Soren Frimodt

And the final pic from the alternator bracket

And then came time to add some more power to the twin redtop optimas A 200Amp alternator from a Mercedes Vito came into play and a bit of ally welding.

The bracket for the second motor

Final assembly

machining some "tracks"

more

So my mate has this ninety with a 8274 and a XP motor. We wanted more pulling power and fell in love the adaptor from flaminfabrication in AUS. But decided, why not make it ourselves? And so we did. We made it as short as possible to avoid it looking too silly. Well not much else to say, check out the pictures and hit me with if you have any questions

Thank's to everybody for your input. It would really be a shame to cut and weld in my new chassis as it is galvanized. So think I'll drop the idea. Otherwise sounds like a pretty straightforward operation

Anyone?

Hello Gents. Just did a chassis swap on my '85 oneten and found out that the fueltank really isn't very good. Due to all the advantages of a plastic fuel tank, I was wondering whether it would be a fairly straight forward swap? I was thinking about the plastic tank off of a TD5, but possibly it's also made of plastic on the later v8's? Anybody has any experience or knowledge on the subject? Any help would be thankfully recieved Cheers

Sorry, wasnt my intention to make it into an argument, just wanted to share my experience with toy axles. And ofcourse there's the fact that most defenders are much lighter than Toy's. I don't know the prices in the UK for used parts. But in DK it isn't rare to hear about people paying upwards to 350 pounds for a used CV for a toy or Nissan GR/GQ

My experience with any LandCruiser axle is that the CV's are absolutely rubbish. I honestly don't see why people use these axles. Anything over 33" tires and they break constantly. Sure the axles and diffs are stronger than Rover type. But I'd rather fit a sal's in the rear and ARB/ashcroft'ed rover in the front. Main reasons: Parts are absolutely everywhere, caliper new complete is dirt cheap. Swivelballs are replaceable. And there is no questions asked at the MOT.

My first car was a 90 V8 '85. it had larger brake calipers at the front, 4 pin diff rear only, front was std. 10 spline stuff. The halfshafts rear are CONSIDERABLY stronger than 300tdi stuff. Almost salisbury like. There was this funny exhaust gas recycle thing, which I blocked. It was by the time I bought it fitted with a pair of brand new SU's. It swalloved juice like a Polish h*re But I loved it! Being a first year apprentice back then I could by no means afford to drive it. But that only made it more exclusive and made me enjoy it everytime I could jump off the bike and get into the car for a drive. I agree with the fact that the fueltank is WAY too small. But if you bring a jerrycan with petrol it can actually bring you quite a distance with a gentle throttle. Now I have a 110" V8 from '87. I have been over several diesel's including 2,5TD, 2,25D n/a and a stage one optimized disco 200 TDI. I like diesels but nothing beats a V8. It's simplicity, it's ruggedness, the surge of power that just continues on and on and on. and ofcourse the SOUND! But there are to sides to this sound, as loud and furious as it can sound when you hammer it, it can be just as quiet and laisy. Just today I was going into the nearest town for a haircut. When a Nissan GR turned op besides me at the lights. He revved his pathetic no-torqued 2,8 TD. I didn't do anything other than select second gear. When the lights changed I gave it hell! And goodbye Nissan!

Hi Gareth. Sounds very interesting you must promise to get back to us wether it is doable or not. I happen to know a bloke who's got a couple of ENV's kicking about aswell.

Don't think they are 4,7's.. Can't see any spacer-ring between the CW and Locker housing.

My guess aswell

This is how I did it. Definetly not rocket science, and most likely not the best solution, but IMHO it worked a treat! No more noticeable axle movement/tramp than a defender. And dirt cheap and simple to fabricate. Heim Joints at both ends, mounted center axle and center to the pivot point of the spring in the front. And to avoid binding the vertical distance from center axle to center of the joint on the axle, was the same as center from spring bush to center of frame joint.

I had the exact same thought one day surfing through pirate. A guy was doing something with a P38 V8 and I noticed the lefthand offset front output, and instantly thought MOG! I've later on been under a Disco 3 and seen the same thing, although with a bit more electrikery..

It's actually quite funny. I just saw this post on Pirate4x4, and they simply LOVE the build! So not taking sides, I just think it's funny with so different opinions

I actually saw a picture of the winch in question, or atleast a similar one, searching through google pictures one day. Sadly can't seem to find it again. This one only had one brake on it. I do know that you have to double the line when the winch is "kneeled" And we often do that, but it simply takes too long. Yes the great thing about the 8274 is undoubtably it's ability to pick up the winch line when the vehicle gets grip, and probably is the reason why it's so popular all around the world. I don't really know what we are going to do, maybe make our own twin motor setup. Which is why I would like to see some pictures of the one i linked, to get some ideas. Thanks for the input so far though, keep it coming

Nothing really, but most of the time we only go forward No seriously he has manually operated valve for the air pressure, and when down a steep slope as you say, we engage freespool and use only the brake. But we have only done this once, most of the time we actually DO go forward. And on short downhills he does the winching out in intervals.

Speaking of my brother, here he is testing the strength of his new Bobby Longfield axles and CVs

My brother has air over hydraulic disc brake on his 8274. Using caliper and disc from a scooter, and mastercylinder from a 125cc motorbike. And is operated by an aircyinder, which in turn is operated by electromagnetic airvalves. So when he lets go of the spool in or out button it brakes. Will take some pictures and upload these. Sounds interesting with that Goodwinch, got any pic's?

Well it says 8274-50, and the motor says 2,5hp. And since he has had from new, we know the engine has not been replaced. But I don't know, maybe the dealer tricked him and changed the motor B)

Okay Will, I see your point. The thing is that my brother (from whom I'm asking) Has a 8274-50 with the old 2,5hp motor. He has had this winch since it was brand new and never had a single problem what so ever. But ofcourse 2,5hp dosn't put nearly as much strain on things as two XP motor, having almost six times the power. But what we really need on the winch isn't speed but low end torque. See the annoying thing with the 8274 is the difference in speed. We resently took part in a comp where we had to winch from a mudhole and up a steep hill. We had a ninety on the team with a Single-XP powered 8274. Since my 88" only had a T-Max 11000 we decided to turn the ninety around and pull mine up using his 8274. But even before I got out of the mud, it dropped so much in speed that my T-Max was faster! Simply because it had the low end power. It's not fast but the speed is quite linear. I don't know if the only solution to this (besides Hydraulic or Mechanical) is the Gigglepin? What do you think? The only thing with the Gigglepin is that in order to really work you end up paying the same as a good fast Hydraulik setup..