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Posts posted by V8SMYMATE
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01708 436900
thx i will let u know
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I'm with Flux agreed value, don't remember having to garage the truck as a condition of the policy (it is garaged anyway though). I'll have to check the small print now
It maybe the area? but my area is considered quite good tho?
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Chaucer Ins. with agreed value policy for my standard RRC (car not garaged) arranged through Carole Nash 0800 298 5511.
thx i will try them
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I'm with performance direct and they agreed my value with all my mods on it.
Good quote too
have you got a tel number please
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Hi i wondererd out there who has agreed value insurance on there truck if so can some one give me the best ones to try.
I am with ADRIAN FLUX at present but they cant offer agreed value insurance as i cant garage the rangie overnight as it will not fit in, so they wont do it.
Any help on who would ?
Thanks
Duncan
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Thanks for your advice Gents, some thing simalar that older vechicls will be exempt and the new regs will be for new offroad vechicls, so i am off to buy them.
Duncan
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Banned from selling them in the future
thanks i also found this on devon 4x4.
Hi XXXXXXX,
Good question, at some stage, I believe, yes, along with any other tyre that is not “S” rated, this will rule out virtually ALL mud tyres, those that get a rating are likely to be cost prohibitive.
There is also the issue of the oil that is used for the manufacture of this type of tyre which is likely to take the cost of manufacturing beyond most people’s means.
I am told by those in the know, that within two years these tyres won’t be available. I don’t believe that it will effect an individual that already owns tyres such as these but they will no longer be legal to sell. I don’t know if there will be a way around these new laws such as sales to forestry workers only time will tell.
These comments are only my thoughts and understanding of the situation and are not necessarily correct, if you want a definitive answer I recommend that you contact the DOT.
best regards
Simon
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Banned from what exactly?
Banned from selling them in the future
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Hi all,
I have been hearing people say that off road tyres are going to be banned can anyone confirm or deny this? as i am about to buy another set of larger off road simexs,
thanks all
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You'll be looking around the £6/700 mark for a rebuild.
Thanks for that anyoneknow someone local?
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Hi all its been a while since i posted but need your advice, i have bought a 1995 disco v8 3,9.
i am looking for someone who rebuilds this type of engine ie topend (camshafts tapetts cam followers etc)and also bottom end rebuild, i know je and rimmer do this type of thing but are out of my price range.
is there some one around Wolverhampton area (i am willing to travel)if some one can recomend me someone also what do you guys reckon the cost would be.
thanks
Duncan
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The working fuel pressure, 36psi, decays while the engine is not running. There will be minute leakages through the non-return valve in the fuel pump and through the fuel pressure regulator. The purpose of the fuel pump priming pulse at ignition switch-on is restore the fuel pressure prior to engine starting.
This decay is noted in the LR hotwire system tests and limits are mentioned.
Check the fuel pressure whilst running the engine and then note the pressure decay after switch-off. Fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, dripping injectors or poor quality sections of fuel hose can cause rapid decay.
If the vehicle is stood for long periods it is not uncommon for rapid pressure decay to occur in the fuel pump non-return valve, in my case this cured itself when the vehicle was used regularly.
jw
Thanks i will check all hose and pressure. this does seem to fit my with my starting issues.
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Being '96 I'd assume it's a hotwire EFi, could be a duff coolant temperature sensor (the EFI one NOT the gauge sender), there's info on how to test them (and the whole system) in the tech archive.
Thanks i will look in the tech archive and test
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rAre you talking about starting from cold, if so then you should let the engine management take care of it and keep your foot off the throttle as that lets in more air and weakens the mixture.My starting is not instantaneous like some cars, takes at least three seconds to fire.
May be time to look at the fuel side of things. Have you replace fuel and air filters ?
Thanks for your post I am talking about starting from cold. i have not replaced the fuel filter, i will try that next? but reading your post maybe i am being too crictal as it will normally start 1.5 - 2 seconds.
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Hi All,
My 96 D1 V8 doesn,t seem to start very quickly i have bought a new bosch coil new leads, dizzy cap and rotor and plugs and set them correctly. I seem What else can i change to try to get better starting? the only thing i have not replaced is the battery,the reason i have not done this is because it turns her over quickly enough. i seem to have to put a little pressure on the gas when i turn her over to get her to start. once started seems to be much better.
Any idears?
Dunc
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Easy job......if you can jack the chassis up via the towball and leave the axle on the floor then you dont have to remove the prop from the gearbox end.
.....just unbolt the rubber and refit.
I did this job 3 months ago but i changed the prop all together and got rid of the donut. i found even the LR donut part was useless after a decent off road session, But to answer your question its 8 nuts/bolts and even if you have to take the prop off its an easy job.
duncan
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Hi to all,
I have been a plonker!!! changed my leads but must of got one or two wrong. When i check the various books the information seems at odds with its self?
can someone help me with a simple diagram looking from the front of the disco where each lead goes from the distributor to each pot.
THANKS
Duncan
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Depends how cheap the cheap paddocks bits were really. 33" is not so big I'd expect the standard setup to struggle. Try some genuine LR pads as a one-off (even they're not really expensive from Paddocks). I don't think expensive discs will make any real difference, it's not like yours are overheating. Apart from vented discs, which you don't need, the only real gains are from going to bigger discs, which also means new calipers, which means new mounts, etc. etc.
You say brake fluid is correct, but have you ever changed it? Old fluid can absorb moisture and give a naff feel to the brakes, when we got dad's RR it'd never been done, the fluid came out black with lumps in and afterwards it felt so much better, it really surprised me.
I have to admit i have not changed the brake fluid completly but when i changed all the pads and disc,s i did drain alot through?
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What condition are your current brakes in? Are we talking new genuine pads, or worn out mud-coated cheapo stuff? Are you sure your servo is working 100%, is the fluid fresh, etc.? Standard brakes are pretty good and shouldn't have a problem stopping the car, in fact you should be able to lock wheels up.
Assuming your setup is in tip-top condition, you could try some grippier pads such as EBC Greenstuff, before getting into things like bigger calipers, discs, etc.
I replaced all the disc,s and pads 1 month ago. i have done about 400 miles since, the wheels will lock up in the wet but not the dry, it stops in a stright line the brake fluid is correct and the servo seems fine (ie when you turn the engine on you can feel the pressure in the brake pedal). To be fair the disc,s and pads are only paddock specials. The Disco has got ABS but i have pulled the fuse in it, because it has played up before. How much different are the expensive pads/disc? are they worth the money bearing in mind when i go offroad i can go through a set of pads in three trips if the mud is a sand/clay mix. i was wondering by increasing the caliper/disc size i would compensate for the 33" tyre,s. I am going to 35" Simex,s in the future an this issue will get worse. I am not looking for F1 brake performance but want her to be able to lock the wheels wet or dry?
any advice gladly appreciated
Duncan
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i have a metalic sounding clunk when letting clutch out(thud like) quickly but when i take time its ok no sound its a 1991 200tdi any advice will be helpfull
cheers for all the help i have received,
all the best joe
Sounds like possible knacked thrust bearing and or clutch fork. you need to look into this a bit futher it could be a mulitude of things?
Duncan
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Hi to all,
I have a D1 V8 2"spring lift +2 spacer lift 33" tyres and i want to know what Brake upgrades are out there? i can't afford much but want to increase the stopping power because with the extra wieght of all the off road gear and larger tyres feels like i would be better throwing a brick out of the window.
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thanks thats great
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Hi to all
I think my heater matrix has sprung a leak as the floor is wet and sometimes steam pops through the demister / heater vents. Is this a difficult job to do? can anyone give me any advice on how to approach the job? Does the dash have to come out?
Ta
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I shouldn't say this but i have never had a spacer come loose. May i suggest that you make sure that the hub is spotlessly clean face to face and you threadlock the nuts to the right torque. A while back some of the cheaper spacers were removed from sales but i have noticed that they are back now. Are yours type approved?
yes they are type approved
3.9V8 cutting out
in Range Rover Forum
Posted
i WOULD CHECK THE COIL FIRST AS THE IGN MOD IS A PAIN TO CHANGE