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the-lase-rate

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  1. Cool thanks for that. I'll give a silicone one a go this time round. Cheers.
  2. Hi all, I replaced the breather pipe about 18 months ago (part no: ERR7340 , now superseded by LLH500170) and recently I found that it was swollen and kinked and was probably not letting much gas through at all. As a makeshift I cut about 1inch length off the pipe so that it was free again. I think it was a bearmach replacement. Just wondering if this is normal, and would it make sense to get a genuine or silicone pipe this time round? Cheers, Luke
  3. Yes its just low down in the revs but more so under load, yet in 1st or 5th its absolutely fine. The gearbox is a recon from Ashcroft so I'm not suspecting that. You could be right about the engine mounts though - are they just a different rubber compound? I'll get another (non wide angle) propshaft on order and see what difference that makes. It isn't a huge problem as I can just avoid that part of the torque band but I'd like to preempt any possible failures related to it - such as the propshaft that was on its way out.. Thanks.
  4. The vibration is only there under throttle, but if you put your foot to the floor it is reduced considerably.. Its as if you get through the resonance quicker?! There is some play in the splines of the shaft itself which I guessed was game over for it? Rear shaft is fine though - no movement at all. Thanks for the reply.
  5. Hi all, Looking for some advice on suspension/propshaft please? My vehicle: 1986 110 300tdi conversion with R380 stumpy. I have a resonant vibration in 3rd,4th at low revs which led me to suspect the propshafts. I found out the suspension might have been raised slightly (front springs c. 300mm, rear springs c. 340mm?) but propshafts are originals. The front prop has a tiny bit of movement in the UJs and when I removed it from the vehicle a circlip flew out and hit me on the head! I took it for a short drive with the diff locked and the vibration had decreased a little (but not gone completely). So I am wondering whether to buy new springs to return to original height, and get a standard replacement propshaft or just buy a wide angle front propshaft (FRC8390WA) - both routes would appear to cost around the same. Am I right in thinking the rear prop is less sensitive to suspension change? Any thoughts? Thanks very much, Luke
  6. In the interest of continuity, I have finally installed a new turbo unit and both whistle and flat spot in power seem to have disappeared. Thanks to all for advice. I saw no damage to turbo other than the blades being in bad condition, not sure where else it would show? Is there anywhere that would refurbish a turbo? I'm sure someone who knew what they were doing would have a use for it... I don't really want to keep it lying around!
  7. I'd be curious too... I'll report back when I can get it off in the next few weeks!
  8. I'll have a look into them. Thanks for the reply guys. Luke
  9. Oh no. I hope you're wrong too... I know very little about turbos. Are they repairable or is it best to just replace the unit?
  10. Hi all, Haven't posted for a while, hope all are well. Looking for some advice on my turbo whistle - I thought is was normal at first but it is so loud even with some bonnet insulation. 3rd gear up a hill at 30 conversation is not really possible, and it corresponds with a flat spot in the power range. The whistle is more throttle dependent than rev dependent. I've checked all the silicone intercooler pipes for splits and they're fine. I've had the inlet manifold off to check the gasket and there is a little soot around the exhaust manifold so I'll replace that when I can. Also one of the fins on the turbo inlet (from air intake - pictured) has a little nick in it - could this also be a problem? Is there anything else I should consider? Thanks in advance. Luke
  11. Great. Thanks. I prefer fixing things rather than just getting rid of it. Cheaper too
  12. All the wiring looks fine, I suspect its the diodes or something... So, I am planning to order a new alternator and probably a 100amp one as in the future I am planning to split charge to two batteries. I've read elsewhere that I would need to double up the brown wire to the starter motor is that correct? Are there any other changes that I should do at the same time? Cheers, Luke
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