Tobias

I like the idea. Not sure I would actually implement it, the way you showed in the diagrams, but for all auxiliary electrics... Extra lights, font sides rear compressor this that the other T

Current state of both. Both housings will get the reinforcing bush for the intermediate shaft and ATB for centre diff. the older one will get reinforced intermediate shaft and go to the ambo, as per Dave A’s recomendstion. The ’Q’ will go into the missus daily driver 90. 300tdi and auto in that one as well. Tobias

Dave A suggests to go for the older LT230T "with the thicker teeth". So gear strength seems to be the deciding difference here. T

Which one is stronger? More long lived? lt230t with original disco 1 1.2 gearset or lt230q with original disco 1 1.2 gearset? Tobias

Thnaks for the reply, however the question is not on 1.4 or 1.2. Its on lt230t (1.2) or lt230q (1.2), i should have made that more clear we had a lt230q (1.2) behind a standard autobox and standard but pump tweaked 300tdi in the 130 with demountable camper, that was heavier and taller than the Pulse will be so we are confident we want 1.2. i am not afraid to use low range at times. That’s what low range is for - being used! 😉 we could cruise comfortably at 80-90kph (55mph being roughly 88kph) but steep inclunes saw the speed go down, which is what kick-down is for. Tobias

Hi I am ready to start the build of the LT230 to go behind a 2.8 300tdi with reinforced ZF Autobox. I have procured the bush for the intermediate shaft and ATB for the centre diff from Ashcrofts. I have one LT230T from a 1994 Disco 1 and a later LT230Q from a 1997 Disco 1 to use for the rebuild. I have heard that the gears of the LT230Q are "weaker" but when I now read on the net I find info to suggest that the LT230Q is actually reinforced in some areas compared to the LT230T. Which one should I go for, if I prioritise longevity and reliability. Reduced noise is not unwelcome but also not worth more than reliability. Thanks Tobias

You should not change the injectors unless you are changing pistons to 2.8. The injectors sprav at an angle which is tailored to the swirl pot of the top of the piston. The 2.8 injectors have a smaller total hole diameter, so from a pure flow perspective, flow less fuel. T

It went well, with the advise. Thanks a lot! In the end it was complicated by the fact that the il pressure switch was broken, making the investigation less than intuitive... T

Hi, I removed the engine for a clutch change and now when replacing it, I am confused about the stop solenoid and oil pressure cables. It felt obvious when I removed them, due to different lengths, but now they are the same... One is white, no stripe and one is red, so I guess changed at some point. it feels as if there should be some clever way of testing them to figure out which is which, apart from removing them at the instrument cluster/ignition key to check continuity, but all I think of will put 12v at earth if it chose wrong. Any ideas? I add a picture just for the enjoyment of the group. Is is the white 1991 200tdi on the trailer that I am working on. Thanks Tobias

I like your ideas on brakes, disco 1 booster and electric vac pump.. i was tutored on Tesla/Bosch ebrake electric brake booster at the Botkyrka MK offroad meet in August. I found a used one in Norway and I’ll try it on the Pulse replica.. maybe we can meet up somewhen and compare brakes? Tobias

Thanks for all the suggestions. we ended up having brunch at my boss’ on saturday morning. Drove over to Wolverhampton after that. today we went to Ironbridge and then Bridgnorth. The weather was too hot to do any ambitious sightseeing, so these little stops and the nice small country roads was what we had the energy for. now work for two days and we hope to stop by ashcroft on the way back to heathrow on wednesday. thanks! tobias

I'v heard that LS additive oil is "not needed" or "not beneficial". Are you saying it is detrimental to performance? Less "bite" in the traction aid area? Or what detrimental effect should I expect? I do see benefit from the ATB action in the one's i have run with fully synthetic LS additive oil, but maybe not as much as I would hope. So, if I source a non-LS additive oil, do you think I should flush with non-LS additive oil a few times? How "aggressive" are the LS additives in "destroying" the ATB action? I am NOT going to rip the axle apart and clean everything, it's not that bad. Thanks Tobias

I've installed a number of these, in both front-only and front-rear applications. I've never heard any such noises. I tend to use 75W-90 or 75W-140, mostly in LSD flavour, since that is what is easiest to find for me. I once "complained" to ashcrofts, that I felt the pre-load was less "aggressive" than the tru-tracs i used before the Ashcroft LSD was made available and they said the LSD was not helping in that regard. they didn't say it was the root cause either... I'm a bit surprised by Nige's focus on one or two brands. I totally agree oil is a minefield, but at the same time, it is a well regulated and documented minefield and keeping to the basic specs should, in my limited experience, be good enough for an application as mechanically simple as an LSD. I haven't tried any of the oils Nige mentions, so there could be benefits from them. I am totally happy with the performance of the Ashcroft LSDs, even with the generic cheapo LSD 75W-140 I use, and have four more Ashcroft LSDs on the shelf waiting to be installed and a few installed in the current "fleet" of Land Rovers we run. No criticism intended of anyone, least of all Nige, I just want to give another datapoint(s). Tobias

We'll spend a weekend between London and Birmingham 23-25 June. We've been to the museum at Gaydon, but that's worth a revisit, if nothing more interesting is happening. We need to be in the west greater Birmingham area sunday night. Ideas? Thanks Tobias

I can answer myself. The output shaft is identical. Just a speedo gear and spacer is different. anyone with a spare output housing with provision for speedo drive? t

It seems the disco 2 LT230 does not have provision for the speedo gear. if one wanted to use a disco 2 box in a defender, would any rear output housing from any lt230 with speedo gear fit a 41 suffix disco 2 box? i guess the output shaft would also need changing? thanks Tobias

Hi I aquired a NT Sankey Trailer, cargo, 3/4 ton, 2wh.-Sankey Vehicle No 22FH83 Chassis No 290 Code No 2855-0790 Covered by CES No P/33984/4 It's not in Merlin, as far as I can see, but the numbers before and after are. What might this imply? Any idea on how to get some sort of manufacturing certificate? Thanks Tobias

Some progress. First RTFM is still valid! I didn't remove the rearmost lump that is screwed from the back wall at first, but it clearly says in the ZF overhaul manual to remove it. Now I could get the F-clutch assembled and but a pieve of PP tubing to keep it together when assembling. I also show some comparison of the F-clutch piece below. 300tdi hydraulic 4HP22 on the right and electric 4HP24 on the left. Wear on the tabs of the clutches can be seen in the 300tdi box, so they were replaced by the clutches from the 4HP24. This 4HP24 has allegedly done less than 5000km, which may be reasonable given the state of things inside. So i use the pieces from it instead pf new from the overhaul kit. Clearly some wear on the tabs on the "cage(?)" from the 300tdi boxe. i use the 4HP24 part. This wear corresponds to the tab wear. After several attempts I got it together. many places to go wrong, but it is very obvious, since the groove for the snap ring holding the C-clutch in doesn't become visible if everything is not sitting right. The PP pipe for the F-clutch was one "secret" that is necessary. Hammering in the planetary gear set into the F-clutch to make the seals go inside properly another. The I used the b-clutch and its snap ring to keep the C-C1-D-clutch pack together. Without these measures I always failed to get everything back together. Obviously with the proper factory ZF-tools it would be easy, and with these three "secrets" i believe I could do it again. The C-clutch snap ring had to be "hammered" int oit's groove in the end, but it was mild violence and what I think is correct. Next step is to get A and B clutches in as well as the rear, but it will be a few days. Tomorrow is play day at the local off roading site. T

Did this air bubble appear after a while of running? I've never seen air bubbles appearing in a coolant system after it has been running at proper level for a significant time. Unless coolant is lost somewhere. While removing air after a full or partial refill of the coolant system, I can easily see air causing all sorts of problems, but after a few hot-cold cycles and verifying that the heater is fully hot and no loss of coolant in the reservoir, I've never experienced air bubbles appearing. The extra sensor you mention is the EGR-sensor? maybe adding a valve there for bleeding is beneficial? T

It's not together yet, but current intention is to use output shaft and "half" of F-clutch from the 300 box and all in front of that from the 4.6-box. Let's see if I can get all parts in sucessfully tonight. My three attempts a few nights ago didn't get quite all the way... The intefaxes between all clutches or modules or how you want to call it are all the same, as far as I have seen so far, so seems really straight forward, as long as you have two complete boxes to mix and match from. As it happens, I have two 4.6-boxes and a few 300tdi's too. At least one benefit of planning for a project for a long time before finally doing it! (planning in my case mostly means collecting stuff "I might need")

I hear what you say about loss of coolant making a coolant sensor ineffective, but I believe you are mixing two problems. Problem 1, loss of coolant causing dry running in cylinderhead (and non-functioning wate temperature measurement) You fix this with a water loss alarm, which you have. So given that the alarm works and you stopp to fix any problem the alarma indicates, you always have water in the coolant galleries. Problem 2, coolant water temperature measurement. I agree that the stock gauge is carp. I have replaced the thermostat housing bung with a brass one, drilled and tapped for coolant temp sensor for an aftermarket gauge. Worked fab! I have also mounted a gauge inovations one on another 300tdi and there i wedged it between thermostat housing and bolt, good connection with the aluminium of the housing, which is in good contact with the water in the thermostat housing. Trying to measure cylinderhead temperature to catch coolant loss is too slow, in my opinion. You are trying to solve both problems above in one go, and in reality solve none. T

Our previous incarnation, a standard 130 CCPU with a demountable camper back, weighing in just short of 4000kg and being 3.2m high was painful. We managed, dropping to 60 or even 40km/h on some slopes, mainly under-fjord tunnels coming back up, but one eye on the cylinder head temperature gauge and one on the road made it.

Me too, I've been preparing for this for 5-6 years...

Anything in particular you’d like photos of, Gazzar?

Hi, I have started the long overdue mating of HP22 and HP24 parts. The purpose is to have a sturdy autobox for the 2.8 300tdi that will power the Pulse ambulance we are building. I start with the core of a 300tdi 1997 Discovery 1 autobox, ZF4HP22 Then I will pull front cover, oil pump, toque converter and "the internal bits" from an early RR P38 4.6 box, as has been vaguely described by Ashcroft and others over the years. I will use a conversion kit from M&D Engineering to mate the front cover to the 300tdi block. The 300tdi is bored and will get pistons, conrods and crank to make it into a 2.8, with tweaking of the injection pump I expect good oompf for steep hills in Norway and towing. Both boxes are torn down and the putting of internals into the box has started, but it is a pain to align everything and not drop something to have to start over, still not there... I add some pictures. Please add comments, questions and hints.