Mark

yeah, I didn't say it would be cheap....

I believe the waeco is a compressor unit, so similar current draw to the Engel - which is around 1A on 12V. The socket shown is also similar to the Engel one, but not the same. It does look to be up to dealling with 1A though... It might be worth talking to Simon at MPS4x4 as they import the Waeco range, and stock a number of accessories. If not he also has contacts with thier repair centre who may well have the socket you require. Both Simon and the repair centre are very helpful. hth Mark

I have heard of people swapping a later (post 2002) style axle for a salisbury because of the strength - ie the salisbury is stronger. I had no problem sourcing an axle when I needed it, and whilst it was for an earlier vehicle it fitted without issue. The later axle has a shorter diff nose, so would also need the proshaft replaceing for the later type too.

Why?

Sounds very familiar - new take brown purple springs from Sodbury and low mileage yellow/red/greens from billing for a very sensible price. I did then put OME shocks on tho...

My 2001 td5 110 has or had exactly the same issues as yours (and more), and I have been working my way though them, on the basis that at the end of it, I'll have a vehicle that I know inside and out, along with which I know the history of a large percentage of it. The truck had done 148k when I got it, and in just under 2 years is now at just over 160k miles. So far, I have replaced the DMF, cluctch, gearbox (and transferbox, as it was bolted to the gearbox), propshafts, rear axle (too much wear in the diff - decided to replace the entire axle, and rebuild with all new bearings and gaskets), springs and shocks, fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator. I have also replaced the rear cross member, which wasn't as bad a job as I expected. I have rebuilt one swivel with a new chrome ball, and the otherside will also be done soon, along with a replacement front diff. The turbo is not happy, and a replacement has been sourced, so will get done shortly. The headgasket and dowels will also get done at the same time I suspect. I have also done a fair bit of tidying up the interior and other cosmetic bits - a comeplete set of 4 doors is in the cards too. my philosophy is that a tatty looking truck is generally less likley to attract the wrong attention, and would not inhibit me using it for what it is designed for - laning in a shiney truck always leads to tears! Most of this has been done by using decent 2nd hand parts and/or refurbing stuff myself - the doors will be repaired and reskinned rather than buying new. My point is that none of the stuff you mention is that difficult to do, and whilst it will require some pennies, intelligent sourcing and a bit of patience can see this significantly reduced...

Worth investigating the state of wear of the drive flanges too

Written by our very own superpants, anyone doing wiring on their truck should have a quick read of this on Instructables Enjoy Mark

You need to be careful towing with the freelander - I know several horsey types who have been pulled for towing twin horseboxes on them, which puts them overweight. One of the reasons the FL2 is a bigger car is to get the toing weight up for the equestrian brigade.

The discoparts one I had on my disco recommended welding some 6mm into the chassis where it mounted to the chassis.

As far as I know it fits the TDS and the superwinch ep9 and ep9i. Looking at the champion winch, it doesn't look like it is based on the king one design, so I would say no...

That probably wouldn't worry Jerry too much though Kev...

flakey....

How odd... I was also out on the 30th with James and Kev, but hadn't made the connection that Barry is CW despite sitting and talking to you over lunch! Doh. I didn't join the group till after we passed the other guys tho as I had to work...

If the pad wear is uneven, then it is worth checking to see if you have a siezed caliper piston.

spanner racks in your shallow drawers work well - the alligator teeth kind. I bought some that were self adhesive, and spent a little bit of time putting the spanners in size order. Sad, possibly, but as as soon as one isn;t there, you know about it! something like these: spanner racks

Agreed, go for the tool chests. The halfords ones are often on offer just after Christmas ...

There is a dedicated primer available for the combi-color which is good and similarly quick drying, however I have also used bonda primer with some success. It is a different chemical base though so needs plenty of time to dry (like 5days or so) before over coating with the combi color. I was quoted 35 quid to powdercoating a winch bumper... Hth Mark

I have found the rustoleum combi-color to be really good. I am surprised you are finding that it is causing problems unless there is an issue with surface prep? It doesn't go straight onto new fresh bare metal very well, so is best used with a primer in that situation, bit otherwise its good.

No offence taken Mark, I wondered if that's what you were getting at, but it was Chris I was chatting to at the end... so that is the name that stuck with me. For this event, I was the co-driver/navigator for our team (car 18) with Kev driving. My comments were based on the faces I know to talk to, rather than what role they played in a team.... Mark

Good question, I kind of assumed Chris was driving, but didn't catch up with them till the end of the day tbh...

Kev and I had a really good day. Something I have not really done before, but will quite likley do again. Looking at the scores, hats off to Chris Bowler - 5 penalties across 6 phases is really impressive! Cheers Mark

I can second that - far better than my (now deformed) box spanner. And you can get a torque wrench on it to do it up properly too. All my td5 hubs have been swapped to the older style double nut arrangement.

Alternately there's an engine stand in Horsham you could use....

Told you...