V8 EFI

Looks to me he is using a OMVL R90 vaporizer, i'm not sure if this will gonna work. The OMVL is suppost to be working with a vacuum while a normal lpg system (injectors and ecu) work with a 1 bar vapour injection. Something like a Tomasetto would be a better choice i think.

Hi there, Did you find what you were looking for ?. Out of curiosity, as i'm running the same engine, what kind of mapping do you use know ?.

I've bought it secondhand by a Webasto dealer, about 300 Euro for a complete and refurbished unit including remote controle and timer. Its a thermotop E supposed to be for small cars, this might be the reason why its cheep but it is working ok!. Why ?. mm the V8 does warmup pretty fast so its not really necessary but its was cheep and fun to install. I'm driving on lpg and i can now switch it over from petrol to lpg a bit sooner. And yes on cold mornings is it nice to start in a warm car

Because i hate those unanswered questions i answer my own question. Maybe even i can help some one else too The return pipe on the side of the fueltank does go to the bottom of the tank, Its working perfectly !.

Thanks, its running now I've messed around with the PWM settings and found out the Valtek wont open under 2.8 ish and 30%. Its running horrible rich so i've lowered down the required fuel from 20 to 12 !. Its switching over between petrol and lpg with out any hesitation . It wont start on lpg but i guess they never do. I probably will have to tune it all over again for petrol and lpg as well, maybe petrol wont be that different its just that i've changed the pwm threshold and openings time. What is the difference between openings time and pwm time ?. Is it correct to think that pwm time is a period of time needed to open the injector (the peak before hold) while the injector opening time is a software value to compensate the openings time in relation to the VE and other bins ? I've started with a 2.5 ms for both and ended up (so far) with an openings time of 2.5 ms and a pwm time of 3 ms. Do they both need to be the same ?. Thanks.

You do have a point there. However there might be a slight problem. The Valtek injector openingstime is about 3 ms while the petrol injector is a lot shorter (1 ms) Switching between them will fry the petrol injectors i guess ?. so there is no way i can put a bigger number in then 1 ms. Is there away to avoid this ?.

Thanks for replying, it gives me hope again So if i understand it right i'm lucky to have low ohm petrol injectors as well ?. Would it be possible to find a kind of setting wich would be good for both ? because i cant change PWM when switching fuelmaps. I am considering to buy a 6 ohm injector to replace the 3 ohm injector, would this be better or just a wasted of money (i've already bought the 3 ohm types) ?. Frederik.

Hello squirters, Its quite amazing, today there is so much information about megasquirt. There must be at least thousands of users !. I've megasquirted my range rover 3.5 (ms1,v3 msns extra, 29v). Its running good on petrol now, ignition is also working fine. So its time to swap to lpg and this is where the trouble starts.........or maybe not? I've mounted some Valtek LPG vapour injectors wich are 3 ohm each. They are banked the same way as the petrol injectors and they will be fed with a relay to switch over from petrol to lpg. The petrol injectors are low ohm type injectors and are fed in combination with a RRC resistor. I've tried to controle the Valtek injectors in combination with a RRC resistor as well to limit the current but that does'nt work. The Valtek injectors are 12 volt will problably not work with a lower voltage so pwm its not a option ?. I've seen a injectorboard from jb perf.com and have mailed them, but this board does'nt work well with this kind of injectors. I've contacted Valtek Italy for a different kind of coil, they dont have the 6 ohm types anymore but Bigas does. Do you think 6 ohm lpg injectors will work with the same settings as the petrol injectors (pwm current limit 100%, 25 ms) ? and will the megasquit handle the current ?. Are there other modifications needed for my megasquirt ? maybe extra earth wiring inside the megasquirt ?. Does anyone have experience with this type of injectors and how to controle them ?. Thanks Frederik.

I'm in the middle of a lpg conversion and needed to get rit of the lpg hose (temporary). So i pushed the end of it it between firewall and gas throttle / kickdown lever to get it out of the way. I'm still not sure what happend, i guess this action caused the kickdown cable to get tight or stuck ?. I followed scube's advice, turned the throttle lever a view times by hand to check if cable was broken and tried again and it works again. To be honest i dont know, my autobox is shifting pretty good, although it does make a lot of noise when cold (caused by thick oil ?)

Turned out to be the kickdown cable. Once again THANKS Frederik.

I've checked the oil level right after a few attemps to drive (so i'm not sure if its correct because of all the reving), its seems to be ok. Might check that one again on a cold engine with the autobox in neutral. There is absolutely no movement at all, not even in 1 or in reverse allthough i can hear the drivechain 'cloncking' not as loud as normaly but still.. Will check the kickdowncable to morrow. I dont know what it would do if broken but check it anyway. The zf4 from 1988 is all mechanical is'nt it?, there is no extra solenoid valve blocking some oil chanel ? Thanks for replying, Frederik.

Hi all, I've got a problem, my range rover autobox wont shift in gear, its like trying to drive with the foot on the brakes. It does buildup some pressure and it wont rev up easely in any gear but doesnt move at all. The wheels are freely spinning in N when jacked up and they are blocked in P. So i guess its not the parking pawl ?. I've had some difficulties in the past with starting in P, i had to pull the lever all the way forwards before it would start. Right know the car will start in P so it cant be the inhibitor switch right?. Does the switch (if its broken down) block the autobox some how ?. All idears are welkom, i do need the car for work. Thanks, Frederik.

Hello, I've resently bought a used Webasto parking heater for my 1988 3.5 V8 Classic. I've googled around and found some instructions, according to the Webasto manual i should connect a T-pipe to the fuel return pipe nearby the tank. Would this work for my car, just slice in a T piece in de return pipe near to the tank ?. Is the return pipe in the tank itself long enough to reach the bottom of the tank ?. And is it hard to get to the tank (fuelpump connections) ?. Does anyone have some ideas ?. Thanks again, Frederik. (Could'nt find anything with the search button, there are a lot of Webasto diesels though )

Thanks for the replies, they are quit usefull !. I'm looking for something not to expensive and a bit robust. I'm afraid the panasonic is way to expensive for me for this application. I've found three items suitable for me so far. 1) Fujitsu LT-C 500; seems to have a serial connector and 10.5 inch bright indoor / outdoor sreen, its light and in combination with a small docking station a lot of extra connections (USB ethernet etc). Windows XP 2) Archos 9; Good looking, 9 inch screen, windows 7 based, kind of slow. 3) Samsung Q1-EX 71G; Also good looking, its got a camera not very important though. 7 inch touchscreen. It runs a tablet version of windows dont know if thats nogood for programs like tunerstudio ?. Also a bit slow. For now i think the Fujitsu might be a good solution, agree ? Does anyone have bad experience with one of these ?. Thanks. And not to forget, they have also a pen for the touchscreen, specialy for my fatty fingers

Hello, This morning my laptop crashed, its pretty annoying because i still have a lot of tuning to do (and without its like riding in the dark) Its probably asked many times before but there mightbe some new ideas rightnow. I'm thinking of buying a pc tablet, do you guys have any experience with this kind of pc's and what would you suggest ?. Maybe this is not the right place to ask, in that case does anyone know a site which is ?. Thanks, Frederik.

Hi there, Out of pure desperation i've decided to connect the old lpg system back to engine and disconnect the petrol part. And.. it runs smooth even on the new megasquirt controled coilpacks the usual power and respons I'm completely lost now, it did run pretty well on petrol, the car has stand still for a while in my garage, a lot of bolts have corroded, my startermotor feed cable has also corroded so........... Can it be that the injectors has passed out, maybe because of the backfire ? Something to do with corrosion on the resistorpack (low impedance injectors) ?. Something i want to do now is clean the injectors by a specialist. Is it maybe wise to replace them by high resistor type injectors and ditch the resistorpack ?. And if so can anyone recommend me a supplier and nummers for a 3.5 V8 EFI, are they exchangeable with for example 3.9 types ?. Thanks, greetings Frederik

Hello all, After a succesfull megasquirt injection installing i decided to go a step further and install the ignition part. When i turned the ignition key back (during installation) the coilpack (VW jetta type) discharged with a lout bang on a not running engine. The engine starts quickly, idle is smooth, without load it revs up nice, seems to be a little mechanical noice but not that much. When i put it in Drive (autobox) it starts to run uneven, hearing a puffing, spluttering sound. There's absolutly no power in it, it won't rev to the normal 2000 rpm, but there are no backfires. Checked: - Vacuum leaks, nothing - Changed valley gasket, sealed inlet plenum, nothing - Connected a mechanical vacuumgauge, stable strong vacuum - Timing is correct, sparks are there - Already changed earth straps and 12 V to startermotor / battery, it solved a not starting problem before - New battery, 14 volt during running on volt gauge in dashboard - Changed sparkplugs BPR6 ES, nothing - Checked fuelpressure and flow, steady 2 bar, half bottle in seconds - Did compression check, lowest 140, highest 170, with little oil all are about 165 - Checked rockerarm, valves seems to follow nicely, blankmetal/brown color no signs of wear - After i've build the inlet back on, it started good and powerfull, but when i stopped the motor to fill the coolant and started it again it it runs powerless again !. - Changed the VW jetta coilpacks back to the original 35DML8 distributer, exactly the same results - Changed the Lucas coil, i could hear the oil splashing in it !. no result - Checked distributor,, vacuumadvance is working, centrifugal advance looks ok, no cracks Started thinking about diesel conversion To be honest, i've run out of idears. The loud bang during installation worries me a bit. This winther it started to run badly on lpg when cold (the reason why i want to megasquirt it) Can anyone put in some advice ? all idears are welkom !. Thanks in advance, Frederik.

Right then, guess where all far away enjoying the sun !. Must be cause its awfully quite here . Anyhow it gave me more time to find out what all the wires where about. I checked all the wiring and the configuration of the MS over and over again and found nothing bad. It turned out to be that right after the moment i disconnected the old coil and cut out a few wires the startmotor was'nt getting all the current it needed. The powercable from the battery looked pretty good on the outside but was not OK at all !. I certainly did not thought this to be possible but it was !. I changed a few earth wires as well and all is running good now Time for me to start tuning and most of all ....... enjoying the Megasquirt

Hello all, To avoid the "wont stop" problem of my V8 i've wired the ms directly on the brown/orange wire of the original master relay and it worked quite well.. until now . What i have done so far is: built a new loom to injectors with a few relays in it, cut the brown/orange wire (original injector feed) on the master realy and connected it to the ms. Started reading about tuning etc etc and drove a view miles (km's) with succes. Next thing i did was connecting the two vw/jetta coilpacks and checked the working of them while still running the old distributer. It worked and i removed the distributer and and started on the new coilpacks with succes. After a view miles it started running bad however this problem is likely caused by a bad white wire to the master relay. Touching the wire made the fuel pump run again while the engine was'nt running so it should problemly reset the megasquirt for a short time. However when i drove it home it would'nt stop directly, it kind of died slowly. I already disconnected the wires from the coil to the distributer and now disconnect the compleet coil (yes the old one) But now it wont start at all ! at least it kindof starts and dies ride away. There is no smell of petrol and i have the feeling its only fed during cranking !, So my question is, whats best to do with the wires to the old (removed) coil ? Why cant the white wire to the original master relay not be used like it was in the original setup to feed the 4CU. And if so what is the best place to get 12 volt wich is alive during cranking and running?. Thanks in advance, Frederik.

Hi there, After a lot of reading and tryouts i've managed to get the 'beast' out of my garage and running pretty wel by tuning it, thanks again for all the information! I do have a question (one of many) When starting from cold it hasitates a bit and after a bit extra gas (throttle) it picks-up and runs smoothly during AE and WE. Could it be that the old flapper (i'm still driving with a OMVL lpg vacuum vaporizer) is choking it ?. Or do i have to search in the cranking pw and "extra fuel for cranking" options ? Otherwise by adding more and more fuel until it does without throttle interference?. Adding more fuel in the very low map/rpm range is'nt usefull because its still not reading the VE map OK ?. Another question about the TPS Floodclear(raw) setting in the More Cranking Stuff menu: Is it only for Cranking ?, couse i'm driving an autobox and don't want it to come in before the kickdown does ( i do have to put my foot all the way down for that). Many thanks, Frederik. (It is really nice to fiddle around with megasuirt and get it better and better every day)

Hello Quentin, Might be a little late but this what i'm building right now, the photos are a bit dark, sorry for that They are 3 ohm Valtek injectors with a Tomasetto vaporizor (not vacuum but dampgas) special lpg hoses and nozzles with a calibrated hole in it . I've drilled holes in the inlet manifold nearby the petrol injectors. Dont know if the vaporizer is up to this job, its suitable for a V8 with maximum of 100 kW. However i dont rev it up that much cause i'm driving a autobox. I have it connected to the megasquirt but it will be the last thing for me to tune, first petrol and ignition. By the way Mine is running now Frederik.