pete3000

If it is generic o-rings you are after i noticed the other day B&Q warehouses have started selling packs or singles in the plumbing section. Most are tap/valve applications but they carry a range of generic o-rings for general use.

no. antennas should be cut to a proper length. much like a string on a guitar. If you said I want a note but cant be bothered to tune it it would sound like a bad celine dion meets meatloaf concert. The position of the antenna will however help pick up weak signals better. As will siting it over a large earthed metalic object such as the centre of a metal roof. Albeit that your truck isn't that well earthed. Sods law dictates though the higher the antenna is mounted the more it will be attacked by trees/bridges/kids and the temptation to hang flags/gonks off it for no apparent reason Pete

How much do you want to spend? I would consider an ex-mod set from withams or the-exmod 15-26kva should do it. depending on if you want to run one or both or if you are feeling flush buy new Kippor or Pramac as budget sets.

Think they may have already dam.....ed Rhayader about 1896 3 or 4 times The village itself is always busy, especially when the tourist places open up at the end of march. Not really sure if I can see if the possible impending action mentioned is a bad thing or not. There is most likely a case for it to be run properly IAW H&S regs so as to keep the would be illegal off roaders off the national trust land and RUPP and ROWs which have temp closures in the area surrounding. On the other hand does the site do its bit in attracting types who have no regard for anyone else, to the area, if it was closed would they look elsewhere, who knows. There are plenty of other businesses in Rhayader who cater for tourists who visit in vast numbers, especially if the weather is good. A prime example is the number of road bikes at crossgates on a Sunday morning upwards of 100. Another tell tale is the police are out speed checking on the straights when the roads are busy as the A44 has a reputation.

Cool, 2859 series? http://www.acewell-meter.co.uk/catalog/ind...4b1dd112e225fde is there an off the shelf solution for the speedo drive FF? I was looking at the ACE S2? Pete

Mine is an exmod 86 also and the greens/blues/oranges are easy to spot. The red ones are a bit tougher. the bottom right orange is a 24v batt for ffr vehicles. There are many different types from what I have seen. Milspec/civvy/tdi/nad/efi Two other red ones with no legend light up as two meshed gears one bigger than other. The other one is a cab tipping forwards. I remember and article from LR mag about LLama FC vehicle I believe there was plans for a LLama vehicle based on a forward cab LR but it was abandoned so in true BL/Rover style the instrument warning clusters were used up on vehicles on the production line. The 24v comes in handy on Mod fleet as the have the ffr alternator, I dont believe there is a seatbelt warning lamp on mine. Pete

£ how much, mine was 6 or 7 quid, mind you that was in 2001. "FA onwards" Mine is an 86 and seem to remember is a BA chassis code? http://www.paddockspares.com/pp/DEFENDER/E...10277_4cyl.html is this any good Ralph? PRC2911? £5.50 exvat Paddocks or Beamends. It's listed for two applications as a lt77 reverse switch and a high/low t-box disco1 switch Pete

I did just this on my ex-mil before I changed my engine and gearbox. You need a reverse light switch for an lt77 about £6 ish. You will need to remove the blanking plug from the top of the selector housing at the rear of the middle seat hatch. The wiring is already there, or should be. Green wire and green with brown stripe to front loom. Green and brown appears on offside rear in the tub behind the lamp cover. From memory One other thing, fit the switch with the gearbox in neutral (springy plunger on switch). You screw it in and then do a locknut up behind it. Beware though if you screw it in too far you wont be able to select reverse correctly. So test it before driving into a parking space against the wall.

The right tool for the job is not a........very small 13mm spanner when trying to remove a corroded in wading plug from the timing cover on a 2.5NAD. Result punched the sump edge as it came undone. didn't look too bad initially until the blood realised someone had opened the door to let it out. lots of blood....a cut down down to the knuckle on little finger on left hand and a distorted tendon. I couldn't stop it bleeding, so wrapped hand in kitchen towel/masking tape. Topped off with a food bag..... mmmm nice. Needed 4 stiches in A&E and flushing under local anesthetic. Not the best thing to watch. It still hurts now in the freezing cold and knuckle/tendon has strange scar/movement.

probably best start at emlra.org. Their C&S tat shop may me able to help/advise. Or failing that e-bay will most likely have lots of tat. make sure you have a wiring diagram for the 24v FFR 110 and make a start with that. At 86 vintage you should have the 3 terminal alternator. WL is warning lamp. (24v no-charge bulb on dash circuit) Big nut 1 is 90A output for 2x 12v 100A batteries in series (24v) Big nut 2 (not normally used) is 90A output for 2 morex12v 100A batteries in series. There is also an ammeter shunt and terminal box which drops on the back of the bulkhead. This has a multiway connector to connect the battery box into. Also a smaller box which bolts behind passenger seat to hold 2x 100A fuses for input leads to batteries. Pete

Hello and Welcome, probably worth introducing yourself on the board in a bit. The radio shouldn't be too difficult to remove using a set of removal keys from autoleads or halfords. When you get it out look at the back of the radio and ask when buying another if the set has same connections for minimum fuss. The standard size radio is a single din slot. Standard loom should be an ISO loom/connectors. There are two types of antenna connector the older type which you most likely have with a longer centre pin, or the later type with a right angle connector and a shorter centre pin. If you buy all the bits at the same time you can buy an new antenna also with correct plug on/or adapter. Depending on your practical experience/time free I would pop it down to Halfords and get them to do it. Find a set you like and shop around though. Recommendations get a set with an Ipod input or USB/ 3.5mm aux input for off road use. CD/mp3 deck for the on road bits. Decent rds radio for the traffic news. Pete

Posted here as it seemed relevant to all Land Rovers. http://www.bromsgroveadvertiser.co.uk/sear...d_Rover_thefts/ link to local paper with details of four Landrovers stolen over a 1 week period from Bromsgrove and surrounding areas. Pete

I have a detachable orange thingy, on my ex-mil. It serves many purposes. 1) oscillates/wobbles about at speed. 2) increases drag/fuel consumption. 3) gets clipped by branches down lanes. I mainly keep it in the back unless I know in advance it is needed, or forget to remove it, mainly though when I do want to use it there isn't an opportunity to jump out and fit it. It is wired with a cigar plug though so it is "not connected to the vehicle wiring" good points though. I have used it in the past at vehicle shows when moving through crowds at 1-2 mph. Also for driving on training areas/private airfields (I do have right of access BTW). To make safer a breakdown on an unlit A road in Wales. The other time I arrived late at night at an RTA on the A44 out Knighton way where there were injuries and only one police officer on scene. I offered to help out as I was told the next arriving unit was 50 miles away. I asked the officer if he wanted me to use the beacon on my landy, he agreed and I obliged. It was effective as my landy was able to shine the orangy light over the bendy hedgerows, whereas you couldn't see the blue police lights on the panda, around the corner, until you were nearly there I think in these sort of times the best money you can spend is on decent quality warm hi vis jacket (winter breakdowns) and a couple of tabbards for summer. Not as bothered if the truck gets hit instead of me. Just my tuppence. Pete

HTH Pete

glad to be of help Roly, the picture wasn't the best, my 4 port one had the same unloader valve and I managed to break the casting on it, so took it to bits to have a look. My take on the little valve. The little valve is an inlet from the back of the 1 way valve (compressor side). once the pump is switched off and the air has gone past the one way valve into the tank, the little valve opens and allows the pressured air that didn't make it into the tank back to atmosphere to relieve pressure on the comressor allowing it to restart not under pressure? I had to buy another 4 port as my compressor needed a pressure relief, gauge, 3/8" bsp, and tank connection. I forgot the casting was white metal and over tightened the npt/bsp taper splitting the casting. I now use 1 or 2 wraps of ptfe plumbing tape and not 5 or 6. I also tried samsonal red which is supposed to be the muts danglies, but is actually useless. Pete

if you don't need the unloader valve connection. As i understand it you only have a screw in pressure switch like the one at mattsavage? http://www.mattsavage.com/acatalog/copy_of...r_Fittings.html ref 90100 I think machine mart do them but not easy to spot. http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/range/de...ies-consumables ref 000320100 website is a bit sketchy but catalogue describes as a 1/4" bsp 1 port. £16.99 inc hth Pete

Good effort so far Stewy, considering only a week. Bit more current then metal should start to fuse in with the weld if you burn through you have too much. Also which gas/machine are you on? get yourself over to www.mig-welding.co.uk for some top advice. Lots of help with welding issues, along with tips and rate my welds pictures, a good few members from here are over there also. I have learn't plenty including which machines to steer clear of and how a weld should look along with methods and solutions. Its not a commercial site so hopefully I haven't broken and rules in linking Pete

If you have no sidelights, or gauge illum I would start with your headlight switch. brown feed, red sidelights and gauges then blue for dip/main. I only have the haynes manual to hand so not sure if this still is good for TD5. Your hazard feed should be fed off a purple feed which is perm live through a fuse, other separate branch purple for horn and dash clock, radio mem. Brake lights are on with ign(white) and should be on a green feed after fuse good luck Pete

I have to say that reading through the comments above I have been always been lucky. I used to use Craddocks who I spoke about earlier in post and rate them as useless IMO. Paddock I generally use if I need something specific and have a part no. (and know it wont be britpart or a britpart copy) MM have always been handy as they are closer and generally do call me when they order bits. The knowledge may not be 100% but that is a rare thing to find in sales staff unless they are passionate about LR's to the extreme. I like that I can walk in and look through the computer for the bits I need and see exactly what I am buying/ordering. I have always found the staff who served me to be helpful, Richard and not sure of other chap. The other bonusof being local is being able to collect and see. I used to use Famous Four exclusively, but when old chap "Barry? " retired no real effort was made by the juniors who didn't really know or care which parts were sent out. Craddocks even argue with you about which part you wanted. I'm also impressed with Island 4x4 (mail order/internet) at the moment after a superb new alternator and RR Classic ignition switch. just my experience Pete

The lights are from memory AMR6514 side, AMR6513/5 ind XFD100100 red AMR6521 AMR6522 rev/fog, ...... coded can't remember off hand. Some 24v spec are available but only difference is bulb supplied. If you want to seal the units VWP sell the connector kits. http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-...me/homepage.php http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-...hting/round.php you can see the plinths for the later fog/reverse. 2 way connector for sidelight, fog, reverse and indicator 01252 and 3 way for stop/tail. 01253 I used the only good part from the wipac lights.......... the cable and bullet connectors Pete

I'd go the other way and drill some bigger holes at the low points. Then you can wash out any debris easier. The mud and sand holds the moisture and salt and rots the tin quicker. I use a compressor to inject waxoyl dinitrol into chassis every 12 months. A pressure washer / hosepipe when its been off road until clean. There's not much point trying to seal a landrover against water ingress, Landrover hasn't been sucessfull in over 60 years! Besides old BLMC cars used to have their petrol tanks drop in half after 15-20 years as the owners who left the tanks around half full/empty had no idea the condensation on bare steel created a perfect seam of rust just above the petrol. I'll never forget my mates allagro when he forgot his tank was on it's last legs and filled it right up at the garage, 5 mins after the bottom fell out of it quicker than the housing market. Along with 8 gallon of fuel JMHO Pete

My Goodyear G90's haven't been too bad today....... until I got over confident and took hard packed snow corner on a side road at 5-10mph , result was a scary understeering at the front. No harm done and lesson learnt. I think the next set wil be AT's for general use. The G90's are a bit pants on tarmac in the wet also. But excellent in the mud. Pete

Thanks for all the replies so far I'll have a fine tooth comb at the ready and let you know what the result is, I have the engine spec from my mate who may be confusing the 300tdi with 3 litre. The few small errors started to add up in the back of my mind, I'm not writing it off yet but, will need to be 101% sure as HFH says. I've walked away from a few "autotrader motors" in the past, although I am not sure where matey has seen this one advertised. I won't buy anything dodge, as it won't be worth the hassle with my concience or the police. Thanks for the vin plate locations, and fair point about the value of said vehicle, seems average (£3k 91 fair nic 5door sw) but will ask to see receipts etc. Guess if the engine has been transplanted it should be obvious, couldn't see last weekend. The other though is if the chassis has original mounts for a 300tdi its a definate non starter. Pete

Thanks Nige, Chassis has not been bobbed but looks very rust free? unusual for a 90-91. If whole body has been changed vin number will not match on seatox if correct location (on my ex-mil the vin plate is on seatbox)? Engine was stated as a 3 litre tdi which I haven't seen or heard yet but I am thinking may be an isuzu or similar. Or maybe a case of someone not knowing what size engine they have I guess the V5 will be the starting point. Pete

I am going to look at a fairly tidy 110 for sale this weekend for a mate. I have seen the vehicle on the drive from the outside for about 5 minutes as the guy was out when we called which was annoying. I think it needs closer inspection, I want to make sure it is the vehicle it is advertised as. It was described as a 110 Van which has had a new hardtop, on first look it has a newish 5 door station wagon complete new body inc bulkhead which has had a respray from green to white and maybe a 3 litre tdi engine??? Chassis looked to be mint which again warrants further inspection This link from tech archive didn't work (site gone?) http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=1996 Things I am looking to confirm: i.e range of numbers on chassis leg vehicle is registered on a H 90-91 (i'm pretty sure it is not a private plate) I've asked to see the V5 and any other supporting evidence. SALLDHAC etc which code is 90/91? DA? on seatbox and chassis Axle no's for the year 22......? Engine and gearbox numbers? if possible? Anything else I should be looking for, and how many points it needs to be legit. I am worried if too much has been changed or butchered it wont be worth the paper it comes with. And following one members horror story could be made up of various bits, which then require an SVA or worse. TIA, for any help or suggestions Pete