JonM

Mine was fixed when I replaced the panhard rod bushes.

This isn't actually about a Defender, but I thought this is the best place to ask my question. I am doing some work on my mini-digger. I've got the tank out to fix a leak on the drain cock, and I noticed there is a lot of dirt in the bottom of the tank. What is the best way to clean it out? Just rinse the loose stuff with diesel? Thanks.

Can't imagine why but the battery clamps on my '92 110 are 1/4 whitworth???

PS If you have this problem on the second row doors, don't forget to look for a child lock. Don't ask.....

I manage to get mine to open by gently working a screwdriver on the catch and popped it back up (or was it down? whatever)

The double terminal is for the brown 12v feed. Just did mine but have thrown the notes away.

The 200TDi diagram was invaluable, so thanks, despite the complicated routing! Are they in the technical archive? I couldn't find them in there.

After quite some searching I found the following .pdf with the Defender 200TDi wiring diagram. The website looked a bit Russian, so I don't know how "clean" it is. Enjoy! PS Pages 1, 4, 5, 6 are 200TDi. http://www.mattrazz.com/letters.php defender200tdi_el.pdf. Sorry, couldn't upload it from my Mac

Thanks Western! Is that also the heater earth?

Thanks. Can you tell me exactly where on the bulkhead the earthing is or should be? I can't see anything for the jungle of wires.

I am trying to work out why I lost electrical power last week [all dash dead, and of course no fuel to engine] and it subsequently cured itself. I am looking at voltage drops. Battery negative terminal to chassis is nothing, so no problem with chassis earth strap. Voltage at the battery condition indicator is 0.6 lower than across battery [engine running, alternator output 14V], further 0.6 drop when heater fan is put on high. So I am looking for the point where the earth wires behind the dash are connected to the chassis, and the point where the heater earth is located. Thanks.

Update. Yesterday I gently extracted the ignition switch so I could check the voltages on the pins [someone had kindly left the shear heads on the bolts] and lo and behold when I turned the key the panel lights came on and it started. Dodgy wiring I guess?? I have a new heater/starter switch coming so I'll replace that anyway. PS I nearly cried when I saw the state of the wiring behind the instrument panel.

Did all your instrument panel warning lights go off? Nothing lights up when I turn the key.

Wires are on and there is 12V on the brown power feed.

I was driving along in my 92 200Tdi Defender this morning, about 2 miles from home when the engine cut out. The ignition lights don't come on when you turn the switch. Battery connection seems good and lights come on. I'm guessing the ignition switch. Is there any way to test the wiring by shorting wires together to confirm it is the switch? I didn't do any hot-wiring when I was younger. Thanks.

Took the wading plug out [been on there the whole 4 1/2 years I have owned the vehicle] and just a bit of dust dropped out. I'll keep looking.

I noticed the fluid in the clutch master cylinder was very low, almost empty. However, I can't see any sign of a leak. Any suggestions? The cap was not on square, it was cocked.

Yes, this is the gauge on my 200Tdi. When we checked the voltage at the battery with the engine running it would rise to 13.8 volts, while the "meter" would go to about the centre line. Sounds to me like wiring, don't see why the gauge should become erratic. I'll check the voltage on the back of the gauge. More later.

I don't know if the charging meter on my 1992 200Tdi Defender is an amp meter or a voltage meter. Anyway, for the last 4 years it has been reading 3mm to the + side. Recently however, it has been erratic, sometimes 3mm + ve, sometimes on the centre line, sometimes on the - ve side. I had the alternator and battery checked and they are fine. Anyone had this problem? Maybe the gauge is dodgy or the wiring is flaky?? Thanks.

Western, You are lucky to have a long-lived starter! The latest failure, 0 001 218 152, also has a Land Rover ID, NAD 10039 and a Land Rover symbol stamped on it. So why did Land Rover have three different model numbers for starters that all fit a 200 Tdi??? BTW, the other 2 full numbers are 0 001 218 165 0 001 218 168

Does anyone know what the difference is between Bosch starter motors: 0 001 218 152 [has ID NAD 10039] 165 168? [has ID ERR 5009, sold to me as NAD 500210]. All three seem to fit the Defender 200Tdi engine. Second question = is the solenoid the same for all three? On the recommendation of this Forum, I just fitted a new genuine Bosch starter after having 4 fail in 4 years for solenoid problems. The latest failure was a Bosch NAD 10039 with a non-Bosch solenoid [ZM 573]. The Bosch starter I have just put on has the ID ERR 5009 with a Bosch solenoid, but I am thinking I'll buy a genuine solenoid for the one I just took off in case I get another failure. Thanks.

LRSeries usually have them.

Thanks!

Does anyone know the size of the UNC bolt that can be used to ease the brake drum off a 110? Thanks.

The "snail" adjusters on my 1992 Defender 110 are dodgy and need replacing. I can't find them in Microcat - does anyone have the part number? Thanks.