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BigBlue90

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Everything posted by BigBlue90

  1. Right, BigBlues going to have a nice visit to Nene overland. Thanks for the help guys but I've had it with problems after 5 months of an immobile 90. Let you guys know what it was when they fix it.
  2. That's what I'm thinking now, I've looked it over more, it's not pressurising in the coolant system like it should. The pipes stay soft and the gauge claims it's overheating in under a mile. Can this be a seal? Pressure cap, sender faulty, pipes perished? I think a replacement of the pipes, rad plastic screw top and header tank cap will do something, if not that I can't see what it is as practically everything is new.
  3. Ok guys it's not the thermostat and it's not the sensor. How do I un-airlock a tdi?
  4. Well, in a young chaps opinion, I don't care where the things built in all honesty, India has a better economy than us so it was going to happen anyway. I think it's a new way of thinking for the old defender range and I'll welcome this new looking thing into my garage... next to my 90TDI of course I just hope they do a pickup! And actually stick SDV6 and SDV8's in this time!
  5. I made sure there's a very good earth on the block, nice new long strap direct to chassis.
  6. It's all original defender engine, no disco conversions, thermostats an 88 wax stat and the temp sensor and gauge are all correct. I have noticed just tonight that when I ran it and stood it again to try diagnose the thing, the engine was hot as usual and the rad was cold. I opened the top bolt on the rad, no steam, cold water. But when I lightly squeezed the bottom hose, steaming hot bubbling water appears and the rad and pipes begin to warm up, not a lot but warm. I think the new pump from a year ago that the old owner put on was am aftermarket and it's had it, what do you guys reckon? It seems that the water just hasn't moved from the engine so surely it's a duff pump? It can't be anything more can it??
  7. Hi guys, rebuilt my engine after a heavy smoking problem, smoking now gone and running as usual. Unfortunately, the temp gauge climbs way too fast and gets to the top of the gauge within only two or three miles of flat, straight fen road driving. It's really strange, I've filled the radiator up and it shows the normal level in the header tank and the thermostat is new and genuine (the second thermostat since the rebuild) I first tried taking the thermostat out and it stayed at quarter temp on the gauge while driving a few miles but once it was back in it climbed way too fast again. No steam or anything coming from the bonnet. Whole engine was stripped and rebuilt, head gasket was done properly and head torqued correctly. Oil level holding normal, water level doesn't really move even after gauge shows overheating. Fan belts are new and it's on a viscous fan at the moment. Water pump is a year old. Radiator has no visible damage and it's not done any of this overheating before. What's up with it??
  8. Engine rebuilt and running!

  9. Hi guys! Hate to start on an old thread, I've finally gotten round to getting it sorted now. Removed the engine, stripped it right down and checking for broken or worn parts as i go (so far just the starters knackered) and I've stopped at the crank and pistons in the block. So just a block, nothing on it, pistons and crank are still on. I thought to test the pistons and rings with a little fluid test, Levelled the pistons off to one height to see a difference from on to the other and put around an inch of diesel in each, now after an hour 1 and 3 have gone down to the tops of the pistons, i think 4 is sort of down a bit (might just be me!) and 2 hasn't really moved at all. What's this mean?? Are they busted or is 1,3 and 4 healthy and 2 is bad being it holds its drink. Looking at it tho, kind of explains the symptoms doesn't it? White smoke, rough running and oil throughout the turbo and intake system? (via rocker hose) Get back to me on any ideas guys, I mean I'm building the engine from scratch so it hasn't got a choice if its going to run or not! but just worth asking about the pistons to at least know whats been causing the problem. Oh and any tips on what to replace and what not to if rebuilding a 200tdi would be much appreciated!
  10. Time for a new engine...

  11. I get where your coming from but I have a turbo on the way out, duff steering pump, duff starter and ofcourse the engine itself. It's easier to just swap engines tbh, it's cheaper and I reckon it'd be more reliable if I grabbed a low mileage 200.
  12. Well that's all great help, but can't I just remove my duff tdi with everything on it, put in the disco one with everything on, connect up the loom (with either proper defender or discovery connectors), buy converter kits for intake/exhaust pipes for a proper fit with little modifying and connect up the steering pump from the disco to the defender system? I don't want a defender 200 in there anyway I much prefer the looks of a disco 200. So basically, does the flywheel and clutch from a disco engine go on a defender box? Can I fit the disco steering pump and make it work on he defender. And will I need a plate to mount it on the defender box??
  13. Many many things are wrong with my engine! Duff turbo, excessive smoking and rough running from some unknown but irritating internal problem after a run in some deep water with no snorkel and a duff steering pump and she has 180k on the clock too, so really I figured why not just swap it out for a younger one. So is the wiring the same??
  14. hi guys, turns out my 200tdi defender engines buggered. So I'm wondering, how hard is it to put a 200tdi disco engine into a defender?? What do I need to do?? What's different because as far as I can tell, they look nearly identical apart from a few minor things here and there. Also- I'm looking for a decent, low mileage, totally nothing wrong with it 200tdi engine so if you have anything, speak up!!
  15. Nope, still doing it. Clean fuel in a bottle onto the injection pump and it smokes the same.
  16. Ill give it a go tomorrow, what's does it mean if it works??
  17. Ok I re did the timing belt properly this time! Locked the flywheel and the pump, cam in correct position, belt on and tensioned it. Didn't assemble the front of the engine this time before having a go starting it and it's now running much smoother but snot quite itself yet, very very slight misfire under power but I haven't messed with the front of the injector pump to sort that yet, but it's still smoking like hell. But only white smoke, there's no coolant in the engine at all and slight white smoke is coming out the top hose port on the engine. Now what??
  18. Right, so this does nothing to benefit the engine performance wise or health of it what so ever. So it's basically just for noise, nothing else.
  19. Hi guys, Got a good question for you all. Is it worth it to install a dump valve on my new turbo? Now I know the valve lets off excess pressure so it's gotta help the life of it? But does it have any downsides?? Is it easy to put on and set up properly?
  20. Ok I'll give it a go feed the pump with a bottle, see if its any better. If not then its gotta be my own daft fault not locking the flywheel properly!
  21. I reckon I didn't tension the belt properly and the crank was ever so slightly out of place. And i know its not fuel, drained the tank and flushed it through with clean before I did the belt change. I'll buy a locking pin kit and report back! It's all a learning curve really, I quite like learning by my mistakes instead of getting it right first time actually, much better than being told the easy way!
  22. Yeah see it's not really mainly road going, if it sees a field it's more than likely going to drive across it lol I reckon to avoid maintaining the handbrake so much I'll treat myself to a disc kit.
  23. Hi guys! My handbrake keeps jamming up every time mud makes an appearance... Which is better. Fitting a disc conversion or have a drum handbrake? Because I'm not sure if keeping the drum and cleaning it all the time is worth it. Are discs any better??
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