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pete3000

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Posts posted by pete3000

  1. Could the idler or a better one be found amongst the Austin/Rover stables variety of (Perkins)? diesel engines. Just wondering as they seem to reuse lots of parts then out of the blue use something which costs a fortune and fits nothing else. ^_^

  2. Put your location in your Profile Tom? some one may be able to pop round and have a look with you.

    Chances are you have something not quite back in the same place i.e may have an arm or washer on the wrong side. Or could be your replacement alternator has a slightly different casing or is not to spec causing the cracking when you try and close the gap (there shouldn't be any gaps ideally). You should have a long bolt as the pivot through two points (this should be packed with spacers inside the flanges so not to cause squashing effect on tightening up). This shouldnt do anything else than location so shouldn't be mega tight at all. The other shorter bolt should only act to stop rotation or spacing via a distance strap, with a sliding link action.

  3. Should be 2 oil seals (inner and outer), one either side of the taper bearings, gave me 3 or four possible numbers when looking at my front axle as being an 85/86 axle it could be late series or early defender. Found out RTC3511? is the pretty universal seal off the RR classic which is a nice fit front and rear inside and outside now.

  4. Spares good to have at hand, at least 1 wheel bearing kit, and prop uj kit.

    length of diesel leakoff tubing, and a short length of brake pipe. (can be used for leakoff pipes or bleeding brakes)

    a selection of spare fluids along with a cheap 1/2" drive socket set and a 27mm spanner and a T55/1/2" socket.

    greasegun and LM grease, copperease

    spare aux belt in the vehicle, along with bulbs.

    • Like 1
  5. Aux belt (two types) one is 15mm longer if you have bigger diameter alt pulley.

    Aux tensioner is probably making the squeak noise, you can buy a new assembly if you pinpoint this bearing as faulty

    or there was a writeup on just changing the offending bearing with some diy butchery skills.

    Give it a spin without the belt on or feel if theres any play in it by twisting.

    Only other jobs for me would be to change the p gasket on the waterpump if it's fibre or leaky,

    and bin the plastic rad cap and thermostat cap and replace with metal items which take a socket

    • Like 1
  6. Lol, thanks. well due to the drive down there or good luck i had a miniscule amount of screen wash out of old pump. I tried MJA who open at 8 and were very helpful and could have me an express part by lunchtime. I then tried mm4x4 and they luckily opened at 0830 and had one in stock, which mean with warp drive enabled (downhill most of way) i managed to get there with a couple of minutes to spare with the new part ready to go on.

    The good news is it Passed = clean sheet. Not bad as she's 30 years old this year.

    • Like 1
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