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Timmy511

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About Timmy511

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    Old Hand

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  • Location
    NZ

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  1. Hi all, ive currently got the standard 65amp alternator running my single battery and 8274 setup. what alternators are people using on a 200tdi disco engine with higher amp output? and where can you source them? Thanks, Tim.
  2. I've just read that and was trying to type on my phone, under seat fuel tank. I'm in Nz and my hybrid 90 needs a new tank, considering the difficulty of getting one I think I'll make one.
  3. Hi all can someone measure a lr90 underwear fueltbank for me? Any help much appreciated.
  4. start as you mean to go on, get a second hand 8274, service it when you get it, run it till it dies and upgrade it with whatever breaks or when buget allows, put a gigglepin mainshaft in it, and a new motor. i got mine for 450 off ebay, got an allbright copy solenoid for 50 quid at a show and got an xp motor from here for 165. my plasma was one of the cheap ebay efort for 140quid with hook and fair lead. cheap winching imo. the expensive part was making a bumper to suit my ibex. but a 90, youll not have that problem!
  5. how do you convert a disco r380 box to a defender one? everything is the same from what i can gather bar from the shifter mechanism, i hear you can swap them, is it easy or do you need to strip the box to do it? im in new zealand atm and trying to help my mate fix my ibex back home, hes looking after her and its lost 5th and reverse, broken layshaft from what i can gather from the ashcroft website. easiest option seems to be a replacement box but a defender box is like finding a needle in a hay stack! any halp much apreciated. cheers, tim.
  6. The propshaft clinic in bradford is where you want to go. pete will simply, cut the old yoke out, weld a new one in, fit a new uj, and ballance it! last one i had done (splined shaft replaced) cost 40 quid! not worth starting with imo.
  7. kingone decent winches, cheaper!
  8. Ahhhhh see what you saying now, yes i agree deffinatly the way to go. is that one solid gear or is it a gear on a splined shaft as you were talking about earlier? if its on a splined shaft then its easy peasy and only one gear to be made along with a spacer plate. cant wait to see it done!
  9. Sorry, ive looked at the pictures and seen the problem with changing the gearing with the motor gears, no clearence for the second motor drive gear, DOH! you dont need to space the motors further apart (i dont think), youll have the same effect by lifting the top housing with a plate inbetween the top housing and the lower housing. id say yeah go for the big driven gear in lower housing, but for an increase in speed youd have to reduce the number of teeth on the driven gear, which would then mean you have to drop the top housing not lift it. This is if ive understood your plan. The only two ways i can see this being done relatively easily if you have the machines are: 1: Open up the top housing by cutting material away from around the second motors drive gears, and weld in plate to close it back up again, then machine a spacer for the top housing and produce two new drive gears for the motors. 2: modify the main shaft/make your own one with a bigger gear on the end and a smaller gear on the drum. or ring Gigglepin, and see if they can supply you with any of the parts to reduce the work load. The shim/gasket idea is fine, imo itll just be messy if you have to stack it with more than one but on another note itll allow for adjustment in the future.
  10. Titex coated drill (a real one not the mickey mouse ones!) or carbide drill should see it!
  11. your 3 years too late! if id still been at reliance gear company id have done it for you if we'd had the hobs and right shaping cutters. it seems so long since i was gear cutting. ah good times. The spacer plate cant be difficult if you have CNC capabities, if i were you id leave it tall, then plastigauge the gear mesh and surface grind your spacer plate to get the mesh cock on. You could make the gears and spline production easier by reverting back to old 8274 type gear with a woodruff key and grind a key way into the motor shaft. then broach the key way into the gears.
  12. could you not make a spacer plate for the top housing to lift it up, then increase the number of teeth on the drive gear by one or two to increase the gearing, as im guessing those two gears would be cheapest to produce by: turning a gear blank yourself, get someone to cut it then get the splines broached or shaped.
  13. Hi there, im looking at fitting an oil pressure and water temp gauge to my 300 tdi using an oil pressure pipe and a capilary for the temp. What are the thread sizes for the temp sender in the thermostat housing and the oil pressure sender on the filter housing? If i had a spare sender kicking around id measure it but i dont. Any help much apreicated.
  14. cheaper version works for me: irwin bolt grips
  15. well, being sunday already i wont be there. but let me know about the next one, ill more than likely tag along! ill try and get my mate out in his 90. the challenge in december was brilliant fun for such a small site.
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