MikeD

I have a spearate thread with a little more info on this https://forums.lr4x4.com/topic/112833-range-rover-classic-39-auto-gearbox-grinding-in-neutral-and-park-but-ok-in-reverse-or-drive/ It came from a known working car and gearbox and engine weren't separated in the transfer

correct 3.9 auto, flex drive to transducer, wire from transducer to speedo

This is a second fault (gearbox grating) on a vehicle that has been standing for a fair time. Speedo was working and, other than the wiring from the transducer to the clocks, nothing else has changed The odometer is working and as it is an electronic head I assume this makes it most likely to be the head unit itself Has anyone experienced this and found a fixable fault?

Putting a vehicle back on the road that has had an engine, gearbox and transfer box transplant from a known donor It has been working fine right up until the point where it is due to go back on the road and was giving it a final test before the mot and the gearbox has started grinding when in neutral or park but is weirdly ok in reverse or drive. As in the noise goes away and it moves normally It is quite some time since the donor bits were used but they were working fine before the transplant and have worked ok for just moving around the workshop since the engine was wired up All oils have been changed and the gearbox oil filter was changed so it has been mucked about with but like I said it has been working ok since that Any suggestions?

RTC5827 is the one, thank you very much @western

That looks very much like the failed pump thank you, does the parts book show a part number for the seal as well please? I was trhinking of the P38 pump as a possible "kludge" if I couldn't get an original replacement. As it might either fit the hole in the current bottle or i could perhaps enlarge the hole to suit

meant to say the washer sticks straight out from the washer bottle and is self supporting

I need a replacement for an under wing washer pump curently fitted to a 1989 90 and cannot find what I am looking for. I found GWW1194 on Rimmers site which has a 100% matching picture but when I ordered the part I got something that was a washer pump but different fixing and wouldn't work with my washer bottle This is the picture from Rimmers The end of the pump is actually threaded and the picture shows it compltete with the seal it screws into which I thought would be brilliant as the existing seal is old and has a split in it anyway The hole in the bottle is 19.4mm any suggestions? I am wondering whether DMC100550 or any other land rover pump might fit this sized hole?

Correct, Pretty sure I threw it as my freezer experiment suggested it didn't work I was getting rid of the accumulated tat making space for more tat 😀, sorry!

One problem with adding after market seats over the battery box on a defender is retaining access This is my solution in case it inspires other people. I didn't need the passenger seat adjustable for front/back position so measured where I wanted it from the drivers seat 6mm x 50mm flat to form the seat mounts and 25mm x 6mm angle (carefully chosen from the pile of things I already have) 4 x stainless detent pins in double shear bet the rings rattle but easy enough to deal with if they do. Should also wire the pins so I don't lose them if I need to get at the battery when out and about

That is the sort of wiring job you don't want to cover up, mine are best hidden in all the dark places, fortunately there are plenty of dark places I presume the christmas tree symbol on pin 56 is intended to be a permanent 12v feed From reading the spec on that linked page it isn't particularly clear whether you need to momentary connect the +12v to 30 and have a permanent earth on S or have a permanent 12v on 30 and momentary earth on S I would try per your diagram and see if it works you should be able to use it the way you are doing but the original design intention would have been to have dip beam on say 56a and high beam on 56b

not sure of the etiquette in replying to your own thread but..... I found some really good channel for this job and thought I would share https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FLOCKED-LINED-RUBBER-SLIDING-WINDOW-CHANNEL-UPTO-4-6MM-GLASS/224144606416 it takes a little practice to fit and I found a small pair of blunt nosed pliers (jewellers size) was best another job off the list only 5,783 to go 😀

I have been searching but am unable to find anyone that sells this particular type of channel insert for sliding side windows. It basically looks to be the webbing material that you used to get on rucksack straps (if you are old enough) it measures around 1.8mm thick and about 21mm wide. It obviously gets its shape from the aluminium channel (10mm wide by 10mm high) it is just pushed in and goes round the rounded corners nicely I might be able to use the smallest woolies channel type but if I can get this original type I would prefer to do so I did try some of the land rover felt but that is too thick to get the 4.9mm window glass in

If you need more clearance on those bolts look up "button allen key bolt" they can be had in 10.9 for strength

more ideas take a look at dzus and/or camloc fasteners. Typically used for holding aircraft panels. I tried looking at their tensile strengths but couldn't decide whether they were strong enough. they make versions that take coins and allen keys alternatively use rivnuts and bolts, I have previously welded repair washers on edge to the head of a high tensile bolt to make them quick to remove without tools as long as you don't use vastly over length bolts then 4 bolts aren't too difficult to remove with a quarter inch socket set I have also thought about having flanges fitted to the seat and runners and a stainless rod push through holes in both to make it even easier to remove a seat although that adds a bit to the height needed if the back mountings, where you have the height available, were made as push in fit then you could reduce it to 2 bolts at the front of the seat

I found that lifting the back to get the seat base level meant I was so high that I restricted my view up the road and I am only 6ft tall so not excessive I did find it uncomfortable with no lift as the seat squab pressed under my thighs I did make some sloping runners out of 2mm steel to fit a range rover seat in but then sold the seat to someone who needed it for its original purpose. I just folded bits and stuck them together

I don't think I have seen one with any multiway connectors like that in the radio area, are you sure that is where they should be? as the loom does have similar connectors on the other side of the bulkhead in the engine bay which run out through the circular grommet in the middle of the bulkhead. I also cannot imagine why there would be a handbrake cable in the centre, I would expect that in the dash pod to connect up to the warning light in the instrument cluster

Thanks both, that is really helpful

I am looking at aftermarket gearbox oil coolers and I know the oil pressure measured on a gauge plumbed in to the connection on the front of the auto box should show 100psi at idle and 150psi at 200rpm according to the service manual (both +- 5psi) I have two questions 1. is this the pressure that would be found in the oil cooler and its plumbing? 2. would the pressure go higher at a higher rpm? looking at the motamec cooler it is rated at 145psi and the mocal at 150psi so both are borderline for the service manual pressure

black/blue colour says its the wire to the diff lock switch from the diff lock warning light does it come out of the loom before it goes through the chassis?

We had a 200 that used glass fuses of course it could have previously been a TD but it did have a defender version of the engine

Very helpful thank you Neil the transfer box came from an rrc (might have been useful to say that earlier) so I wasn't sure if it would need the same gear with a defender speedo I'll try the cooler pipes with jubilee clips and once the setup is proven I could get some proper pipes made great info on the sender number thanks again

I wondered if anyone "knew" the answers to the following questions and was willing to share their knowledge 😀 The 3.9 is a non cat non lambda v belt efi version with an auto box 1. Do I need to run the speedo cable with the transducer with it? I was planning on a straight defender type cable but have recently read that this will upset the 14cux and make it problematic coming back to idle from overrun as the ecu won't know the roadspeed. If I have to use this does anyone know the best colour drive gear to use for a 200tdi speedo head. 2. I have read the v belt temperature sensor reads sensibly with a 200tdi temperature gauge. Is that correct? 3. i am planning to alter the existing gearbox cooler pipes by cutting the metal part and rejoining using rubber hoses with jubilee clips. Any reason not to do this? thanks for your help

I have had mine re-cored with a pressure washable core which the place (Kempston Radiators in Bedford) keep for JCBs and similar seemed like a good idea especially when you go wading and your radiator clogs up with sand 😠. they did the calculations to make sure the cooling would be sufficient

Premier Galvanizing in Corby, they operate a collect and deliver service which happens to cover Bedfordshire. I will know how good it all was when I get things back next wednesday Wedge Sawtry told me that their group policy (set 2 to 3 years ago) is that the only land rover parts they will do now is a chassis. Maybe Haverhill is a bit more flexible won't know the price until they have done the job as I have quite a number of other bits to get done as well but they have a minimum price of £75 and the collect/delivery is £45, both plus vat back 4 years ago wedge sawtry did a bulkhead for a family member and their minimum price then was £60 plus vat so not too dissimilar I think zinc spray would be a nicer finish but I am intending to leave it unpainted and I believe the dip process will be thicker and therefore last better