pete3000
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Posts posted by pete3000
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quick release, removable hub steering wheel. makes carrying round the shops on your keyring a chore though
if all else fails get a decent gps/gsm tracker fitted, it wont stop your landy getting nicked but the police like playing hide and seek, and have good recovery rates. Will probably save a bob or two on insurance.
Pete
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yup, the slider does nothing electrical till it is near the bottom of the slide, then the first click (speed1, very slow) then speed 2, slow.
Like a film I saw where the donkey was a deluxe 3 speed slow, very slow and stop.
The mechanical slider opens the air flap for manual intake of air into heater, unitl the fan works at the bottom. (optimistic idea at best). Temperature control works by bypassing the heater matrix or not IIRC.
Pete
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As you already know your old heater is actually an aircon fan unit with the associated switch (creamy plastic thingy) and relay to switch your a/c pump in. by swapping the "other heater unit" you will lose the a/c.
Right the wiring for the new one.
the purple/green is a live feed which is needed from the vehicle fuse box when you key is on at pos 1 or greater.
the other two are returns to go to the cab switch for speed 1 and speed 2. They are the other side of the fan and one has a resistor for your slow speed inline.
These are taken to ground by the cab lever switch which should have a black lead connected to its common or wiping contact.
It wont hurt to touch these two green wires to ground one at a time to see which is which.
You don't say if your aircon has packed in or you are stripping it out but, take care if disconnecting pipes with refrigerant in.
It would be worth taking pump off and removing drive belt to save a few bhp. not sure how cab unit is bolted/piped in but this may also give more leg room if removed.
Pete
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If you are looking to do all this at once you will need a 7kva-10kva set. 3hp just about works on a 13amp plug (150amp welder). compressor again 3hp.
If you need lights and a kettle you may need more juice.
silenced sets are worth considering if you don't want to upset the neighbours.
Have you thought about a road towed diesel compressor/welder/generator. This may fit your final bill better than buying seperate components.
Plenty about on ebay, dont buy the cheapest lombardini/lister older sets as they aren't silent.
Only disadvantage is that if it packs in you have lost all three.
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Just a thought, can you try and turn the alternator round to use the other web as the pivot? This will only work if the webs are in line both sides.
Or as a bodge you could get 2 ally bridging pieces made from 3mm plate to sandwich what is left of your broken bracket and alternator web then put small holes (m4-m6) in each half and bolt through plates and hold assembly together. Wont be as good as ally welding but may hold until you can get back to uk.
Pete
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Thanks for replies so far,
I remember the rover 200 series seats well as I owned a 216 but could not remember if the runners ended up flat at both ends.
will have a look at fiat and saab.A lot of newer cars now have airbags and strange runner fixings. The dischargers for the airbags are fitted underneath the seats so I didn't want to go down that route.
Has anyone used discovery seats? freelander?
Pete
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I usually just crack open the fuel filter bleed screw 1-2 turns and turn the engine over on the starter until diesel emerges from the filter.
Never really got on with the lift pump handle thingy. The book was far too complicated on which crank angle it had to be at before it would work properly.
End result engine and battery can do the work.
Pete
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apart from LR seats that is.....
I'm sure many have tried, but are there known combinations of seats which will fit a defender with the rear bulkhead still in place?
e.g discovery seats, RRC or rover parts bin, or ideas on other manufacturers.
I searched exmoor and ebay and was surprised at the cost of basic foam/vinyl seats available.
Ideally something black in leather with plenty of manual adjustment (not electric).
I've done a search on ere with not much in the way of results. Has anyone else any tips or pics they can post?
Other option I was considering is a retrim of a tatty set of 90/110 seats with the headrests and sliders. If anyone has any going begging.
Pete
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have a look on www.milweb.net for NAD 90's of military sorts. Look in vehicle park then landrovers.
People seem to be ditching weekend show toys more now the cost of fuel has risen along with a decrease in local shows that are on. Shouldn't be too difficult to spend around £2k with the landy's being fairly unmodified.
or register and look in emlra.org website in their forsale/wants section.
Pete
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Aragorn, too true, no good using 1-2 watt resistors needs to be a power heatsunk version.
You only need two though at 3 ohms 25 Watt as this produces the same effect as four 6 ohms in each corner. If you check the good old haynes or lr wiring diagram there are only two circuits (left and right) with 2 or three bulbs hanging off each side of the flasher unit/indicator stalk. Green/white and Green/Red leaving the switch/relay IIRC? this is the case on early defenders and 110's I have worked on anyway.
The other reason for a 25W resistor rather than a 50W (with 3ohm) is the flashers are on a 50% on/off duty cycle (or less if you haven't broken down) so 100% load is never seen.
Pete
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VWP will not have one, but these guys do have one.
The reason I would go for the relay swap is because you can then always go back to bulbs if you need to.
You can also just swap out the normal bulbs for LED's, and swap the relay - easy - no wiring
Got some kick ass work lights from them too, both only need a 5am fuse and they are really really bright....
I have swapped all my bulbs for LED's from ultra LED's, but don't bother calling them because the customer service sucks, in fact I had to tell them that, then they actually helped..... (sort of)
Also the make sure you get the correct rear stop tail LED's, as I used the zenon ones and they did not work, but that was when they did not sell the reverse polarity version. And this version will work on my 90 (it's an 07 one), so just check.
mmmmmm....... shiny goods! prices are not too bad but more than I want to pay at the moment.
have you seen these people for worklights/switches/flashers etc...etc.
http://www.emergencyequipmentshop.co.uk/wo...4b6c11312b3ea3a
Pete
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Jim, have a look at www.ultraleds.com
they used to do ballast resistors 1 needed for each side of vehicle (2).
now they seem to do a replacement flasher relay instead not sure if it is any good though?
search "flasher" in quickfind box on their website. N.B (stranger results may appear on google)
for resistor calculation would be maybe be 21w+21w+5w on each side =47w/12v=4ish amps
12v/4A equals 3 ohms. and suggest a power resistor such as a 25watt which can be bolted to rear tub by light cluster.
any less than 3 ohms and the trailer flash may spring into action as you add more current draw.
only my thoughts, no guarantees
Pete
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lots of discussion on this at www.mig-welding.co.uk
http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=4010
see above spreadsheet. And re: decanting of bottles and implications.
http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=5037
Good site with lots of info on fabrication, welding and gas and they even link back here for on-board compressor builds.
I have seen a few members here are on mig-welding forum also. Some knowledgeable guys who have decades of commercial experience.
Pete
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A question to the learned please:
Is it possible to wire in a Bluetooth device so that (say) the fuel pump is disabled unless it's 'connected' to my mobile phone? Obviously a hidden-switch bypass would be advisable, but I thought it would be a really nice automatic no-brain immobiliser...
Cheers,
Roger
Or how about using your 12v remote antenna out feed to drive a starter isolating and latching relay from a face off stereo, this way unless thiefy had your face from radio the engine wouldnt't start. Not as complicated as bluetusk and means you dont forget your tunes.
Course it would have to be a loud enough stereo to be any good in the first place.
cue scene from last of the summer wine with wesley and heavy metal.
Pete
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I really like the military lamps, they seem fairly rugged and ever so easy to change a bulb.
Nice but too easy to change a bulb, in fact at a few shows trucks were returned to with no lenses or bulbs. (difficult to drive home legally) The military liked them for the early vehicles as the maintenance schedules dictated that the bulbs were replaceable without tools of any kind.
The headlight bowls and rims on ex-mil lr's are similar with a bayonet type fixing.
to stop thieving sorts you can put a self tapper through military bug eye lenses or just swap for NAS spec £8 each (not genuine) or plasticy bits £3 each.
at the front fit a set of lamp guards to slow removal.
think these look familiar from my many receipts?
smaller lights with stop tail holders (multiplug)
XFD100100G Stop/Tail Lamp Assembly - Defender from MA939976
XPB100190G Bulb Holder - 5/21W - Stop/Tail Light - Defender from MA939976
AMR6513G Front Indicator Lens And Body - Defender from MA940005 (1995)
AMR6514 Front Side Light Assembly - Defender from MA940005
bigger NAS lamps
AMR3850 NAS Lamp Plinth - Round Reversing/Fog Lights
AMR6526G NAS Stop/Tail Light - No Plinth (AMR3850) - Defender
AMR6527G NAS Indicator Light - No Plinth (AMR3850) - Defender
AMR6528G NAS Front Side Light - Includes Plinth - Defender
AMR6521 NAS Reversing Lamp - Round - Defender
AMR6522 NAS Rear Fog Lamp - Round - Defender
you need a bag or two of locknut plastic square clips which I drilled a 6mm hole and then filed the corners square to fit the small lamps
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Hi all,
Was told on my way to work this morning, that I have no brake lights. Am I right in thinking it's one of 3 things:
Fuse
Both Bulbs (at the same time!)
Brake light switch
Anything I've missed?
Oh, I was off roading a bit yesterday, so everything got a good old shake.
Juz
could be cheapo bulb holders which mine were marked as wipac, from paddocks. o.k on sidelights 5W but if the brakes were on for any amount of time the cheapo plastic holders melted allowing the bulbs to "pop out" under pressure from the spring.
or if you have a older landy the glass fuses are marked for holding current rather than the blow current of the blade fuses.
I thought newer blade fused land rovers had seperate 5 amp fuses for left and right side light circuits. and another for the brake lights and fog lights.
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except I meant to say axle, its not a stub as it is full width. shock absorbers also.
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mmmmm, i have a narrow track 3/4 tonne. Not sure if the same but if you have drum brakes (shoes) rather than discs, I heard it mentioned that the brake/stub axle was similar if not the same as the old sierra. Maybe a pack of lies but it's my only lead at the moment. I haven't been brave enough to strip my trailer for renovation yet. Parts catalogue is available on internet. but not much use for ordering parts only for maintennance
Paddocks did have brand new tubs for £150 collect only, a while back.
My other plan was to buy a wolf spec hs trailer with disc brakes as a replacement.
only other thought was to graft some stub axles and hub/brakes assemblies from towsure.com or similar.
Maybe someone else can enlighten.
Pete
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Specify what you need and will arrive and mix only what you need and wheelbarrow it into the foundations for you, I used this for 3 cu metres 3 years back.
max lorry load 7-8 cu metres. Great for me as shed was no where near the road for access.
about £100 per cu metre. includes 3+ large blokes for 1hour to tip it
just need to level concrete yourselfmoney well spent with no mess or bad back. Check delivery radius, though sure there must be branches/firms around the country.
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Hi Lee
Nope, no ramp. I will be using HD car ramps that give a 16" lift and will be working on the first bit of hard standing I can find where I can leave my car for a couple of weeks where it won't be in anyones way while my gearbox gets sorted by Ashcrofts.
Pete
This actually looks like a Draper transmission cradle which fits their two tonne trolley jacks,
http://www.justoffbase.co.uk/200kg-Transmi...er-ATJ2-TC?sc=9
I own both and used the cradle to drop my LT77 and refit my r380 and lt230 with little problem. Adjustment is quite big for many types of gearbox. make sure you get a hi lift trolley jack though.
Pete
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I have just whipped the driver's side drum off and the configuration is the complete opposite - the front-most shoe has most of the friction material at the bottom and the rear-most shoe has most of the friction material at the top.
Help...!
check the silver coloured blip/peg is locating with and adjusting with the adjusters. It looks like the peg is facing outwards on both shoes?
unless it protrudes the same on both sides of the shoe(can't remember).
I got sold 90 shoes which didn't fit at all, so you have the right shoes. Just make sure they have been fitted as two matching pairs e.g 1 of each on each side. Mine were taped together as 2 pairs. The pegs for the adjusters are the best clue I can give without seeing the job. Also make sure you have bled the rear brakes once done if the pedal is spongy. Only do this when you have the brakes back together though obviously.
I took the opportunity to change my brake cylinders while I was at it as I had a leaking seal.
Pete
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take it you are going from a 2.5nad? majorish bits.
cut off old and weld new engine mounts and replace seatbox/tunnel/bulhead plates/metalwork
new exhaust mounts new gearbox crossmember and mounts.
work out where to get a power steering box and drop arm from (if you dont have power steering at the mo)
new fuel unions and feeds for pump.(i replaced both pipes to tank)
wiring mods for glowplug relay.
new radiator/intercooler assy
pipework for air intake(finish neatly with a snorkel)
may need new propshafts. front and rear (length changes due to R380)
suggest getting a complete "kit" from a salvage or scrappy. £2k-£2.5k all in?
some bits although unserviceable will prove useful as exchange for new parts when you find they are useless.
I did a conversion 3 years back and would recommend it, if you can stand the cost which you will never recoup in money terms.
best place to start is www.nicksjungle.co.uk for an idea of work involved. although he uses a LT77 gearbox which may cut down on parts and work involved with seatbox and propshafts, although add to complications with engine pipework. He has good sections on glowplug and harness wiring.
make sure you get a defender engine if possible as mentioned elsewhere on here the disco engine has a different manifold/turbo arrangement which results in nifty pipework and tight clearances.
Pete
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good circuit site. some of the links can be sites which need login tho'
Pete
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which engine is it for dude?
2.5 NAD is older type bracket for huge dustbin alts 24v x90A x2 lower piece and pivot with stay and arm?
300tdi is wolf ally alternator bracket which I bought from PA Blanchard in the region of £70
ouch. You can make one up from steel if you have a welder handy. Plus you'll need a tensioner and idler and belt. (similar if not the same as aircon parts) then theres the alternator which a genuine one is £800-1000
.Pete
will have a look at fiat and saab.
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Thief proofing defender?
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
How so?
If it can't be fitted due to lack of hiding places fair enough, but if you can fit it to basic plant equipment I would say this has already been well thought out.
A GSM/pocsag tracker does not need a view of the sky like gps systems as it sleeps until given a wakeup code at which point a radio beacon signal is switched on which lets the police direction find it. So remains active with a backup battery even if vehicle is dead electrically.
Has anyone ever seen a tracker unit
it could look like any various automotive item (wiper motor, relay, box, door lock, fluffy dice 
)
Besides if you shop around the various manufacturers, Tracker, Securicor, etc they promote schemes through various big insurers to reduce your theft excess to £0. So not a waste of money either IMHO. Some offer to pay you £1000 on top of your insurance payout if the vehicle is not seen again.
So if a HIAB truck has been used and your vehicle is found in the yard with it then a lot more than just your vehicle will be recovered/seized.
Pete