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Tobias last won the day on March 18 2019

Tobias had the most liked content!

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About Tobias

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    Södertälje, Sweden

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  1. ballcock, you might have luck opening the water pumps u and spraying wd40 or similar inside and try to work them loose. I've had success in resurrecting pumps. T
  2. Pull on the kick down inner cable. Just before it is all the way out, you feel an "indent". A resistance to pulling further, that you can pull past, if you pull harder. You should adjust so that at full throttle movement, pedal to the floor, you pull past this indent. I hope this was understandable, T
  3. If you hesitate at taking it out, it's a big job. The A-clutch is at the front, so you do not need to dig deep in the box. I did this, basically, just not changing it out once i was deep enough, since the clutches were practically new. The box worked fine but I wanted to change A-clutch preventatively as the box was out. Read up, get the relevant manuals, I have them if you do not find them elsewhere. There is an uprated A-clutch from Alto. This is what I found in my box, so was very happy. https://www.ebay.com/itm/303253027697 No ill effects from me opening it up in only reasonably clean environment. it isn't brain surgery, just don't do it on a dirty floor. Good luck! T
  4. on a 300tdi you need to swap out the speedo drive gear in the LT230. The disco square hole is smaller. If the same applies to a TD5, don't know. Test your speed sender in the hole before you put the box in. It is possible to change with the box in place, but much much easier on the floor. T
  5. Bowie can you tell more about cheaper Transmission controllers, please?
  6. Not in a Land Rover, but still... It seems we will be spending some days in the Birmingham area coming saturday-wednesday. Apart from the obvious Gaydon museum, what else is there to do on a Land Rover theme in the area? John Craddocks is nearby. More? Thanks Tobias
  7. Well, the ADAC (German AA) towed us to their local garage. They didn't have time to work on it. I asked them for an indication, in parallell to asking here and a facebook group. They towed us across the street to an independent. "Zooauto". I later learned that there was somewhat of a Land Rover specialist a few hundred meters further. but it was only a day or two later and all was already well underway by then. Since my 130 has an engine and autobox from a Disco, with the EDC pump changed for a mechanical. It was a few ooh and aarghs when I gave engine numbers and so forth. For some reason the head gasket that arrived was wrong and when the correct one arrived the engine overheated, thermostat was deemed culprit, removed and the cooling system overheated. Head was deemed cracked. a German "Facebook"friend found a head "locally", I borrowed it and a week after the incident we were on our way again. The workshop was friendly, we could camp on their backyard, borrow their courtesy car to go to the showers and to Abenteuer Allrad fair some 80km away. IMG_8968.MOV
  8. Anyone know if the ambulance length arms are available from anywhere in Britax brand?
  9. I haven't solved it. The arms are quite new and has been like this since new. Longer ambulance arms from Paddocks. I am still looking for an improvement.
  10. Anything ever came out of this? Tobias
  11. I am not asking whether it is what people rocomend. I know it is not by the book. I understand the hub on the pump will be mis-aligned in relationship with facotry procedure, but the whole pin-in-hole thing is just because most people changing a belt doesn't have access to the DTI procedure. I haven't heard anyone claiming the timing pin being more accurate than the DTI-procedure, but many claiming it is not accurate enough if it is not done by DTI. My suggestion above would be just as good as any, using the DTI, correct? It will leave me with a mis-aligne hole in the hub, for using the timing pin procedure, which I am ok with. It will allow me to put in a boost ring while the pump is out. It will allow me to change my dubious pump for a known good pump. It will NOT allow me to align the cog wheel for the one tooth out at this stage, but soon enough the engine will go out anyway and the pump hub misalignment can be fixed then. After summer. So what is wrong with my suggested procedure. Why will it not work? Thanks Tobias
  12. That didn't exactly answe the question. I am more interested in hearing why you think it is a bad plan than to explain why I haven't removed the front cover. I know how to remove the front cover. I know I haven't done it. I know removing the front cover will not give me the accurate timing a DTI will. Why will my suggested plan not work? Thanks Tobias
  13. So, having studied the internet and youtube videos, I now think I have a plan: Use a dial gauge to accurately determine my currently available timing range. (e.g. 1.30 to 1.45mm) Use a tool to be able to remove the pump without disturbing the belt. Loosen the pump hub to reset to the desired timing range. (e.g. 1.47 to 1.62mm) Reinstall pump and set desired timing with indicator gauge. (e.g. 1.54mm) The timing pin slot will be out, but the timing will be right. OK? T
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