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minivin

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About minivin

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    Old Hand

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  • Location
    Amesbury, South Wiltshire
  1. Cheers Andy, that would be most appreciated
  2. Propshaft Clinic made me a 4" slip joint with wide angle yokes when I fitted T I Console para's to my 109FFR (this has a 1Ton chassis with extended shackles already, adding to the problem). Just the extra slip joint length on a standard length prop solved my issues.
  3. 526608 http://www.johncraddockltd.co.uk/productno...?partno=526608# https://secure.pablanchard.co.uk/product.asp?productID=30572 http://www.dunsfold.com also list them
  4. Ah kay, been an interesting day, I have contacted both P A Blanchards and Duxford who list in their spares that they have the spring compression tool, but alas they don't. I have also gone to Land Rover direct through my offical spares dealer and they have not done tools in years and have sub contracted it to SPX. Now unfortunately SPX do not have a cross-reference chart for old vehicles and only "really" specialise in the modern Land Rovers...... So alas, this tool has become an item that no one does/will/want to stock. Does anyone have one of these tools that they would be willing for me to borrow to take dimensions off so that I can produce my own tool? I do have access to a loose steering relay, but would rather copy an original tool.
  5. Possibly fitted with one of these:
  6. I've had a look at both Goodrich and Earles and unfortunately after some time searching through lots of their braided hosing I gave up. However, two success stories, BeamendsLRS supply stainless 3/8 UNF, 7/16 UNF and M10 stainless on certain items. While Stainless parts can supply as stated in an email: "The 3/16 i/d Stainless Steel Brake Unions on the website is the INTERNAL DIAMETER. the threads (UNF) are actually 3/8 UNF. We do have in line bulkhead fittings for the 3/16 i/d x 3/8UNF. the only 7/16 fittings we have are in brass. I hope this helps" http://www.beamends-lrspares.co.uk/BeamEnd...akes/index.html http://www.stainlessparts.co.uk/product/view/-/productId/47 Getting there, but not all the bits I need!
  7. Thank you gentleman, I'll give your recommendations a try! Rob Vincent
  8. Isn't Goggle a brilliant resource, well actually it isn't, most of the time it finds worthless Ebay links and general rubbish that equates nothing to what you put into the search field. Well, simply put I have been searching for much time now to find a supplier of stainless steel brake unions so that when I rebuild my 101 I don't have rusty nuts for when the inevitable replacing of the slave cylinders et cetera happen. I believe Mr. Barton on here used to supply them but no longer does. Can any one point me in the right direction?.
  9. That sounds like the dog gear out the equation. Worth pulling the PTO cover for the cost of two gaskets to make sure the output gear aint come loose
  10. i) Take the PTO cover off and check the output gear is ok on the mainshaft splines. ii) While the PTO cover is off, worth pulling the gear out and seeing if the mainshaft can be moved, if so, the mainshaft bearings may have let go. iii) ummmm...... drop the oils in the gearbox and transferbox and see if anything comes out! Just remembered the dog gear on the output shaft of the transfer box, the gear that goes back and forth to engage high or low ratio, has a very crude teeth arrangement that can wear with time and result in total failure. Engage low ratio and see if the vehicle moves. Clutch-wise, if you can engage gears, I'd go away from clutch failure at this moment.
  11. I had looked into the option of removing the standard air filter mount in a series and locating it there, however if your willing to do some chopping to the facier you could mount it within on the port side and run the pipes ah la defender. I got an alloy oil cooler and mounted inside the from facier as follows: Corr that was a few years ago now
  12. Aiy, same basis as what we have fitted to class 158 and 159 diesel trains on South West Trains. Our one's which are much larger have an external water pump. There are two thermo-couples inside the unit to measure the water temperature, it cuts the unit once it gets to a certain temperature, the second is a fail safe to prevent over heating. Yes it will sound like a turbine as it will more than likely have a coaxial motor with an impelor to draw air in, blow it past the burner head and then down the burner chamber and back down the exhaust. Watch the exhaust, they get bloody hot. The fuel jet mounts on certain models have a plastic body, BE WARE IF IT IS PLASTIC. They just supplied a whole load of new complete assemblies to us and they have been leaking like hell and when you have lots of diesel being sprayed around a naked flame, well, the Red Arrows aint got ****ing anything on us, we can fill a three road train shed in not much time with white smoke . Also the flame tube can crack, so worth checking. Other than that, pretty much bullit proof and I must get around to rebuilding my Eber' for the 101FC
  13. aiy, has already been discussed on the 101FCC&R. pretty much means chopping chassis around, changing steering arms on steering swivels et cetera. better to find someone who wants the opposite and swapping vehicles.
  14. Depends on the quality, there's one in Salisbury who'd do the same for £150 powder coated. He does the best in the area which doesn't chip off (my 109 chassis is powder coated by him, it's got scratches through the powder from three years ago and it still hasn't rotted off like most people threat about), but it's down to the preparation, heating, application and curing that gives the result, any short cuts results in a **** finish.
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