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Mike_H

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  1. So if the strap is just round the gearbox it'll damage the T-box, or are you just thinking it'll be unbalanced? Sounds like a combination of engine hoist through the gearlever hole, and big trolley jack under the transfer box, could work. Sounds hopeful re. dropping the box out. I'll see if my mate has found a replacement yet.
  2. You could try a block tester kit (coloured indicator fluid and a big glass vial that looks like a turkey baster) which will tell you if there's exhaust gas in the coolant from a porous block. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/BT500-TEST-TOOLS-BLOCK-TESTER-KIT_W0QQitemZ180403712565QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Hand_Tools_Equipment?hash=item2a00e63235#ht_1986wt_1164
  3. No, they're not galvanised. IIRC there weren't any galv facilities at Solihull back then.
  4. This site is down at the minute, but it's very useful (when it's working). There are good video tutorials and lots of knowledgeable folks on the forum. http://mig-welding.co.uk/ In terms of a welder, if you're ever going to do any chassis stuff, you need to be up around 130-150amp. 100 amp isn't going to be enough - you'll be running on full power and cutting out on overheat all the time, and probably still short of penetration. I'm no fan of Clarke tools in general, but the Clarke 150TE(?) welder that my mate has is a good bit of kit. I've read (probably on that mig welding site) that SIP welders have lots of problems with the wire sheath, so are best avoided.
  5. So, looking at the Britpart catalogue, the clutch kit is the same for R380 and non R380 models - STC8358 Can anyone give me a couple of pointers on how high I need to get the car, and any good tips for dropping the 'box out?
  6. The car is at Silverstone at the owner's place. I live in Windsor I've got access to decent trolley jacks, some big drive-on ramps, and an engine crane. I was wondering if the engine crane could be used from above inside the car (through the gear lever hole with a strap round the 'box) to lower the trans down. How much clearance is needed to drag the transmission assembly out from under the car - 18" ish? I reckon we could get it on the ramps using 4th gear and low range (that's how it got home). The owner might know of an R380 box going spare. Does the clutch need to be changed to match the 'box, or are they the same? Any differences that I need to worry about in the transfer box? I think there were some design revisions when the R380 came in, but I'm not sure if they affect the fitting to older cars.
  7. Sorry for being a bit slow on the uptake - I'm not sure what / where the spigot bearing is. I guess I'll have to RTFM
  8. Thanks. Are V8 and diesel boxes significantly different? Also, I've never changed one of these before. Can they be dropped out of the bottom without taking the engine out, or is it a question of pulling it all apart?
  9. I haven't seen it yet, but my mate tells me his gearbox has blown up in his RR Classic TDI. I guess we'll be looking for one to swap in, so I'd appreciate advice on whether they're interchangeable with LT77s from Discos or defenders, or from V8s RR / Discos. Other than the question of whether they fit, are there differences in ratios to consider? Alternatively, is an R380 box a straight swap? Which models would work? Which other bits would be needed?
  10. The LT77 line was decommissioned in '93 and the R380 line went in around the turn of the year, and had a slow ramp-up - I was there So cars built from 95MY onwards had the R380, I think. The memory is hazy, but I think a big stock-build of LT77's was done around the same time.
  11. I've recently bought one of the block testers where a fluid changes colour on contact with combustion gas. I'll give that a try to confirm, but I'm pretty confident that the radiator was ok when we started - looks nearly new. However, the engine has had sealer chemicals in it, so it could be getting blocked up now.
  12. I'm in Berkshire, but the car is in Northants, near Brackley/Sliverstone. If anyone's got a good 3.9 lump (ideally running and testable with a block tester) then there's a good chance that the owner (a mate, not me) would be interested.
  13. I guess they're not worth a huge amount, but I'd have thought it's worth something, as there are lots of nice bits on it.... maybe I will be changing the engine after all?!
  14. I thought I'd come back and report on this one.... Unfortunately all seemed well, and the engine would tick over happily without any problems, but when it did some real work, the pressurizing / coolant loss problems came back with a vengeance, so at the end of it all, the conclusion is that the block/head has gone porous somewhere. So there are two options left really. 1. Buy another lump, fit it, and hope the new one is ok. I've been offered a TVR 4.0 lump for sensible money. I imagine the swap would be fairly straightforward, but are there any issues with swapping a manual engine into an auto car, or 2wd to 4wd? Obviously I'd be planning to use the existng transmission from the rangie. 2. Sell the car as-is for a project / breaker. What's an otherwise decent classic worth with no tax or MOT, and a dud engine. It still runs though. The owner has a 1972 short wheelbase car, which he really wants to keep, as well as the 1993 classic, so if anyone's looking for a project (the 1993 one), let me know!
  15. Thanks for all the advice... I'm pretty sure it's not the radiator, as it looks nearly new, and the bottom hose gets hot too... although it's hard to get a paw in there to check! The thermostat was also changed in the last year, at the start of the overheating problems. Next up, it's definitely not leaking from any of the hoses... I guess we need to double check for the presence of combustion gases in the header tank to be sure, but I reckon that's what's going on.
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