Steve_M

There are some Mach 5 bead lock wheels on ebay at the moment. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/LANDROVER-WHEELS_W0Q...1QQcmdZViewItem

Yes that looks familiar, I now have the correct type for my gearbox courtesy of ltwt1981 and the 1ton pto has gone to someone who can use it. Cheers, Steve

Thanks for the replies, it looks as though I will need to find a different pto unit as from what everyone has said it does look as though I have a unit to suit a 1 ton transfer box. The winch is going on my 109 rather than the lightweight so it has the standard box rather than the Ashcrofts high ratio box Mark mentioned (although from Bill's comments this shouldn't make any difference). Thanks again, Steve

RPR, Thanks for the relpy, I am not sure if it was orginally fitted to a 1 ton transfer case but the pto section is straight cut, it just appears to be too short by somewhere in the region of an inch. Do you know if the a standard 6 cylinder (ie not 1 ton) is the same as the transfer cas fitted to a 4 cylinder? Steve

Does anyone know if there is a difference between the pto unit required for a 4 and 6 cylinder vehicle? I have just got a fairey pto winch setup from a 6 cylinder and have just tried to fit it to a 4 cylinder series but can't see how it will engage as the section of the pto that the engagement gear slides along doesn't appear to be long enough to allow connection with the gear in the transfer box. Am I missng something obvious or do I need a different pto unit? Thanks, Steve

We have copy of the ninth edition from 1935 at work, I believe it was left here by someone who retired about 20 years ago and it still gets referred to on a regular basis (infact I was looking at it this morning). I keep meaning to get myself an up to date version. Steve

You're quite right, brain must not be functioning properly and typed without thinking, wrote down the wrong explantion but did use the 1kg to 9.81N to do the conversion. Feeling suitably embarassed.

Correct, the allowable shear will be lower than the tensile strength. The typical figure that springs to mind is around 60% of the tensile but it does vary slighty.

The 8.8 will start to deform at 640N/mm2 and break at 800N/mm2. The unit is a measure of the stress in the bolt and is saying you can apply 640N per sq. mm of cross-sectional area. A newton (N) is approximatley equal to 9.81kg, so 640N/mm2 is about 65kg/mm2. I would tend to use t/cm2 for work (naval architecture) as for the kind of stuff we are doing it gives nice figures to work with and most of the technical steel stock books have the section properties shown in cm, cm2 etc. Edited to add yield is basically the figure you need to look at.

Yes they are definately availiable, as XtremeMarine says try Craddocks or Paddocks. I got a full set for my 109 last year from one of those two but I can't remember which, I think probably Craddocks. As you say it is pretty straight forward and doesn't take too long.

Should be fine, I took my series 3 lightweight upto the last SLRC event at 7S and had a good weekend, we also had a pretty much standard disco and a daihatsu sportrak in our little group.

A little bit of caution needs to be used when talking about the strength of carbon, it is a very good material with high stiffness and good compressive and tensile strengths but it's impact strength is actually worse than bog standard fibreglass laminates by some margin. Looking through some of my materials books here a typical glass laminate is shown as being in the region of 5 times stronger in impact than a typical carbon laminate. Given the use of a lot of the vehicles here I am not sure that carbon is necessarily the right material to be using for body panels. If I wanted light panels and was willing to spend carbon type money I would be inclined to think about using aramid (kevlar) fibres which has similar (but slighty better) mechanical properties to standard glass but is only around 60% of the weight. Of course you can make up laminates with a mixture of fibres (and fibre orientations) to try and get the best of both materials. I think that the use of the more exotic materials like carbon would probably result in a product that was just too expensive for most people when there is high chance of damaging it. I would tend to stick with a standard glass and resin as this will be cheaper and relatively easy to fix at home if it is damaged. Steve

Thanks José, paddocks and john craddock where on the list I gave him as they seemed a good place to start. Steve

Mo, Thanks, I will point him in that direction as well as giving him some of the names of the usual UK places. Steve

A Portugese friend of mine has asked me if I could give him a few names of places to buy Range Rover parts (in the UK) from which he would then have shipped to Portugal but I have noticed a few post from members in Portugal so I was wondering if anyone could give me any local options. He is normal based near either Lisbon or Faro so anywhere near there would be ideal. Also if there are any local clubs that I could give him the details of that would be helpful Thanks in advance, Steve

I have the Ashcroft extended ratios on my lightweight (2.25 petrol) as well as a few other engine mods from ACR but I haven't driven a standard series to compare it with. I don't worry too much about the mpg but it does give me a higher cruising speed or a more relaxed drive at a lower speed and makes the vehicle more usable if you intend to drive any distance . However as would be expected you do have to change down earlier when climbing long hills etc, also I suspect it would be far from ideal if you are planning on towing anything heavy. It is also still accelerates faster than my friend's diesel series 3. Steve

Taking measurements from mine I get the following: At the base of the panel there is a vertical section of 10mm depth, it then becomes sloped and this section extends a further 135mm (with the tape measure parallel to the panel). Hope this helps Steve

I bought the lightweight from Mark and have to agree that it is fantastic with the roof off (although wildy inpractical), and while lightweights may be a love or hate thing the number of people who come up to you and say I wish I had one of those is amazing. Having said that I am also quite fond of my Dad's V8 110 CSW (my first landrover driving experience) and the 109 pick up which I currently have tucked away in a garage (and was also my first landie). For me I run the lightweight purely as toy and it fits the bill perfectly. Steve

While on the topic of Daihatsu does anyone know anything about the F20/ F50 models (ie pre fourtrak)? I potentially have access to one and am wondering if it is worth pursuing. I believe they have a reputation as being fairly tough and with pretty good engines but I haven't really had any first hand experience with them. Cheers, Steve

I would try the forum on the Daihatsu drivers club pages on the following page: http://www.daihatsu-drivers.co.uk/ I have done a number of searches in the past for Daihatsu information and this seems the most active site. Steve

At a guess I would say just the drivers, certainly at all the Shire playdays I have been to it is only the driver asked to show membership.

The X-eng switches do look good and I will probably end up getting one of these. When I replace the fan (assuming I can't fix the old one) I intended to use the same size as it seems to be about right. Regards, Steve

Yes, it is the standard Kenlowe unit, if/when I put an electric fan back in I will probably look at alternatives.

Yes, not really out of choice though I think I got it all a little too wet and the thermosat packed up followed by the fan a few weeks later. When I get round to it I will probably have a go a taking the fan to pieces to see if I can't fix it, in the mean time I am going to fit a military fan I have picked up as a quick fix. Regards, Steve

Thank you. Regards, Steve