MikeD

Found somebody who will collect, galvanise and return Happy again now 😃

Hi, got my pile of blasted and repaired bits repaired and ready and rang the Wedge place at Sawtry to arrange galvanising and got "Sorry we don't do anything other than chassis these days" Has anyone had a bulkhead galvanised recently and if so where? Ideally close to Bedfordshire/Hertfordshire but when you have spent loads of time blasting and repairing things I might be more willing to travel now 😒

good luck with that, I have just "rescued" a foot from a corroded pillar and there are quite a few spot welds to remove, luckily for me I need to replace the pillar anyway have you had a good look at the rest of the chassis? that is fairly heavy corrosion and you may be close to being better off replacing the chassis

we got a pair from headedwindscreen for my sons series and were happy with the ease of fitting and the quality of the glass he would have liked them to work a bit faster and sometime I will run an additional heavy cable to reduce the volt drop a bit as I think it was 11.5 at the screen contacts even with the engine running They are heated windscreens and they work, if I had more early starts I would be happy to buy a defender one from them Previously my son bought a Pilkington screen for his defender from ebay which we fitted ourselves and I wired for him. Generally this worked well but we found there a couple of strands that didn't work and they were right in the middle on the drivers side Hope that helps

@teabag - spot on, well done now I know what it is I found an old thread on here where the identical part had been discussed in 2007! https://forums.lr4x4.com/topic/14516-can-you-identify-this-component/ shame that after all this it appears to be faulty but it exercised the grey cells for a while and at least I know this won't be why the engine doesn't restart when I eventually get around to connecting it to fuel and volts 😁 thank you to everyone who participated

@teabag, looks similar but this is from a classic rather than a P38 so not a BTR9733 If it is a switch to turn the heated washers on then it must be broken because it was 0.3 ohms after being in the freezer for 24 hours and 0.3 ohms several hours later when it had got up to 26.6 room temperature

Just found one for sale on ebay as a Range Rover Classic RRC Heated Windshield Washer Temperature Sensor Switch but I didn't have a heated windscreen and the sensor isn't anywhere near the washer maybe it is supposed to switch the squirter off if the temperature goes below freezing just chucked it in the freezer, probably find it in my dinner next week 😂

it must be oem as the wires from the plug go into the main car loom in the engine bay, not easy to trace once it is in there. I may find where that colour comes out i'm sure I will find out what it is for when I cannot get something working on the engine 😀

I forgot to say this was a 92 Vogue EFI with AC and this didn't have any form of temperature readout on the dash it looks like it could be a temp sender but it only measures 0.3 to 0.4 ohms at room temperature. it does measure the same in both polarities and I guess it may change with temperature I am not expecting it to have any value but was more curious to find out what it might be I spent a long time looking for online evidence of what it might be and even spent time looking at wiring diagrams to see if I could spot Red/Slate wire colours

Dismantling an RRC and have a small sensor that came off the drivers side headlight panel and no idea what it is for It is connected on two wire, one of which is Red/Slate, anyone recognise it?

That makes sense. the bushes are fitted but are now just one solid lump. I think the bolt should clamp on the inner one which should then turn in the outer. I couldn't see any signs on the bolt that the arm was rotating on it so couldn't make sense of it I will have a go at removing the inner bush and either clean it or get a new one Thank you for the diagram it was just what I had been looking for but couldn't find

Simple thing but I am hoping someone can help. Several years ago my son took the arm off that links the handbrake cable to the bit that sticks out of the handbrake drum because he thought it would do for something else. I have the arm and want to reuse the gearbox and borg warner but cannot see what the correct way to fit the arm back to the transfer box is. Sounds stupid as the arm has two clevis pins and currently a nut and bolt through the bottom. It is totally obvious where it goes as there is a blind hole on the borg warner where the bolt fits but I cannot see how it should be done up and still allow the arm to move freely The chances are the nut and bolt in the arm aren't the originals but if anyone has the borg warner box fitted I would appreciate a picture of the arm fitted so I can see what Rover intended rather than bodging something Thank you in advance

yes, I have now ordered complete ABS rebuild kits I thought the pictures I found looked like the pin was longer and he told me FRC3511 is 65mm tall whereas the ABS one is 44.75mm including the top flange I didn't ask for measurements on 571756 as I am sure that it isn't the correct diameters just from comparing pictures as the shelf hallway down the pin looks a fair bit wider to me than the ABS pin I have Thanks again for your comments

A helpful man from Island-4x4 has told me FRC3511 is way too long so it looks like the ABS sensors are staying fitted but just not connected to the brake system

been looking at pictures and I think that 571756 looks a bit skinny to replace the abs top pin but FRC3511 looks a better bet by any chance has anyone got either of those that they could put a Vernier on? this is what I measured from the existing one although I did all the measurements, washed my hands and then typed them all and probably got them a bit mixed up so please don't take these as gospel

I dismantled one end yesterday and compared the abs top pin to a non abs defender one and they were quite different where they fit into the top bearing but part number 571756 looks much closer to the ABS one thank you both

I have a low mileage ABS front axle that I want to replace the swivel joints on and fit to a non ABS vehicle It seems simplest to me to buy the non abs swivel ball kit and use that but I was wondering if anyone had tried this and found any issues with doing it. I am also wondering if there might be an issue using the ABS CV joint inside the non ABS swivel ball and pins The alternative would be to use the ABS parts and either cut the ABS cable or tie wrap it out of the way Either way I plan on fitting the correct non abs disks and callipers If anyone has any experience in this area I would be grateful for your comments before I buy parts that I shouldn't have

It was bought as a kit from Nigel (I believe), I assembled it and chose the blocks to assemble from what jad told me we need to control. I made the kit at least 6 months ago and we are only just getting to the point of having the 109 sufficiently cabled to think about turning it on for the first time. Slightly out of my comfort zone but then producing the whole car loom from scratch has been "interesting" to say the least. Beginning to lose count of how many times I have found things that have been "forgotten" I have decided to use the "typical spare port output circuit" driven from the IAC cicuits but am uprating the transistors to handle the higher current of the control valve on the 1uzfe (I have read this draws up to 1.5amps) From another forum I have been advised the knock circuit in the MS2 can only handle one sensor per engine and that it is probably best to leave this off at this stage

I am trying to set up an ms2 v3 for use on "Koya" JAD's 109 with a 1uzfe engine (see build elsewhere). As a megasquirt virgin I would like to know if I am on the right lines or just wandering around in the wilderness. We are getting close to connecting power to the MS2 for the first time ever and I would rather it didn't produce a firework display the iac has 4 wires and apparently takes up to 1.5a which means adding transistors as if they were relay drivers. I thought I would use BD237 transistors as they are rated at 2 amp anyone think that would be ok? or should I use TIP31. I presume no heatsink as they are either on or off. Would I also need suppressor diodes as per the relay circuit? if I am using the 4 iac outputs for this and I want to run a dual speed fan through relays I think I can use Fidle to control one speed and perhaps the injector led output for the other speed, using standard land rover relays I think this should be ok just driving from the standard transistor. Does this sound right? finally, the 1uzfe has two knock sensors and no conditioning circuitry as far as I can see. Does the panel think that MS2 can handle two knock sensors or shall I leave one disconnected? not sure if that is practical either as sensors are currently one per bank Thanks Mike

Thank you, that is really helpful

starter works fine when you hold the key in precisely the right position. unfortunately there is only one degree or less of rotation where it makes contact with the starter position. I was working on the basis it may get better with use the wiring scheme is completely standard front wings are discovery 1 but swapped side to side to keep people guessing engine is pretty much standard lexus the dash is lots of different colours, some land rover, some lexus, some megasquirt, some I haven't quite worked out yet There are fuse boxes here, here and here and, in the event of an emergency, pretty sparks should guide people to the correct location

Hi discovery people I am trying to re-use a discovery one fuse panel in a series and would appreciate a picture or list of what the original fuse ratings and uses were. The box I am after is the 27 way fusebox fitted to Discovery 1 up to around 1994 and the fuses are in three rows A1-9, B1-9 and C1-9 a picture of the handbook page listing the fuses showing their default values and purposes would be absolutely great I have searched online and can find the manuals/handbooks for the later Discovery 1 fuse panel but not the one I have which is 200tdi/3.5 v8/early 3.9v8 generation thanks in advance Mike

Perfect thanks Doug, it looks like the nut that retains the steering wheel is pretty much above the front edge of the seatbox and about 4 inches or so below the level of the top edge of the dashboard which is what I needed to know

We are currently building up a hybrid and I wondered if someone would mind taking a picture into the cab from the drivers side, preferably with the door open :-) I am interested in seeing where the steering wheel normally is in relation to the front of the seat box so we can tell if this one is going to be undriveable without some work on the steering column both front/back and up/down Thanks Mike

Thank you everyone, the YRM bit is the right one for my late 300tdi exhaust, I thought I had kept it but a picture I took of the old chassis on its way to be weighed in clearly shows it rusted in place Ralph, the exhaust on page 660 is the earlier 300 tdi which is quite a bit different and was fitted up to sometime 97 (vin TA999221), the part on that page looks similar to the YRM bit but it only has one fitting hole and was intended for the use on the bracket welded to the front of the cross member whereas the YRM type bracket fits using two bolts on to the bottom of the cross member The later exhaust has only the one bigger centre box Thanks again for your help