pete3000
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Posts posted by pete3000
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https://www.thexmod.com/item_detail.asp?id=11204
not sure if this is britpart £60
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Would DC's water pump housing fit from this thread, he ordered a non-viscous by accident. Not sure if it will fit or he still has it and wants to part with it. Or at least had a source and a number.?
http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=98823&page=9
Pete
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MUC1031 (not 1301).
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Could the idler or a better one be found amongst the Austin/Rover stables variety of (Perkins)? diesel engines. Just wondering as they seem to reuse lots of parts then out of the blue use something which costs a fortune and fits nothing else.
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We need pictures love to see this work in progress.
Pete
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JCB pod lights bolted to bumper? or similar? you'd have to do both sides though.
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Is it a defender or disco engine 200tdi?
Part showing as RTC5682N 45A for std, or could use STC234 or RTC5680 65A units, for defender 11L.
or if it's a disco engine RTC5681N for 12L. Not sure of differences maybe worth looking into
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Put your location in your Profile Tom? some one may be able to pop round and have a look with you.
Chances are you have something not quite back in the same place i.e may have an arm or washer on the wrong side. Or could be your replacement alternator has a slightly different casing or is not to spec causing the cracking when you try and close the gap (there shouldn't be any gaps ideally). You should have a long bolt as the pivot through two points (this should be packed with spacers inside the flanges so not to cause squashing effect on tightening up). This shouldnt do anything else than location so shouldn't be mega tight at all. The other shorter bolt should only act to stop rotation or spacing via a distance strap, with a sliding link action.
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Should be 2 oil seals (inner and outer), one either side of the taper bearings, gave me 3 or four possible numbers when looking at my front axle as being an 85/86 axle it could be late series or early defender. Found out RTC3511? is the pretty universal seal off the RR classic which is a nice fit front and rear inside and outside now.
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Should be going off the axle number, as it's the component which is the fixed standard. However i'd buy both types as they are a couple of quid then make a note of correct one in the front of your service book/haynes book of lies. (along with other useful numbers like the aux belt number, brake pads and calipers etc.
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Yes the assembly is around £30-45 ish although a bearing is around £5-10.
vid of bearing change
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only matters for abs? however when i did my disc conversion i left the thicker meaty part of the stub axle underneath to give a better bearing land, with the flat on the top as best as i could.
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Spares good to have at hand, at least 1 wheel bearing kit, and prop uj kit.
length of diesel leakoff tubing, and a short length of brake pipe. (can be used for leakoff pipes or bleeding brakes)
a selection of spare fluids along with a cheap 1/2" drive socket set and a 27mm spanner and a T55/1/2" socket.
greasegun and LM grease, copperease
spare aux belt in the vehicle, along with bulbs.
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Aux belt (two types) one is 15mm longer if you have bigger diameter alt pulley.
Aux tensioner is probably making the squeak noise, you can buy a new assembly if you pinpoint this bearing as faulty
or there was a writeup on just changing the offending bearing with some diy butchery skills.
Give it a spin without the belt on or feel if theres any play in it by twisting.
Only other jobs for me would be to change the p gasket on the waterpump if it's fibre or leaky,
and bin the plastic rad cap and thermostat cap and replace with metal items which take a socket
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Theres another orange coglike symbol a bit further along for the pto? shaft drive. Got same on my mil 86. Must have been using old stock up on exmil contracts. try a torch behind the non-legend bulb holders
edit: theres also a 24v light?
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Lol, thanks. well due to the drive down there or good luck i had a miniscule amount of screen wash out of old pump. I tried MJA who open at 8 and were very helpful and could have me an express part by lunchtime. I then tried mm4x4 and they luckily opened at 0830 and had one in stock, which mean with warp drive enabled (downhill most of way) i managed to get there with a couple of minutes to spare with the new part ready to go on.
The good news is it Passed = clean sheet. Not bad as she's 30 years old this year.
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Tal yeah had considered taking it out and blasting it with wd40 or a jet of water and trying to spin up the impeller. But I'll probably lose 5L of screenwash once pump is pulled and knowing my luck break something else in the process
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Don't have a rear wash wipe, did consider borrowing one from p38 but no sure way to see if it is same part. Hoping MJA have one in as they open at 8am, fingers crossed.
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Any ideas for a fix? the voltage is getting to the washer pump and the interior lights are dimming slightly so it's taking current etc. Think the shaft is seized although it worked fine a week back.
Where to buy in around Redditch who open at 8am? do Halfords keep them?
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look like the antiburst type latches off military 1980's vintage, l/h muc1031
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ooooo nice will keep an eye out
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i'm interested in the ski rack brackets, 1 of each shape (one has horiz holes one has vertical). Bars not so important other than length would be nice to know.
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200 Tdi Timing Belt Oddness
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
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Aldi have some on specialbuy on Thurs £70. Along with drill bits, grinding wheels and tool chests etc.