pete3000
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Posts posted by pete3000
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Which springs do you have FF? I am running britpart (don't start)....... yellow (painted black) HD DA4208 +40mm at the back with LR oem wolf hd front drivers side springs x2 at the front.
Ride is rock hard at back, but needs these for the 500kgs+ of load some of which is in the wolf roll cage (nice and high), squashes most of the 40mm back down with a full load on.
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do i get a prize?
http://www.eurogroup.gb.com/Section%201=%20Aqualarms%20and%20Probes.pdf
Aqua20-8
page 1.2
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Think i've mentioned before, the stainless braided hoses are bling but a source of problems on my 110. I trashed the rear one by clamping it. (You can't as they don't like it).
The fronts could never get a good pedal. swapped to standard rubber all round and they are much better. (can clamp them and the inside pipe bore is bigger?).
I bought the stainless +4" hose set as I bought the procomp dampers es9000 with the britpart hd+2" 420lb springs made one necessary at the back.
before you lash out on a new servo, try a new one way valve push in valve in the servo to see if it is leaking.
I too had a couple of duff master cylinders, latest one was ebay exmod surplus in a trw box. This one i have had no issues with.
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I did a disc brake conversion last year, and found I couldn't get the shield in. Didn't seem to affect the performance or the subsequent MOT
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I notice no one has yet mentioned the BMW X, hyundai, kia , ford, Porsche or other horrendous tesco explorer offerings
Waiting for some snow so I can cheer myself up watching the performance of soft roaders.
Coat.......door
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not sure if it's on here i saw it, but aren't 2.7 model auto gearboxes just starting to show problems? and hopefully there is a jointed multi-part exhaust system available now, as the factory original i was told is put in before the body gets dropped on.
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you can check your half shafts at the back easy enough, take the drive plate off the hub and withdraw the halfshafts. Unlikely to be this though as if it doesn't do it in a straight line or under load the driveline sounds ok.
I would still favour a cv joint if it only does it on hard lock. wind the windows down and find a large area (empty tarmac car park) very low speed 1st gear and on full lock listen for a ticking/clicking or binding noise from front wheels.
See if its better when lock is removed.
P.S you haven't got your difflock in you you? lol
P.P.S just thought of something else, are your stop bolts set on your front steering max angle, i.e to stop the tyres from touching the chassis on full lock. look for rubbing on tyres or chassis.
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is there a clicking noise on tight cornering? could be a cv joint?
The usual way to test a clutch is as you've done, i.e high gear an listen for increase in revs with no change in speed. Or try and pull away with handbrake on, should stall out.
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A place that just does MOT's in my mind is a much better place for an independant view on the state of the vehicle.
Other main dealers or lets say places who are upselling tyres/batteries/exhausts may have a vested interest in telling you you can't drive it on the road after it has failed. Unless of course they fit the parts and charge you for the labour..........ahem.
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It's mounted to the front of the battery box into the footwell...
It's a 3002 HD switch. Rated at 500a continuous, 700a for 5min, 1150a for 1min and 2750a for 5sec. I'm imagining things will melt/catch fire long before the switch gives up! I used a 92mm holesaw for the cutout.
https://www.bluesea.com/products/category/11/35/Manual_Battery_Switches/HD-Series
It was the highest continuous rated I could find at the time.
I like that, it's a nice clean install, and difficult to snag on.
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This is what I have on mine, with the dual monitor as an add on. The additional mod i have is a battery isolator switch on each battery positive to completely disconnect the two batteries and allow the solar top up charger to keep the main battery topped off.
http://www.nationalluna.com/Datasheets/Intel%20Solenoid%20Instructions.pdf
The solenoid relay is chunky, and i like the idea of the timer which puts the charge back to main batt first 5 mins after starting. Or you can see the batt states on the monitor. or if you want to manual overide for 5 mins to e.g winch or jump start.
Once the charge voltage drops off (engine off) the aux battery seperates from the main.
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I tried the car battery/jump leads/ battery core to try and weld an exhaust some years ago. All I managed to achieve was to blow a damn-great hole in it
Les
probably no current limit, maybe try with a few 12v 55w bulbs wired together in parallel, then connected in series with the rod? to act as a load to limit the current.
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I had another thought on this:
Working in pretty much the same way as the one I posted before - but smaller and using the OE mountings to fit. Made in Stainless it could look quite good.
Like the first effort, it ratchets open until it reaches max opening then reverses and ratchets closed so you can hold the door with the vehicle pointing up or down a slope.
Si
needs a thumb release, if you've parked too close to wall/car/tree to open fully.
found that useful with terminal crimpers before, not parking them, just if you need to reposition.
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is the second output dead also? B1+ is first B2+ is second output, For if you have 4 batteries.
You can pick a replacement up off the bay, think there was some on there last week, I threw two away when I swapped the 300tdi.
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I thought they ran dual power pulley on the FFR alternator?
Or is it the 40A version?
They did on the series but not on the 90/110
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draper hi-lift (500mm) trolley jack with a draper transmission cradle on, gearbox is secured over top with a chain.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Transmission-Adaptor-Gearbox-Trolley-Support/dp/B00S1TYK8U
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do you think these would work on 24v? it might be 2 x voltage and half the current so might be OK but clear less quickly although power output is the same in either case.
I'm presuming the resistance of the wire causes the "regulation" so i wonder. Anybody tried it ?
if you got a three tab screen, it may work by connecting the 24v across the outer tabs and leaving the centre unused. effectively two resistors in series rather than parallel? an adult will confirm my logic hopefully.
normally the three tab runs the earth from centre then the sides are both +12v (two resistors in parallel)=lots of current.
Pete
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where is the hole? (arrow or circle might help) if its the area above the shock that's the body, which is separate from any chassis problems. Probably easier to patch/repair as well.
Doesn't look too bad but cant really see much from photo, any chance of some more for a better idea?
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Mr Tweetyduck has got a similar vehicle not long ago, thread linked may be worth a read.
http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=94946
Pete
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Did a spot of fault finding last weekend, after a failed start mid week. The instrument lights would come on glow plug etc, then went for crank and nothing. A vague click could be heard from the solenoid but nothing else. Along with this all the dash illumination went dim/off. So I put the batteries on charge and swapped to the car for the night.
Came to it a day later, same thing. Thought this isn't good, after all it flew through it's MOT in August.
12.75v across battery - 12.6v ign on and crank
12.62v at starter (engine earth) 5.5v ign on and crank
12.62v at starter (engine earth) 2.5v ign on and crank with lights on sidelights
moved earth from meter to battery and remeasured the starter terminal 12.72v (more like it) 12.5v with ign on.
So pinched a single black jump lead and jumpered the batt negative to an engine earth (lifting eye) and tried the starter, bingo!
This is what i found when I took the main batt-gearbox earth off, looks mechanically sound but it was dropping 7-10 volts. (35mm cable and m10 eye)
Remade it with a hydraulic crimp then filled with solder, much better now, and lights are brighter too
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is tqw100030 any good? can't find a picture.
http://www.allbrit.de/UNI.cfm?PAGE=825649&SPRACHE=EN#12
item 12
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through trial and error over last 15 years good suppliers in my book........., LRdirect, Rimmer Bros, Island 4x4, and mm4x4 (local specialist).
Mainly because they will send you the correct parts (well the ones you ask for) and not in a blue box is an option they understand, if that's your choice (almost a given for moving or critical parts)
Not however, xxxdocks or LR dealers as they seem to take the proverbial on several levels
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Ah but theres a different part for truck cab/van option C
Defender heater resistor???
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Adapt something like this?
http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/heater-resistor-britpart-da4178resistor-p-7373.html
or
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2X-100W-Metal-Aluminum-Case-Wire-wound-Power-Resistor-1R-2R-4R-8R-10R-Ohm-/400899083687?var=&hash=item5d57728da7:m:mUqgUd381ie1z6LscL-IVeQ
should only need a 1 or 2 ohm power resistor in series with the fan. (must be in the airflow before the matrix to cool the resistor)