Jump to content

Mark

Settled In
  • Posts

    2,792
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Mark

  1. You need to have a chat with Retroanaconda - he has a lot of in depth knowledge of these looms...
  2. The holes all look to be good - although to be fair I left it on sunday night with the fuel tank still on the floor - waiting for a new tank strap from land rover, as mine was mostly rotted away You know I don't really do shiney cars, but I have made a start on the doors...
  3. meant to also say i am going to try Dinitrol Corromax to rust proof...
  4. I did mine this weekend just gone... Towbar and fuel tank will need to come out. I left the rear floor in - if you cut at the bottom of the dip, there is enough room to get all the way round with the welder. I also left the wiring loom intact - I cut a new hole for it to come through the side of the chassis, cut a slot and moved it up the chassis. it now runs just under the load bed bed rather than through the chassis - it saves cutting and rejoining, and since you are welding it up anyway... The exhaust I left in place - just dropped it off 2 of the hangers... there's some pictures here: Rear crossmember hth Mark
  5. Seb, you will find that there is a fuel tank in the way... Mark
  6. Some time ago, I asked about rear crossmember replacement options for my td5 110, and other than the usual suspects the name that seemed to come up was MIB components. So, not being one to rush into things, I had a chat with them at the July version of the Newbury sortout this year, and had a good look at their replacement crossmembers, and was pretty impressed with the quality of what they were producing, and what they were trying to achieve. Again, leaving some time to think, I spoke to them again on the phone a couple of weeks before the september Newbury sourtout, as I wanted to check they would be bringing what I was after with them - they weren't, but could make one for me, and bring it. I ordered thier heavy duty replacement crossmember, which means the main box is made of 3mm rather than 2mm steel. Other than that it would be completely standard. However, since they were making it up for me, I also asked if they could add some recovery eyes into the cross member, tied into the main chassis rail sections - something I had intended to do were I to make up a crossmember myself. They were more than happy to include these modifications, and charged a very reasonable amount to do so. So, at Newbury, I took delivery of my new replacement crossmember :-) - I had left it on thier stand most of the day, and they also mentioned they had had several other enquiries for crossmembers with recovery eyes built in, so this may now become a standard product offered. Got it home, and looked at it next to my truck, at which point I noticed a slight issue - which obviously was to do with the modifications I had asked for - essentially they had used the 2 sets of holes for the tailgate hinges to open up and pass the loop through for my recovery eyes. My 110 is a doublecab, and I rather like my tailgate, so I gave them a call.... MIB were very apologetic, and organised a courier to pick the wrong one up, made a new one, with the recovery eyes where they wouldn't interfere with the tailgate, and sent it back to me. So, having spent the weekend taking my old, very rusty crossmember off, and fitting my shiney new MIB one, I am very pleased - no alignment issues, really strong quality part, and with my extra mods. So, well done to MIB - firstly for a top quality product, and secondly for a good attitude and customer service. Cheers. Ps. Here's some pictures ;-)
  7. We run 35mm^2 for each motor on our truck, so 60mm^2 is overkill - not that that's a bad thing. So long as it is decent multi-strand copper then go for it. Mark
  8. I understood that they were no longer taking on new customers for 4x4 insurance, but they would continue to cover existing customers. If they are terminating existing policies at renewwal, then that is a development....
  9. Dan, Lovely work on the new hairnet for Jon's truck... Mark
  10. they are 52mm. A box spanner is available from most LR places, or alternately Laser do a deep socket specifically for this, which despite being a bit more expensive than the box spanner, is far superior imho hth Mark
  11. Oddly enough I have done exactly the same - both 2nd Row and the nearside front, but can't find the o/s front. I haven't got round to doing anything about the frames yet though, so I have been hoping one would crop up... Would be interested to know if you do find any...
  12. As has been said - when using Jate rings, (or similar between those point on the chassis) using two rings and a bridle between them is preferable. With regards 8.8 vs 10.9 vs 12.9 rated bolts, remember that the first part is the breaking strain and the second half is the percentage of the breaking strain at which deformation occurs. ie, an 8.8 bolt will break at 800 N/mm^2 but be permanently deformed at 80% of that breaking strain (640 N/mm^2) the 10.9 bolt will have a much higher breaking strain (1000 N/mm^2), and will also deform at a higher strain (90% = 900N/mm^2), but will give less warning that it is going to break. It is however, still intrinsically stronger as the 8,8 bolt will have broken long before the 10.9 bolt will have started to deform! hth Mark
  13. Black will look too heavy - there's a lot of tube there... Fully colour matched will disappear, so personally I would paint the cage the same red as the lower half of the truck. Mark
  14. Current is drawn rather than supplied. That is, something that can supply 6.5A will happily power something only drawing 3.5A. provided the plugs fit, it sounds like it should be ok. The lind supplies are good quality bits of kit. Cheers Mark
  15. I bought new genuine mounts for my td5 when I changed the gearbox, and was also rather surprised at the cost - However I don't regret spending the money. Even the old (genuine) ones were not very happy (after 145k miles) so I don't think pattern ones would hold up to the td5.
  16. Here's how I build the ones in my disco: drawer build I have to admit that for the 110 I have gone with the standard length MSS drawer, as the spare wheel is stored against the bulkhead in my doublecab. In terms of getting them drawer not to rattle, the foam draft excluder around edge gives enough spring for the latch to be held tight and not rattle. hth Mark
  17. I'll be at newbury - far better chance of finding interesting stuff whilst getting rid of tat other interesting stuff...
  18. Ben, What is your tub lined with? been thinking about something but the products available in the states are not available here... I like the long line drawer - I have the normal one in my DC with the spare wheel as well....
  19. It might also be worth saying that there are a number of electronic ground plane products available, for plastic, canvas, or possibly aluminium roofed vehicles. never tried one, and would probably take some advice, but since no-one has mentioned them yet I thought I would...
  20. I have a small kenwood unit which is basically an 8" driver in a sealed box integrated with the amp etc. that we use in the Fabia which far outperforms it's size - However, it is not as compact as the Blaupunkt above. I had been considering resurrecting some bits of sub I had kicking about, but that is a far neater solution. cheers.
  21. Thanks for the constructive responses chaps... I am really not after spending big money - I have a tweak on the ECU and a big intercooler, and frankly that's plenty powerful on an engine thats fairly long in the tooth. The VNT idea sounds great but I suspect is too much money... Is the Garret unit an upgrade, or a direct replacement? Cheers Mark
  22. I noticed on our recent jaunt to Wales that my turbo is really very noisy on my 156k mile old TD5.... This leads me to believe that it is not very happy, and I would rather have thought about, and possibly acted upon this before it becomes an immediate issue. So, having never replaced a turbo I wondered what options were out there... Replace with new or recon unit? replace with secondhand unit? uprate turbo with something a bit more fun - maybe something with a variable geometry? Anyone have any direct experience? Are Disco TD5 turbos the same as defender ones? Cheers Mark
  23. I like it, the only thing that puts me off getting one is that I have no idea of the providence of the motors. For the money though, it looks like a cracking bit of kit. Mark
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy