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minivin

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Everything posted by minivin

  1. Does anyone know the part number for the pin that goes through the throttle peddle and mounting bracket for a defender-esq vehicle? it looks to be 5/16" dia. by 2" long with a 1/16" clevis pin through it to hold it in place, but I can't be fussed to make one......
  2. Aiy, and even these days with CAD they screw it up still, I couldn't get the connectors onto the crash data recorder on one aircraft as the mechanicals had shot off ahead and got their side designed, produced and fitted, had to then get a company make us some special connector back shells to give us enough room to fit the connectors and then bolt the recorder down, rather than scrap umpteen thousands worth of design and materials. Clever init!
  3. Thta's if the right item turns up within a fortnight......
  4. The induction noise at my snorkel is "interesting" to say the least from my calculations based on a 3.5V8 idling at 1kRPM and an inlet snorkle diameter of 3.5"D, I came up with a column of air as follows: engine capacity 3500 cc 213.5831 Inches^3 Engine Speed 1000 rpm Inlet Diameter 3.5 Inches Inlet Area 38.48451001 Inches^2 Air Volume 1779.859167 Inches^3/s Air Speed 46.24871582 Inches/s Naturally with a TDi it would be less, but it gets you thinking what the air speed is at something like 4500RPM
  5. I concur on the fuel economy, my ex boss had a SIII SWB Station Wagon running on a 2.25P, he did a few tweaks to the engine, as well as fitted a more modern Lucas digital ignition system out of a montego that needed the advance curve tweaking (more advance needed!) and fitted 3.54:1 diffs. result was that he could achieve 25MPG on the motorway at 70mph!. Insurance wise, Adrian Flux! I only passed my test two years ago when I was 23 and I'd just finished the rebuild of my 109 (had a motorcycle license since I was 17 and riding sportsbikes et cetera I didn't really have a need for a car......), I contacted AF the day after my test and they happily took me on with the insurance being as follows: Series III 109 ex military 2.5 Normally Aspirated Deisel Modifications: Parabolic springs NCB: Nil Driving License Years: Nil Premium: TPFT unlimited mileage, 500 quid or there abouts (I forget) I then six months later fitted a 3.5 Rover V8 and their response was "everyone fits them, that'll be an extra 50 quid", then a front disc brake conversion with the response of "wise conversion, no change to premium" and finished off with a defender gearbox conversion that also had the same response. You've got to play the game
  6. Aiy, just thinking that, good heating, roll reforming and then normalising would not make it perfect, but make for a good wheel. Plenty of specialists out there and IIRC Michealdever at Popham do it or get it done.
  7. darn, my foot wells aint standard any more, however it's only the V8 cut-outs that are the major difference, I'll keep my eyes open for the future as they aint much more than bog standard mates from what I can see
  8. I think the ratios were pretty standardised with the R380, unlike the LT77, but as stated above best ask Ashcrofts!
  9. Well what can I say, from this: to this: to this: Took me 18 months, and being a aircraft designer I also had access to the workshops at work amongst other specialists since I rebuild classic motorbikes. If you want to do something in 3 months I would recommend buying a half decent 2.5NAD 90 as it won't be such a heap to start off with and the parts funnily enough are more plentiful these days as Series parts are starting to dry up on certain things. Oh and 109's are not bad in corners, they're actually more controlled when you get the back end sliding, much fun at my local roundabout also the tracking in a straight line is better due to the longer wheelbase ie less fatigue on long motorway jaunts
  10. http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-...me/homepage.php http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-...es/holders1.php Not much on the blade fuse side for single connection, but plenty of alternatives at VWP
  11. would do, but I don't have a front prop at present, as, well, I sorta ordered a new prop from the Prop shaft Clinic, and got the length wrong by one inch...... so I had to send it back just before Christmas dunno whether it will turn up after boxing day or not......
  12. 63.5mm, or 2.5" is a standard size which you may be able to get from intercooler people such as on Ebay et cetera. Got the 1D 90 degree alloy bends for my snorkel from an intercooler shop
  13. <following on from the Father Ted theme> Feck! </> Sorry to read about this Si, don't get on the computer that much to hear about things happening good luck with your new build!
  14. a lot of it is knowing who can do some of the jobs for you, and having a decent selection of tools I work out of a 6' x 6' shed with a pillar drill, bench grinder, a L shaped bench bolted solidly to the walls and a selection of taps, dies, et cetera. Luckily I can get access to mills and lathes which is an added bonus, but I must get my lathe together that's in the motorcycle shed
  15. I used the standard R380 input shaft for mating to a 200TDi, but lathed the nose down so that it would mate to the V8 without having to have a spigot adapter (3/4" instead of 7/8" diameter Cheers I see another 109!
  16. Better ask Rogue Yep, totally agree!, unfortunately I didn't want to go disturbing the engine and removing it, so I was very particular about measuring and jigging the two parts together before welding and got a friend to weld it who, well, spent the day on works pay welding it up for me After that I measured a slight difference on gearbox mounting face on the surface plate, so got it skimmed to bring it true. unfortunately if I had of gone down that route it would have come up through the seatbox and would have meant some serious chopping of the seatbox, and as well I like the Series controls, it baffles the hell out of when they quickly look in and see what looks to be a standard vehicle, with a five speed cluster shown on the gear knob Cheers guys, much appreciated And it's even had it';s first outing Same again tomorrow
  17. Yep, Rogue did that for me the star that he is Yep, it was like that due to the LT230 not being fitted and it's respective mount. The LT230 was "jacked" during the jigging of the second mount so the loading on that rubber has been relieved <cough> you don't think I'd show the bits I bodged
  18. I don't get on any of the forums that often these days, think the last time I was on here was a few weeks ago, anyhoo the 109 is nearing completion (again) after a long slog to get it back together For those that have forgot, V8+LT77+Series Transfer Case conversion+rolling burnout past a Nissan Warrior (bet he's never seen a Series III go that fast past him before)=blown up LT77 <doh> So out came the box and an agonising choice to fit an R380. Initially Aschrofts were brought onto the matter and they supplied a reconditioned box (late piccie as the bell housing is already made) Me and a few others couldn't track down a stubby bell housing, so through my efforts, Rogue Troopers and a mate of his, we cut-and-shut a LT77 bell housing for the job Previously the LT77 extension housing was cut about a bit to clear the gearbox mount off of the Series TC, this time I decided to change it and have it come direct off the R380 ala Defender et cetera. So a Series mount was chopped and used as a jig since I knew how far the LT77 and adapter plate moved the mounting hole: Job done: And swiftly fitted: Next came fitting the R380 as an initial point so I had a datum to work with with the rest of the system: A tab was welded onto the bell housing ala Series for the hi/lo lever The Series TC conversion was dumped at this point and a 1.003 LT230R was acquired off of a friend cheap as I had sold him a 1.222 cheap for his D90 Bearings, seals and gaskets from Ashcrofts, it was reconditioned: It was then offered up to act as the jigging point for the other gearbox mount, a bit of material was removed off the bottom of the diff housing, but it cleared quite nicely The offside mount was then made out of an old Series mount being chopped, a rectangular plate on the LT230R diff housing, and some lengths of 1/4x1" strip cut and profiled to shape to triangulate it as the two plates were at different levers. With this bracket done, the lot was then fitted: Via a pair of rose joints and some stainless steel rod, the hi/lo lever was linked: and a bell crank assembly has been made for the diff lock (as the LT230R has been converted to 2WD with selectable 4WD) which I will finish and fit this weekend. This will be mounted upside down under the floor panel: Original floor panel refitted and the hi/lo back in it's right place, now just to fit the Rover 800 disc brake calliper for the hand brake (ala Tonk) that I have retained off the old Series TC after making a new mounting bracket, diff lock, and I think that's it
  19. Well done! You've achieved what a lot of us have been trying for ages I unfortunately brought mine from Ashcrofts at ~£500+VAT, and only a week later saw one on Ebay with a bell housing sell for £550
  20. I hope he's ordered the right one then
  21. Just had an email from Dave at Ashcrofts, the rumour is untrue unfortunately for those who still need one Not yet, still busy with making gearbox mounts, control linkages et cetera. But once I have finished it I'll try and get something written up as at present the nearside fabricated mount works a treat, and the offside one shouldn't be too much of an issue so I'll be retaining my standard chassis mounts
  22. That's what I want to know as well, spent a month or so going back and forth getting this one made However it's in now
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