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Everything posted by pete3000

  1. Depending on the model/year the usual suspect is the VC/IRD, a lot that are up for sale have the rear prop removed. Could be there is a temp sensor which is telling you when to give up and let it cool down. Hence the limited rev range? https://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/freelander-parts.html Obviously the dragging brake pad/caliper won't help
  2. I cut 18mm from each side on my lt77 seatbox to allow the r380 wright off road matting to fit. rounded the corner cut with a file to avoid a stress fracture. I put an r380 in years ago but trimmed up the face of the seatbox.
  3. The only other thought is the notes were lighter (worn down) or wrong paper (counterfeit). So maybe don't look too close?. Just a thought.
  4. hit it with landrover hammer no.5 🤠
  5. have a look on youtube "solar ice maker". For now i'm just enjoying breaking it in on the mains. I've clocked 2x 12v 100w panels doing 160w so 80w peak each. May need to tweak with more panels.
  6. Dometic cdf36 here, only 12/24v power option, but was cheaper and a bit lighter than the mains/dc version. Figured if you wanted to run it off the mains you can get an adapter brick from amazon for the job for around £20-25. Pulls around 3.5A when compressor is on, which isn't often if you can put it in a sensible shaded tent or under the landy if you are with it. Aim is to run it and an ice maker off 4x 100w solar panels and 24v inverter. The desktop ice makers are £130 and pull around 230v@95w once the compressor is started. Pete
  7. this should be your first point of reference, followed by lrworkshop.com Pete
  8. You should have form 654 decomissioning document? From there a google search suggests v55/4 form From hmvf forum.......When the vehicle was sold off from the MoD it will have been issued with a Form 654 "application for disposal of a cast vehicle' which enables you to register it for the roads. Before attempting to register the vehicle you will need to have insurance and a valid MOT. Both of these can be done on the chassis number. You will then need to take these, the 654 and a filled out V55/4 to the local DVLA office. You will need to pay the registration fee which is around £50 and pay for 6 or 12 months road tax at the same time.
  9. Several setups https://www.gooutdoors.co.uk/15895048/campingaz-camp-bistro-2-portable-gas-stove-15895048/?istCompanyId=c2ec8a5d-93c1-4850-a97a-f4d89d7c99c8&istFeedId=2755fba0-7dfe-46a9-bfd0-09b37aed8b93&istItemId=iiiqlilrt&istBid=t&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIk-fPuLrC8QIVirh3Ch2wgQrsEAQYAiABEgJ0EPD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds when you need something for a cuppa or a quick meal. The butane refils are cheap and plentiful. (aldi/lidl/supermarkets). No mess no faff. For an upgrade especially if you have petrol cans coleman sportster 533 (petrol) and a 5 or 10L petrol jerrycan. A full tank on the stove will typically last 2 days or so. Blow moulded case is useful. Will fit in the undeseat box of the 110then for family camping or extended stays the coleman 424 stove (petrol again). 1 main burner and 1 simmer/keepwarm. lid and sides are windshields. The tank/pressure assembly removes to refill. once your hooked, the the coleman 282 or 285 lanterns are brilliant additions (no pun). The petrol vs calor gas is available anywhere, spares (washers/mantles) are plentiful and can be kept in a plastic tub. Pete
  10. Something not quite right with that 10 way plug Chambo, went and checked mine over. Same as Westerns, 2x 4way connectors and the slate/white and green/black 2 way on the end. Red/Slate is to do with ABS or engine management light Slate/Red is transmission temp warning light
  11. Bought mine from Adrenalin 4x4 on ebay, quick service and price. Noticed the new rubber bushes that came with the ES9000 shocks are perishing and splitting after less than 6 months front and back, so neeed to order some superpro shock bushes. Backs are easy enough but the fronts are a PITA Pete
  12. On my new YRM 3mm tub floor i used countersunk blind rivets, drill for 5mm and then a countersink bit, leaves it flush and neat. Pete
  13. Depending on the model you've most likely lost the earth to the sender, causing the gauge to over read. although you shouldn't see anything at all when ignition is off as the green (and black) wires which power the gauge are on the ignition feed. The green/black trace then goes to the sender which is then shorted to earth when empty and rises in resistance when full to around 300 ohms.
  14. There are some decent metric tap and die sets at Arceurotrade and the Presto metric ones off the bay. RDG otherwise for the imperial stuff. Worth getting the tapping drills to match. I bought a cheap aldi tap/die set and they wouldn't start a thread but were ok for cleaning. Pete
  15. Get something like this for around a fiver, i've found mine useful especially with mixed threads (metric/imperial) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/184332633337?epid=17039152137&hash=item2aeb14c4f9:g:7XsAAOSw32Ve2Jr2 Pete
  16. T-wash, galv etch primer, then rustoleum 7300 satin black. The aerosol 7300 did a better adhesion job than the brush/roller application from the tin. The 7300 seems to be everything that Hammerite isn't these days. POR-15 is good for rough rusty bits? (not shiny new galv?) 🙂 Pete
  17. I'd guess at the wrong thread? the blanking plug for the 562748 sedimentor is listed as 517689 and the matching union nut for a series 2.25 is 517690. Can you compare the threads on a blanking port against your pipe fittings? could be 1/2" unf Pete
  18. To avoid work for yourself later on make sure the fuel return pipe/plate is sealed as well as possible around the 6? fixing screws and cork gasket on top of the tank. I had issues with mine if i brimmed the tank and believe Western had with the holes for the screws not being blind holes. i.e the diesel wicks up the thread past the screws. There was a thread on here somewhere. edit found it: Pete
  19. Yes, stops the bolts pushing back up when you are struggling to hold the tank and start the nuts whilst using your 3rd hand to align the bushes. 🙂
  20. On my newer chassis build it sits here. On the 2.5NAD setup it was right next to the fuel sender pickup on the fuel tank. 300 tdi front fuel pipes were shortened to connect to the td5 sedimentor.
  21. And a top tip to save aggro is the unf half nuts which secure the leaf spring bushes must be removed/wound off first. The unf bolts are threaded into the chassis drop brackets and the drop pivot bracket. Fun once you know.... Pete
  22. Did a quick search and tracked the following down, https://www.nsncenter.com/FSC/2530?PageNumber=252 ctrl+f for the 64373808PH and 64373798PH part numbers allows you to google the NSN which returns https://www.thexmod.com/item_detail.asp?id=1668 or STC2796. So yes series based brakes. The bearings are easy enough as the timken 359S is stamped in.
  23. If you can't recover the nut in one piece let me know i may still have the one off my old tank/sender. No promises though. From memory it's a coarser thread than the FIP nuts. NRC9770 or 603431. Pete
  24. Why not fit a metal sender unit to your tank? then recover the nut from the broken piece in the photo and fit to sender. Add a new olive to the metal sender pipe and job done. PRC8463 is the early sender. Olive NRC9771? Pete
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