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Everything posted by MikeD

  1. more ideas take a look at dzus and/or camloc fasteners. Typically used for holding aircraft panels. I tried looking at their tensile strengths but couldn't decide whether they were strong enough. they make versions that take coins and allen keys alternatively use rivnuts and bolts, I have previously welded repair washers on edge to the head of a high tensile bolt to make them quick to remove without tools as long as you don't use vastly over length bolts then 4 bolts aren't too difficult to remove with a quarter inch socket set I have also thought about having flanges fitte
  2. I found that lifting the back to get the seat base level meant I was so high that I restricted my view up the road and I am only 6ft tall so not excessive I did find it uncomfortable with no lift as the seat squab pressed under my thighs I did make some sloping runners out of 2mm steel to fit a range rover seat in but then sold the seat to someone who needed it for its original purpose. I just folded bits and stuck them together
  3. I don't think I have seen one with any multiway connectors like that in the radio area, are you sure that is where they should be? as the loom does have similar connectors on the other side of the bulkhead in the engine bay which run out through the circular grommet in the middle of the bulkhead. I also cannot imagine why there would be a handbrake cable in the centre, I would expect that in the dash pod to connect up to the warning light in the instrument cluster
  4. I am looking at aftermarket gearbox oil coolers and I know the oil pressure measured on a gauge plumbed in to the connection on the front of the auto box should show 100psi at idle and 150psi at 200rpm according to the service manual (both +- 5psi) I have two questions 1. is this the pressure that would be found in the oil cooler and its plumbing? 2. would the pressure go higher at a higher rpm? looking at the motamec cooler it is rated at 145psi and the mocal at 150psi so both are borderline for the service manual pressure
  5. black/blue colour says its the wire to the diff lock switch from the diff lock warning light does it come out of the loom before it goes through the chassis?
  6. We had a 200 that used glass fuses of course it could have previously been a TD but it did have a defender version of the engine
  7. Very helpful thank you Neil the transfer box came from an rrc (might have been useful to say that earlier) so I wasn't sure if it would need the same gear with a defender speedo I'll try the cooler pipes with jubilee clips and once the setup is proven I could get some proper pipes made great info on the sender number thanks again
  8. I wondered if anyone "knew" the answers to the following questions and was willing to share their knowledge 😀 The 3.9 is a non cat non lambda v belt efi version with an auto box 1. Do I need to run the speedo cable with the transducer with it? I was planning on a straight defender type cable but have recently read that this will upset the 14cux and make it problematic coming back to idle from overrun as the ecu won't know the roadspeed. If I have to use this does anyone know the best colour drive gear to use for a 200tdi speedo head. 2. I have read the v belt temperature sensor
  9. I have had mine re-cored with a pressure washable core which the place (Kempston Radiators in Bedford) keep for JCBs and similar seemed like a good idea especially when you go wading and your radiator clogs up with sand 😠. they did the calculations to make sure the cooling would be sufficient
  10. Premier Galvanizing in Corby, they operate a collect and deliver service which happens to cover Bedfordshire. I will know how good it all was when I get things back next wednesday Wedge Sawtry told me that their group policy (set 2 to 3 years ago) is that the only land rover parts they will do now is a chassis. Maybe Haverhill is a bit more flexible won't know the price until they have done the job as I have quite a number of other bits to get done as well but they have a minimum price of £75 and the collect/delivery is £45, both plus vat back 4 years ago wedge sawtry did a bulk
  11. Found somebody who will collect, galvanise and return Happy again now 😃
  12. Hi, got my pile of blasted and repaired bits repaired and ready and rang the Wedge place at Sawtry to arrange galvanising and got "Sorry we don't do anything other than chassis these days" Has anyone had a bulkhead galvanised recently and if so where? Ideally close to Bedfordshire/Hertfordshire but when you have spent loads of time blasting and repairing things I might be more willing to travel now 😒
  13. good luck with that, I have just "rescued" a foot from a corroded pillar and there are quite a few spot welds to remove, luckily for me I need to replace the pillar anyway have you had a good look at the rest of the chassis? that is fairly heavy corrosion and you may be close to being better off replacing the chassis
  14. we got a pair from headedwindscreen for my sons series and were happy with the ease of fitting and the quality of the glass he would have liked them to work a bit faster and sometime I will run an additional heavy cable to reduce the volt drop a bit as I think it was 11.5 at the screen contacts even with the engine running They are heated windscreens and they work, if I had more early starts I would be happy to buy a defender one from them Previously my son bought a Pilkington screen for his defender from ebay which we fitted ourselves and I wired for him. Generally this worked
  15. @teabag - spot on, well done now I know what it is I found an old thread on here where the identical part had been discussed in 2007! https://forums.lr4x4.com/topic/14516-can-you-identify-this-component/ shame that after all this it appears to be faulty but it exercised the grey cells for a while and at least I know this won't be why the engine doesn't restart when I eventually get around to connecting it to fuel and volts 😁 thank you to everyone who participated
  16. @teabag, looks similar but this is from a classic rather than a P38 so not a BTR9733 If it is a switch to turn the heated washers on then it must be broken because it was 0.3 ohms after being in the freezer for 24 hours and 0.3 ohms several hours later when it had got up to 26.6 room temperature
  17. Just found one for sale on ebay as a Range Rover Classic RRC Heated Windshield Washer Temperature Sensor Switch but I didn't have a heated windscreen and the sensor isn't anywhere near the washer maybe it is supposed to switch the squirter off if the temperature goes below freezing just chucked it in the freezer, probably find it in my dinner next week 😂
  18. it must be oem as the wires from the plug go into the main car loom in the engine bay, not easy to trace once it is in there. I may find where that colour comes out i'm sure I will find out what it is for when I cannot get something working on the engine 😀
  19. I forgot to say this was a 92 Vogue EFI with AC and this didn't have any form of temperature readout on the dash it looks like it could be a temp sender but it only measures 0.3 to 0.4 ohms at room temperature. it does measure the same in both polarities and I guess it may change with temperature I am not expecting it to have any value but was more curious to find out what it might be I spent a long time looking for online evidence of what it might be and even spent time looking at wiring diagrams to see if I could spot Red/Slate wire colours
  20. Dismantling an RRC and have a small sensor that came off the drivers side headlight panel and no idea what it is for It is connected on two wire, one of which is Red/Slate, anyone recognise it?
  21. That makes sense. the bushes are fitted but are now just one solid lump. I think the bolt should clamp on the inner one which should then turn in the outer. I couldn't see any signs on the bolt that the arm was rotating on it so couldn't make sense of it I will have a go at removing the inner bush and either clean it or get a new one Thank you for the diagram it was just what I had been looking for but couldn't find
  22. Simple thing but I am hoping someone can help. Several years ago my son took the arm off that links the handbrake cable to the bit that sticks out of the handbrake drum because he thought it would do for something else. I have the arm and want to reuse the gearbox and borg warner but cannot see what the correct way to fit the arm back to the transfer box is. Sounds stupid as the arm has two clevis pins and currently a nut and bolt through the bottom. It is totally obvious where it goes as there is a blind hole on the borg warner where the bolt fits but I cannot see how it should be d
  23. yes, I have now ordered complete ABS rebuild kits I thought the pictures I found looked like the pin was longer and he told me FRC3511 is 65mm tall whereas the ABS one is 44.75mm including the top flange I didn't ask for measurements on 571756 as I am sure that it isn't the correct diameters just from comparing pictures as the shelf hallway down the pin looks a fair bit wider to me than the ABS pin I have Thanks again for your comments
  24. A helpful man from Island-4x4 has told me FRC3511 is way too long so it looks like the ABS sensors are staying fitted but just not connected to the brake system
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