JonM

Mine was fixed when I replaced the panhard rod bushes.

This isn't actually about a Defender, but I thought this is the best place to ask my question. I am doing some work on my mini-digger. I've got the tank out to fix a leak on the drain cock, and I noticed there is a lot of dirt in the bottom of the tank. What is the best way to clean it out? Just rinse the loose stuff with diesel? Thanks.

Can't imagine why but the battery clamps on my '92 110 are 1/4 whitworth???

PS If you have this problem on the second row doors, don't forget to look for a child lock. Don't ask.....

I manage to get mine to open by gently working a screwdriver on the catch and popped it back up (or was it down? whatever)

The double terminal is for the brown 12v feed. Just did mine but have thrown the notes away.

The 200TDi diagram was invaluable, so thanks, despite the complicated routing! Are they in the technical archive? I couldn't find them in there.

After quite some searching I found the following .pdf with the Defender 200TDi wiring diagram. The website looked a bit Russian, so I don't know how "clean" it is. Enjoy! PS Pages 1, 4, 5, 6 are 200TDi. http://www.mattrazz.com/letters.php defender200tdi_el.pdf. Sorry, couldn't upload it from my Mac

Thanks Western! Is that also the heater earth?

Thanks. Can you tell me exactly where on the bulkhead the earthing is or should be? I can't see anything for the jungle of wires.

I am trying to work out why I lost electrical power last week [all dash dead, and of course no fuel to engine] and it subsequently cured itself. I am looking at voltage drops. Battery negative terminal to chassis is nothing, so no problem with chassis earth strap. Voltage at the battery condition indicator is 0.6 lower than across battery [engine running, alternator output 14V], further 0.6 drop when heater fan is put on high. So I am looking for the point where the earth wires behind the dash are connected to the chassis, and the point where the heater earth is located. Thanks.

Update. Yesterday I gently extracted the ignition switch so I could check the voltages on the pins [someone had kindly left the shear heads on the bolts] and lo and behold when I turned the key the panel lights came on and it started. Dodgy wiring I guess?? I have a new heater/starter switch coming so I'll replace that anyway. PS I nearly cried when I saw the state of the wiring behind the instrument panel.

Did all your instrument panel warning lights go off? Nothing lights up when I turn the key.

Wires are on and there is 12V on the brown power feed.

I was driving along in my 92 200Tdi Defender this morning, about 2 miles from home when the engine cut out. The ignition lights don't come on when you turn the switch. Battery connection seems good and lights come on. I'm guessing the ignition switch. Is there any way to test the wiring by shorting wires together to confirm it is the switch? I didn't do any hot-wiring when I was younger. Thanks.