Jump to content

Tobias

Settled In
  • Content count

    137
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Tobias last won the day on March 18

Tobias had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

4 Neutral

About Tobias

  • Rank
    Member

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://www.hotchallenge.se
  • ICQ
    0

Profile Information

  • Location
    Gnesta, Sweden

Recent Profile Visitors

546 profile views
  1. Anything ever came out of this? Tobias
  2. I am not asking whether it is what people rocomend. I know it is not by the book. I understand the hub on the pump will be mis-aligned in relationship with facotry procedure, but the whole pin-in-hole thing is just because most people changing a belt doesn't have access to the DTI procedure. I haven't heard anyone claiming the timing pin being more accurate than the DTI-procedure, but many claiming it is not accurate enough if it is not done by DTI. My suggestion above would be just as good as any, using the DTI, correct? It will leave me with a mis-aligne hole in the hub, for using the timing pin procedure, which I am ok with. It will allow me to put in a boost ring while the pump is out. It will allow me to change my dubious pump for a known good pump. It will NOT allow me to align the cog wheel for the one tooth out at this stage, but soon enough the engine will go out anyway and the pump hub misalignment can be fixed then. After summer. So what is wrong with my suggested procedure. Why will it not work? Thanks Tobias
  3. That didn't exactly answe the question. I am more interested in hearing why you think it is a bad plan than to explain why I haven't removed the front cover. I know how to remove the front cover. I know I haven't done it. I know removing the front cover will not give me the accurate timing a DTI will. Why will my suggested plan not work? Thanks Tobias
  4. So, having studied the internet and youtube videos, I now think I have a plan: Use a dial gauge to accurately determine my currently available timing range. (e.g. 1.30 to 1.45mm) Use a tool to be able to remove the pump without disturbing the belt. Loosen the pump hub to reset to the desired timing range. (e.g. 1.47 to 1.62mm) Reinstall pump and set desired timing with indicator gauge. (e.g. 1.54mm) The timing pin slot will be out, but the timing will be right. OK? T
  5. Tobias

    Best engine

    "That's probably what I'm going to be running. Especially as it will talk to my transmission controller too." Please tell me more about setup and intended purpose! Which TCU? T
  6. Tobias

    Best engine

    Anyone has dyno charts for 300tdi EDC? Also, any ideas on how to make the torque curve "flatter"?
  7. Tobias

    Best engine

    A controller is available from Iceland at USD 650. https://controls.is/shop/ecu/dsl1 T
  8. Tobias

    Flip up screen stereo/cd

    Which unit and from where, please?
  9. Tobias

    300TDI with EDC into Defender

    https://controls.is/dsl1.html is the link to the guy in Iceland
  10. Have you offered to send these pics to Ashcrofts? I had an issue with one of these once, and it seemed they were genuinely grateful to receive pics of the carnage. Tobias
  11. Tobias

    300TDI with EDC into Defender

    You can use your existing injectors and pipes even with a mechanical pump. There is a guy in Iceland who is building an aftermarket controller for the electronic pump. I am going that route I think... T
  12. Tobias

    300TDI with EDC into Defender

    No, the square hole where the speedo cable end goes in doesn't fit. The Disco hole is smaller. You can easily change over the speedo drive gear from the transfer case of a defender, if you have it, or buy a new speedo drive gear if you don't have it. The TD5 transducer is the same size as defender cable, so that doesn't fit either, without changing the speedo drive. T
  13. Tobias

    Snow/Ice vs Tyres/Chains

    Arjan, I don't argue which is faster. I do still want to say that in serious off camber situations, studs are not enough. I see the uses as quite different. High speed road use is studs, but not 100% controlled. For 100% control and serious inclines, even more so with (heavy) trailer you need 100% control and sacrifice speed and go for chains. Tobias
×

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy