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MikeD

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About MikeD

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  • Location
    East Midlands
  1. more ideas take a look at dzus and/or camloc fasteners. Typically used for holding aircraft panels. I tried looking at their tensile strengths but couldn't decide whether they were strong enough. they make versions that take coins and allen keys alternatively use rivnuts and bolts, I have previously welded repair washers on edge to the head of a high tensile bolt to make them quick to remove without tools as long as you don't use vastly over length bolts then 4 bolts aren't too difficult to remove with a quarter inch socket set I have also thought about having flanges fitte
  2. I found that lifting the back to get the seat base level meant I was so high that I restricted my view up the road and I am only 6ft tall so not excessive I did find it uncomfortable with no lift as the seat squab pressed under my thighs I did make some sloping runners out of 2mm steel to fit a range rover seat in but then sold the seat to someone who needed it for its original purpose. I just folded bits and stuck them together
  3. I don't think I have seen one with any multiway connectors like that in the radio area, are you sure that is where they should be? as the loom does have similar connectors on the other side of the bulkhead in the engine bay which run out through the circular grommet in the middle of the bulkhead. I also cannot imagine why there would be a handbrake cable in the centre, I would expect that in the dash pod to connect up to the warning light in the instrument cluster
  4. I am looking at aftermarket gearbox oil coolers and I know the oil pressure measured on a gauge plumbed in to the connection on the front of the auto box should show 100psi at idle and 150psi at 200rpm according to the service manual (both +- 5psi) I have two questions 1. is this the pressure that would be found in the oil cooler and its plumbing? 2. would the pressure go higher at a higher rpm? looking at the motamec cooler it is rated at 145psi and the mocal at 150psi so both are borderline for the service manual pressure
  5. black/blue colour says its the wire to the diff lock switch from the diff lock warning light does it come out of the loom before it goes through the chassis?
  6. We had a 200 that used glass fuses of course it could have previously been a TD but it did have a defender version of the engine
  7. Very helpful thank you Neil the transfer box came from an rrc (might have been useful to say that earlier) so I wasn't sure if it would need the same gear with a defender speedo I'll try the cooler pipes with jubilee clips and once the setup is proven I could get some proper pipes made great info on the sender number thanks again
  8. I wondered if anyone "knew" the answers to the following questions and was willing to share their knowledge 😀 The 3.9 is a non cat non lambda v belt efi version with an auto box 1. Do I need to run the speedo cable with the transducer with it? I was planning on a straight defender type cable but have recently read that this will upset the 14cux and make it problematic coming back to idle from overrun as the ecu won't know the roadspeed. If I have to use this does anyone know the best colour drive gear to use for a 200tdi speedo head. 2. I have read the v belt temperature sensor
  9. I have had mine re-cored with a pressure washable core which the place (Kempston Radiators in Bedford) keep for JCBs and similar seemed like a good idea especially when you go wading and your radiator clogs up with sand 😠. they did the calculations to make sure the cooling would be sufficient
  10. Premier Galvanizing in Corby, they operate a collect and deliver service which happens to cover Bedfordshire. I will know how good it all was when I get things back next wednesday Wedge Sawtry told me that their group policy (set 2 to 3 years ago) is that the only land rover parts they will do now is a chassis. Maybe Haverhill is a bit more flexible won't know the price until they have done the job as I have quite a number of other bits to get done as well but they have a minimum price of £75 and the collect/delivery is £45, both plus vat back 4 years ago wedge sawtry did a bulk
  11. Found somebody who will collect, galvanise and return Happy again now 😃
  12. Hi, got my pile of blasted and repaired bits repaired and ready and rang the Wedge place at Sawtry to arrange galvanising and got "Sorry we don't do anything other than chassis these days" Has anyone had a bulkhead galvanised recently and if so where? Ideally close to Bedfordshire/Hertfordshire but when you have spent loads of time blasting and repairing things I might be more willing to travel now 😒
  13. good luck with that, I have just "rescued" a foot from a corroded pillar and there are quite a few spot welds to remove, luckily for me I need to replace the pillar anyway have you had a good look at the rest of the chassis? that is fairly heavy corrosion and you may be close to being better off replacing the chassis
  14. we got a pair from headedwindscreen for my sons series and were happy with the ease of fitting and the quality of the glass he would have liked them to work a bit faster and sometime I will run an additional heavy cable to reduce the volt drop a bit as I think it was 11.5 at the screen contacts even with the engine running They are heated windscreens and they work, if I had more early starts I would be happy to buy a defender one from them Previously my son bought a Pilkington screen for his defender from ebay which we fitted ourselves and I wired for him. Generally this worked
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