the PDWA fitted but it still doesn't help. I'm planning on fitting somthing more like this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Brake-Bias-Valve-Screw-Type-Rally-Proportion-Adjustable-Prop-Adjuster-Track-Car-/161046686763?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item257f216c2b#ht_1718wt_1111

Viscous over cool the engine when it's not needed (high revs high speed motorway etc) and don't cool the engine when it is (stationary on tickover), most of the time anyway. When they go, they go spectacularly and usually take everything around them with them. Yes they are more powerful and move more air but that is at the cost of mpg and power, and slower getting the engine/heater to temp. Electric fans hardly ever fail in my experience (good ones anyway) they work only when required and improve power and mpg. My TD5 went from 28mpg to 32mpg just by removing the viscous fan. It was noticably more responsive too. I cannot comment on the mpg change on my current 200tdi because the first thing I did when back on the road was throw the viscous fan away. It again though, was noticably more responsive without the viscous fan. When electric fans do fail, they just stop working. No damage to anything. I don't see how the fins can damage the radiator unless they are mounted incorrectly. Mine are wired up with a permenent on option to test if they are working which I test if I am going to be working the engine hard or it is a particularly hot day. I've run a landy of some form or another with electric fans for 10 years. In the UK they never come on, even off roading and towing (admittedly my off roading is only muddy fields and the odd salisbury plain outing). I dare say you could, as some people have suggested, get away with not having a fan at all in the UK but I'm not willing to risk that. These threads are always interesting. Where's that popcorn

I run one for exactly the reason you intend to. The wireless ones don't need anything. Not sure about the wired ones. You set them up with a PC and then they use an email account to send emails once the motion detection is activated. I set up a spare hotmail account for mine to use. As long as the camera has your wirless password and the password for the email account you wish to send emails from, it is stand alone. You can get them to email themselves so that you are not spamming your usual email account every 2 seconds. They are very sensitive, whilst you can adjust the sensitivity, in reality even shadows set them off. However, set up to email themselves, you only need to check them if you suspect something suspicious.

That was my plan:

The main body of the tube is steel and I was planning on welding the baffles in quite low down, so I would have thought even if the top is soldered there wouldn't be enough heat to affect it?

The tank has baffles, just not the filler. Got an extension tube on order now. I'll see if it does the trick. If not I'll probably weld some baffles into that rather than potenially messing up the actual filler. Thanks for the replies gents. Rich

It is definately coming out of the cap key hole. It may be coming out elsewhere too, but I think some sort of baffle device would solve it. If I can't find anything suitable I may weld something in there myself (obviously whilst not still conected to a full fuel tank! )

Could someone with a pre TD5 fill have a look and see if their filler has bffles in it or not? Or even better take a pic? Cheers, Rich

Where are you getting them from? I had a look at something similar but the price of them was still to high. 5 euros isn't too bad.

Braking, off rading, accelerating and hills all cause it too

1988