minivin

oh, and LT230 speedo drive gears are machined so that they come out at 90 degrees to the output shaft, while a R380 2WD speedo drive comes out at about 60 degrees to the mainshaft, so you can't use the bits from a 2WD to do speedo change work

excellentay, another datum to work from One thing I did find while comparing a 2WD R380 to a LT230 is that the drive gear on the 2WD R380 is splined for engaging on the mainshaft ie positively located, while the LT230 is a plain slide fit on the output shaft, so it's dependent on being clamped on by the output flange retention nut pressure. Why couldn't British Leyland keep stuff simple

ok, I have just torn the 14D...A 1.003 LT230 apart and have come up with the following: Screw: 9 start Worm: 20T Ratio 2.222(reoccurring):1 Therefore in theory the speedo would think you were driving 1.01% slower and as the speedo always seems to read grossly over when ever I compare it to the GPS (75mph indicated compared to 68mph actual on one test), it would bring the speedo marginally closer to what your actual speed is, if retaining standard tyres et cetera. However, I do not know at present whether other LT230's use a different screw gear with the other worm gears, so something to possibly find out and see which gears can be swapped for different ratios?

This is the ratios that I had/have/will have: Original series down the bottom with 7.50x16 tyres, 4.71:1 diffs, standard gearbox et cetera. Top is the LT77 with Sherpa 2WD 1st and 2nd gear (even lower and better crawl speed), matted to a Series Transfer case Finally middle, R380, matted to RRC 3sp auto 1.003 LT230 and 235/85x16 tyres (31.7" dia compared to 31" dia 7.5x16). Just hope it all comes together soon as I'm pee'd off not being able to go out on the range at present, since the motorbike objects to speeds less than three figures

nay probs! I'm going 1.003 LT230 box as with the 3.5V8 it's going to happily pull it, and it makes my revs drop such that in 5th gear I've gained nearly 10mph for the same revs compared to the LT77/Series TC combination. Always important keeping the revs down for the fuel economy And hopefully my new R380 is arriving tomorrow from Ashcrofts excellent effort by Dave and the team as it's only been a week since I got the parts sent upto them now to get the starboard side chassis mount done as I've already jigged and made the port side mount

Now that's what I did when I built a rev counter for my classic motorcycle, as I used some speedo bits to make the drive and then got a very helpful Chronometric speedo person down West Sussex to build a rev counter to my requirements...... anybody know of a speedo person who does speedos ala Land Rover?

I run a 108mm (4") prop spacer on my LT77/Series TC conversion for 2.5k miles with no problems, and that was a full-fat ie no lightening hole through the centre, item that if it was to have been an issue would have manifested itself early on. I have measured and produced a new drawing to get a new prop spacer made for mine as I am also going LT230 now, I have jigged the LT77 and Series TC, and then jigged and measured a LT77 and LT230, and I have measured bang-on that the spacer changes from being 108mm (4"), to being 7" from mounting face to mounting face. This time however I have hollowed out the item to reduce weight on the output flange support bearings. This should mean that the weight of both items (4" and 7") will be the same, just that the bending moment will have moved out by 1.5". The rear output flange moves 1 1/8" rearwards comparing an LT77/Series TC conversion to a LT77/LT230 combo. I have not determined how this affects my truck at this moment in time. n.b. above considers a 20mm thick LT77 to Series TC conversion plate, Ashcroft conversion I believe uses a 12mm adapter plate or thereabouts

Ok, I have just examined a Series Transfer Case speedo drive and it is as follows: Screw: Five Start Worm: 11T Ratio: 2.2:1 So with a diff. ratio of 4.71:1, the speedo ratio that the speedo head sees is 10.362:1 or 10.362 revolutions of the speedo drive worm gear, per single revolution of the rear wheel. However, that's superfluous as IIRC all you need is a 2.2:1 ratio on the LT230 speedo drive to get the same affect as a series TC when only changing the Series TC and GB for an LT77/R380 and LT230

Aiy, will see what I can get when we get up there

A friend has a 101 up in Andover in bits at present, if as such would possibly be of use? rolling chassis at present and we are planning to be working on it over May bank holiday weekend

Aiy, knew about the speedo head being a factor in the game of things, it was something that was lurking in the back of my mind a few weeks back on whether the swapping of speedo's would assist as well..... and then something came up and it got put aside

The ratio in the transfer case (1.003, 1.222 et cetera) won't affect the speedo readout as it is up-stream of the speedo drive. As the speedo drive is on the output shaft, ala Series TC as well, only the teeth numbers on the speedo drive worm and screw determine the speedo drive ratio, and then the axle ratio with tyre size determining what the speedo ratio needs to be. However interesting that the 1.003 RRC box speedo drive gives an accurate read-out for tyres that are 31" (7.50~, with 235/85 being close to 31.7"~), 4.7 diffs and a LWB speedo, good news for me, but possibly not for you John as it will depend on the final drive ratios in your axles

that's one bit down now what was the series worm gear

was thinking about the ratio issues a few days ago got a 14D suffix A here which hopefully soon I will pull apart and can figure out what that ratio is, if I get a chance soon I'll look at the Series items and see what ratio the speedo drive is to set as a base-line

Just found a good picture of mine with the 2" slip joint standard prop on the front: I aint done another check yet (as they've built on that area now the buggers), but when I got under there to measure up this was when I found out it had topped out and that the prop was limiting the droop on my axle for the drivers side

yup, way to go, without the extended chassis mounts you may just get away with not needing a long slip-joint prop, but worth a check just in case

Same problem on mine, 109FFR extended shackle chassis, military/1Ton shackles, TIConsole Parabolics, bottomed and topped out front propshaft! Personally I resorted to getting the Prop Shop to make me a wide angle, 4" slip standard length prop which has solved all my problems as the articulation from fully compressed, to fully extended was more than the standard 2" travel of the standard prop. Worth doing some checks with the prop removed to determine if this is the same issues for you?

did find a 14D, but the person wanted £140 luckily FBB at Shrewton who I bumped into yesterday at Sodders reckon they have a couple lying around over the hill, so will pop out there to get one during the week spent quite a bit of time cleaning or scrapping every single LT230 that I came upon yesterday looking for the serial number

I actually made money! met Mike and sold him two alloys, and then only brought a bling bling V8 badge to go on the 109, nearly brought a Clark Mast clamp but RogueTrooper wouldn't let me as he was muttering something about getting the gearbox fixed before adding a 12 Metre PU12 Clark Mast

standard thing in LT77's from what I have seen in taking them apart is for a roller bearing to have the needles at a slight twist to the axle axis. unfortunately I won't get access to one in parts till Monday to take a photo to show the point, however I have found this excerpt from the LT77 manual while typing and flicking through a manual: Maybe flicking through the LR Series Manual may produce the same, or the parts person is getting his Series and LTxx boxes mixed up. If I get a chance Monday I will examine RogueTroopers stripped Series box and see if a set of rollers are tilted

Aiy, have the prefix numbers and will search today

Interesting, just got my Series Transfer Case and LT77 stripped today and it's "sick", definately spending the money and getting the R380 in, but may have a ponder about what goes on the back

Or with us "Replace the grow bag" For some reasons pilots don't like their flight overalls being called grow bags

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