joe1joe

That picture is exactly what I was after, it’s bit of a shame as my internal fuel tank sits directly where the bumps stops come through the floor and judging by your boxes my two inch body lift will not make up for the difference. I am a few years into my rebuild, surprising how long it takes! Hopefully i wilL finish sooner than six years though.....!

And maybe some pictures of how much is cut out from inside the car, and how you got around covering it.

I don’t suppose you could measure how high the rear bump stop protrudes the rear spring seat? as I have a 2 inch body lift and the rear arch lip has been trimmed back, so have more clearance than you have although probably not enough to prevent having to cut the arch. and do you have one bump stop spacer fitted? thanks !

Also will later door cards for exposed hinge doors? Had a look all over the web with no answer ..... mine are 1985 style door cards and getting a little tatty thanks in advance

Will 200 or 300 tdi door opening rubber and window rubber/waist seals fit Range Rover Classic (4 door exposed hinges) thank

They suffer from oil surge at the best of times, so very low oil wouldn’t have helped !

Heat gun with ridged plastic scrapper so the paint doesn’t get scratched, then white spirit, I wouldn’t use thinners as it will remove the paint aswell !

With rac, and left on the side of the road for 4/5 hours, then was finilly dropped home after they subbed the job out as they don’t actually have that many tow trucks! Then proceeded the chip all the curb stones outside my house........ but to be fair I have heard waiting times are similar with AA.

At least half of it was caught by the mat 🙈

Did the 405 die through the oil starvation they suffer with !? Had a 205 for 8 years, great cars,

Steering could be castor related due to lift, but sounds a little too severe for that. could be seized ujs, which if not caught earlier enough can nacker the steering colume bearings, could be tight steering box if someone has tightened up steering box slack in straight ahead position? Would get tight when lock is put on as box wears in straight ahead position more

They do look very brittle, I have had Ashcroft cvs for over 5 years and haven’t broken one yet. think I would return them, and get Ash Croft cvs, at least you have tried them.......

I will have to get a thread up done a lot already axle wise, the galvanise should be a fairly even coat and was planning on running a file over mating faces just to nock of any imperfection etc (lightly) As to be honest minor minor uneven in the mating face won't be half as bad as how bent the front axle was before I got a new casing which was working fine although not quite the point! But come to think of it the rear stub and front chrome swivels are a tight fit into the casing a couple mm which I will need to sort.

I am planning to have my axles galvanised for my tray back and leave them un-painted as it's 50 quid to blast the pair and not a lot more to galvanise them. I have welded on gwyn Lewis pans The reason I was going to galvanise them is if I paint them it all comes off as soon as you hit the mud! I was going to get the swivel housings done as well, has anyone had any experience in doing this? Also does anyone know the the threads sizes for the axle breathers and calipers? If I go through with it I will post up results O and any of the threads on the swivel housing to save me going through the hassle of working out what threads they are Thanks

It’s a series2 chassis with a defender bulkhead, and disco pas box The bulkhead end is none removable although it is on the RRC shaft. Don’t suppose someone could measure the length of a land rover 90 shaft to get the ball rolling!? As the shaft looks to be a standard unmodified item.

i need a replacement steering intermediate shaft as mine has play in the uj joint at the steering column end. the problem i have is i am unsure what year/model shaft i need, below is a picture of mine which doesnt look like the two options given for the land rover 90 in the second picture? its the longer shaft of the two (the other is a range rover classic) its 22" long no shaft jokes please!

I was going to start a new thread but noticed this one, Can anyone see any draw back in connecting the inlet back into the cab? As i have tubular wing kit fitted which means the heater inlet box wasn’t fitted, which in turn caused the fan to seize and fill with mud and water. I have since un-seized the motor and cleaned the heater box assembly and rectified the poor bulkhead seal. But i now need to stop this happening again so i was considering connecting the heater inlet back into the cab via some 80mm flex pipe through the bulkhead into the cab around the footwell area. The other option could be running a snorkel for the heater inlet but don’t really want another snorkel!

no pictures on the laptop, but will soon tho......... I have a lock unit ordered with lock barrel so I can now lock the landy!

or just buy a seal kit and fix the box you have? if its a four bot the kit is 8 pounds.......

i have a pair of anti burst door locks but they seem to be missing the part which holds in the door lock barrels? the last picture shows what i aprear to be missing!? cheers