Mark

Dave, I shall find out for you and update... Mark

OK - presumably on a Doublecab it should be as per the CSW?

It's a fair point, but the lack of exemplar truck makes it a little difficult... Having seen a few pictures of other ones though, you are correct - the brackets don't look terribly complicated, I was really after working out where they pick up on on the chassis. I am probably not going to worry too much about the tree slider bars - however, if I was, I would bend the tube oversize, as tight as possible, and cut accross tube effectively at an angle.... Will post some pictures up when I get beyond the 'planning at work' phase... Any pictures still very much appreciated! Mark

Planning to make myself a set of southdown style rock sliders for my 110, since southdown are no longer producing them. Could someone who does have a set possibly take some pictures of the bracketry which hold them to the chassis? alternately, if anyone has a set they would like to sell, let me know Cheers Mark

I have read a couple of threads about the joins within the defender door frame being brazed rather than welded.... Essentially this means that if you go to the effort of galvanising them, they then fall apart as the brazed joint melts... I am starting to consider a plan to refurb my doors, and the idea of galvanising the frames before reskinning them is very appealing, so could anyone tell me which joints are brazed - on both front and 2nd row defender doors? Cheers Mark

I have a freelander head unit spare, but I couldn't tell you if it is a c42.... Mark

I was there too... there didn't seem to be a huge amount of stalls, but what was there was actually pretty good. I managed to spend loads despite the relative quiet!

Not exactly extending the seat base, but I have investigated moving the seat back farther back, leaving the base in the same position. This was mainly as an alternative to mud rails or the like, to get more leg room, without the associated 2" lift that you get with rails. However, it woud also serve the same purpose you are after. I was thinking along the lines of splitting the seat frame where the back section bolts into the seat section, and moving it back ~ 75mm. Then by using a piece of angle drilled to pick up on the original holes it could be bolted back together.... Bad explanation, I am afraid, and i ended up just living with the mud rails, as I wasn't convinced that the extra gap between the base and the back was desirable. I can post up the drawing of the required new bracket though if it is of any use? Cheers Mark

The truck cab has an extra set of cleats, just in front of the line of the truck cab : This is a picture from my IIa, but they didn't change them...

Did you leave them in A&E? :P

I upped my milage allowance with them this year to 6k - as I was getting close travelling to competitions etc. They will happily up the mileage, but it will be covered by a different underwriter, so the premium might change slightly. The scheme they have negotiated is specifically for sub 5k miles, over 10 years old, and the more modified the better....

He's done some for me too - it is impressive to watch, as Lee is very good at it, but he does it all day, every day - I wouldn't have the skill to do it straight off myself. However, I have used several tyre machines, after being shown once.... I guess if the guy doing the tyres is always the same, and they have the time and opportunity to develop the skills, then the manual tool is good. If there are several people using the machine, and they are only doing so sporadically then maybe the machine would be more efficient.... just a thought, Mark

I use a td5 110 to drag our 90 to competitions. It has been chipped and has an uprated intercooler on it too, and does far better mpg with the chip than it did without. It will happily sit at 60 all day without issue, although the transmission does get a little warm on a run... hth Mark

Go and see Steve at Kevin Griffin Cars. Very helpful, and they know their way around land rovers of all ages (or at least all the ones I have taken in there) Cheers Mark

John, Cheers for that - the od is fine for what I was trying to work out... no need to take the top off. Was basically trying to see if I could swap the top for a different one, but it is looking unlikley. If I were to go for it, I would probably make a new top up completely... Cheers Mark

Great trip, and a really nicely done video too. thanks for posting! Mark

Does anyone know the diameter of the steel tube included in the military/land rover snorkel (this one)? ta Mark

A while ago, you used to be able to buy a very simple tube notcher from the likes of Northern Tool. Northern Tool stopped stocking this a while ago, but it would appear they are now available from Frosts: Tube Notcher Just thought I would post up the link in case anyone was after one, and was struggling to find them... Mark

Topic split for you Neil. Mark

Discussions on a new challenge league have been split to here

Excellent, thanks ben.

Would appreciate a parts list as there isn't a top end gasket set available from land rover. I did the loom about a year ago, so I'm not going to replace that, but I will do the dowels. Cheers Mark

Cheers James, might well take you up on that.

guess that's this weekends job then... Ben, did you find yourself replacing anything else in the process of changing the head gasket? I am going to have to get it done this weekend as I need the truck working next week....

Been reading through this thread with great interest after seeing a few odd and seemingly unrelated symptoms on my truck over the weekend.... wondered if anyone had any further opinions... Having topped the coolant tank up on my 110, I smelt the unmistakeable smell of hot coolant having escaped from somewhere on the truck when I turned it off. I am pretty sure I didn't overfill it, and so long as I trust the gauge I didn't manage to overheat it. The gauge starts at cold, and gradually moves to just before halfway, and stays there. It does not move beyond halfway ever. When I investigated the smell, it would appear like the header tank has vented, as there was a tide mark around the outside of it. I undid the bleed screw on the top hose, and got a constant stream of coolant there. So, assuming the gauge works, and I haven't overheated, I need to check that the pump is pumping - as per the procedure above. The truck has always 'used' a little coolant which I had put down to a weeping hose or similar, however it has never ejected it en-masse. It has always been checked and topped up a little, and is not down on power at all. The vehicle has done 155k miles, and I have no idea if a head gasket has ever been done on it - it is long overdue however it it hasn't according to the ideas above. Does anyone have any opinions based on these symptoms? Last time I had similar problems, of the coolant system pressurising it was a cracked head, but that was on a 300 that had most definitely boiled! Cheers Mark