Phantom

As well as the normal recovery kit I carry one or two small shackles ( normal LR sizes are sometimes too big for modern cars tow eyes ) and also a sacrificial rope for joining strops/tow ropes to awkward points or vehicles without eyes, it’s come in handy a few times!

Quote - Mike, I agree that the axle is a good place to pull from. However, most 4x4s I end up recovering at play days generally have their axles very well buried/submerged in the mud. If they don't have suitable accessible recovery points fitted I invite the driver to attach my strap around the axle themselves. They're not often that keen on the idea despite my suggestion that they could always stay in there. Although the look on their faces is priceless I've learned not to trust what they THINK they've attached to. I had a Jeep Cherokee driver attach the strap to his steering bar last year. Needless to say it didn't end well for him, and this of course leads to getting the blame for his truck getting damaged! So I guess you can understand why I like strong bumpers with integral recovery points on an offroader. This is how the idiots roll. Not even a towbar if I recall. - Quote Recovering using axles, seriously?? Your really asking for trouble, the high potential stresses and damage to suspension bushes and joints, if you don’t rip an axle off the stuck vehicle during a heavy recovery how do you think it’s going to drive after?? You won’t find the above technique in any borda or lantra training manuals ( for a reason! ) . It scares me how poor, inappropriate and bordering dangerous some ‘advice’ on the net is. If your not sure, go and get trained by a professional before you damage your vehicle; or worse, hurt someone ( btw, I’m a qualified borda instructor ).

Exhaust manifold probably warped and pulled a head stud or two out, take the main engine cover off and see if you can spy any soot around the metal manifold gasket. You get a 'screeching' from the gap when under load. Pull the manifold off, get it machined flat, replace studs and refit with new gasket

99% sure you need a new switch

Chuck a discovery transfere box in, about 15% higher gearing ( all the lt230s low range are the same so no issues off road )

Get some decent quality shoes, 99% sure that's your problem

Used both the XP and the bow2 on 8274's - both big improvement over standard

Warn do there own wireless system which obviously works with the warn contactor pack, or pop a Albright on and use one of the cheaper wireless remotes ( the Albright contactor is much more reliable than the warn 4-pack so is a good up-grade )

I had exactly the same on a customers V8 D2, popped a CPS on and away she went, worth a try

Last one I fixed was a failed head

I much prefer full lockers ( ARB or ASH ) where the driver is in control and not the transmission, have you ever driven a 4x4 with a Detroit in the rear across wet grass, oh that would be under steer, and more under steer . Open diffs with the ability to lock as required work!

Plasma cutter and clamp a wood straight edge to the job for your guide

Are you sure there different bolt sizes for the older send later style of cailipers??, they are on earlier RR's, imperial and then later metric, didn't think the discos 1's were? I in no way want to sound a kill- joy but ' DIY modified brakes' and then an accident , you'll have the book thrown at you

Only obvious problem with modifying calipers is the legality , can't you source a set of later style calipers and fit, least that way your not drilling and potentially weakening the pad retaining holes