Ridgeback
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Posts posted by Ridgeback
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I have 2 gkn overdrives for my td5 90. One came with it when I first got the 90 "they said you might want this for parts" and the other was fitted and working. One day It lost all drive so I took it off.
Does anyone know how easy they are to fix. I know lots of people don't rate them because at £1200 each they are not worth the money but I have 2 already and it was good when it worked .
I was told that Deven4x4 sell the parts now.
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I've got the ST202 turbo technics one (which is the bell auto's one) if you go direct to turbo technics it's £600!
Last time I asked TT they would not sell me one and said they don't sell them direct now.
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Thanks for the info and link, I have a boost box but at 745+vat+ p&p for the turbo only, it's still going to be over £900.
I fitted the same turbo to my 530d last year for under £500 and have now seen them available for under £400.
It's not just about the cost, part of it is the fun of playing around making something myself that works.
I know the GT2256 has been used on a td5 but I don't know what differences all the part numbers mean or what version of this turbo is the best fit to start off with.
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I have been looking into vnt turbo's for a td5 and found a number of old posts with some details of people looking into fitting one from a td6 or merc ML. I have now found that lots of cars use the gt2256 turbo including the BMW td6, 530d, 330d, merc ML 2.7 .....
They all have the same gt2256 part number but a different OEM number. Does anyone know if they are all the same. If not what's the best one to go for. I know I will need to build some manifold bits etc to make it bolt on.
I don't have the money to go spending £1200+ on one of the bolt on vnt's available from the main Land Rover tuners, plus I enjoy the work doing it myself.
What results/problems have the people that have done this mod using the gt2256 had.
I already have a large IC, no EGR, powerflow exhaust etc and know It will need to be mapped up once fitted.
I am told that a tuned td5 that was entered into the fasted Land Rover competition run by one of the Land Rover mags last year had a claimed 257bhp and was based on this conversion. (can't find any details on it, but it did win the standing quarter mile)
Once I have done this I will try taking pics and drawings of the process if it works without going bang but it's always good to find out what problems anyone else has found before I start.
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You worry about a few lanes in this country.
Well at least you are only a couple of hours from help.
From your comments you wouldn't like to be coming with me on a trip. Try at least two full days from ANY help.
I've had water over the bonnet in the River Kwai The overdrive was playing up before that.......
I would love to have the time and money to go on a trip like that. I would just make sure my Land Rover was not fitted with such temperamental rubbish.
Landrovers are temperamental enough to start with!
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I do have the other overdrive (was told the oil seals had failed and this is why it was replaced) I think its time to take this to bits and try and find what is inside that could stop it working in reverse.
How hard can it be!
The more I google GKN overdrive problems, the more I am thinking its not worth keeping it. I go on 3-4 long greenlane trips a year covering over 1000 miles per trip. I really dont want any parts fitted to my landy that could leave me without drive.
Have any of you with GKN overdrives taken them into water?
I went through a ford last week (about 500mm deep) . without taking one to bits, I dont know if water could bring on the problems I am having?
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I cant see how this is the overdrive. If you reverse with it engaged it will break as it has a one way gear system. If the OD is not functioning properly the gear setup is such that it should run as normal without the overdrive.
The overdrive was working fine and engaged/disengaged without any problem. The problems started when driving in 1st 2nd and 3rd. I then got to work and could not get reverse to work (unit was not/can not be engaged under 30mph)
It would not be such a problem if it just stopped working but left you with use of the standard gears.
It is worth changing the oil - its only 700ml in there so changing it at the suggested intervals seems to low for me. The OD works through oil pressure so anything that blocks that flow may affect engagement/disengagement of the unit. Also, some of these units have problems with sucking oil from the transfer case. If it does this, the viscous ep90 can prevent the oil pump from working properly - best way to tell is emptying the oil and seeing if it is the right mount and if it smells like ep90.
If its down to oil pressure this could be why it would work when cold but would not reverse when hot? It did not really have an engagement problem, its was 99% loss of drive. I am not sure how the overdrive works inside but when you say engagement/disengagement do you mean the reduction in gearing when you turn the unit on, or should the unit also engage/disengage to allow you to still drive in normal gears including reverse
I don't really know the cause.I had a fair few problems, including the electronics box packing up in ZA. I then fitted a five pin relay to stop me reversing with the overdrive engaged.
Before that I would have loss of drive. Just like has been described. A change of oil and a filter clean generally did the trick.
Then I lost drive at various times. generally applying power in second gear. Then I lost reverse after a run.
Did devon 4x4 do a full rebuild or just fix one part of the overdrive. What was the cost to get it going again. If the cost it too high then I think the disco gears sound like a better option because as I said before, this is the second overdrive this landrover has had. I plan to get a stage 2 remap and IC fitted to bring power up to 180-200bhp so i need something that will last.
Don't even follow the GKN oil change instructions. Change the oil every service.
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Yep that's what mine was like.
When did you last change the OD oil ?
That is worth a try and clean the filter at the same time.
Otherwise i's off with the OD. You did keep the standard gears didn't you ? Then away to Devon 4x4.
I must say they made a very good job of rebuilding mine for me.
I have not changed the oil becuase it came with history showing the 1st oil change, its only done 14K so should not need another oil change?
I cant see how the oil should make it fail like this and the problem now is that I dont trust it, even if it started working after an oil change.
I did not get the standard input gear. The last owner did not have it.
Think I will have a look at getting hold of an input gear and the plate/cover so I can drive it for now.
Did Devon 4x4 do a full recon/rebuild on yours or just fix the problem. I dont want to spend our another £800+ on someing that cant last more then 14,000 miles. That level of reliability is bad even by Land Rover standards !
Matt
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I got myself a Td5 defender 90 this summer and it came fitted with a GKN overdrive.
The overdrive was fitted 2 years ago and has done about 14K.
On the way to work (after about 50miles of motor way driving) I noticed that when I let go of the accelerator the engine braking was as normal, however when I pressed the accelerator again, the clutch felt like it was slipping for 10-15 sec before it took up drive.
When I got to the car park at work it would not reverse. Again the clutch felt like it was slipping. It would try to move in reverse but did not have enough drive to move in the snow.
After being left for the day (wait for the AA to come and get it) It would reverse but only just.
I think this must be the overdrive because if it was the clutch, I would not be able to go foward.
Any ideas what it could be and how much it will cost to fix?
Devon 4x4 will do a recon for about £800 but this is the second GKN overdrive to be fitted to this defender.(the last owner gave me the old one for parts)
I did find it very good when it was working but dont want to fit parts to my vehicle that could leave me stranded.
The other option is I could fit Disco gears for less then the cost of a recon overdrive?
Matt
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Hi Matt i fitted the new rear crossmember for nick , if the bolts that hold the fuel tank gaurd/fixing plate at the rear have to be accessed trough the rear of the crossmember you will need to buy a genuine rear crossmember this can not be purchased with extensions you will also need a second part which is a bit like piece of angle which bolts to the new crossmember and then bolts through the rear body tub forming the body mountings . This can be replaced with the body tub in place but i would allow two days to do the job comfortably especially if you have not done one before. I plasma cut the old one off but this still left plenty of grinding the old welds and plate off to save the rear of the chasis to weld the new one too. The bolts that hold the tank gaurd/ fixing plate through the crossmember sheared off due to corrosion aswell so had to cut these off and weld new nuts in place
RICHARD
Thanks Richard,
I will set out 2 days for this one then. I spent a year welding rusty trains for a living so I know what hard work it can be doing all the prep work. Mine does have the extra plate that bolts to the rear tub, did you bolt it on to the tub/crossmember to line it up before welding ?
Matt
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Hi Matt,
I have a 2002MY 110, and ordered a standard crossmember with extensions after checking with supplier.
It did not fit so a genuine LR one without extensions had to be fitted. Tank out, and lots of cursing (im told).
The differences seem to bein the forward face of the centre section. Original has a flat face, standard one with extensions had cutouts and this meant the fuel tank could not be mounted..
Not sure if this is common to all TD5's or just 2002MY onwards.
Thanks Nic,
I have been out looking under the crossmember today and was thinking the tank would have to come out. Looks like an all day job then!
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I need to replace the crossmember on my 2000 Td5 90.
I have found loads of info about fitting one to an older 90 (pre td5)but cant find any info on doing the td5 one.
I was a coded welder so I have no problems with that part but any advice before I start would be good.
What type should I get, with or without the extension rails.
Does the fuel tank need to come off.
Can it be fitted with the rear tub still fitted (in the same way you would with a 300tdi)
Who makes/sell the best Td5 Crossmember.
Thanks
Matt
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Apologies for the late reply - I like a fairly upright seat back anyway, my real reason was to get a little more seat height, I might go up a few mm more yet. The seat is back as far as it can go as it's back is against the bulkhead, I think there might be a bit more movement on the runners and going up may let it go back a little. I was quite surprised how much difference 5 mm made.
It's worth experimenting with some washers, you can always use longer screws/bolts. The rail fixing screws on mine were quite long anyway.
Cheers, H.
Thanks for that Part1cle.
I will give it a go over the weekend and with a bit of luck will find a height that works for me.
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Ridgeback, the post by Aragorn was for you.... Please read responses and there is likely to be no further need to ask again !
Unless you remove the bulkhead the seat will not recline any more.
The rails do as Ralph said, they allow you to move the seat back further as well as adding a few cms more legroom just by lifting the seat up.
Neil
I did read his responce to my question " does the Mud rail give you any more room to recline the seat back.?"
Part1cle then offered another possible way round the problem not using the "mud rail" so IMHO my second question was Perfectly reasonable?
Based on the fact that the bulkhead is tapered,I was thinking that if you lift the height of the seat rails, you might get a small amount of extra movement.
I thought the idea of the forum was for Land Rover owners to swap ideas and help each other, not count the number of questions asked?
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I just turned four steel spacers 25 dia, I think, x 25 long with a clearance hole for the screw and painted them in silk black. Been in there for a few months now and look just like they are OE fitting.
Did the 25mm lift allow you to recline the seat back much more?
Might have a play with some washers first then get some spacers made up it works.
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Thing I find with my 90 is that I feel like I need to recline the back of the seat a bit more.
With the rear bulkhead on a 90 being angled back, does the Mud rail give you any more room to recline the seat back.?
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If the QT diff gards are not up to the job, what are the best to go for because I need to get 2 for my 90
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Both of my defenders have had the cables fitted down the chassis leg.
As cookieMonster said, are you fitting a cut out switch? Most defneders I have seen have this fitted to the front of the seat box.
You really should have one fitted because if the winch was in use and the solenoid stuck, you would have no way of stopping the winch.
Its very easy to do but make sure the cables are not rubbing on anything sharp!
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my defender is a 2000 W and does not have any paint left on them.
Its started to blister in other places to. Its not just down the the steel frames rusting, some blisters are on places like the roof?
should this be fixed in the same way.
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Make sure you get an HPI report.
I have sent you a PM
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That is a lot of money for an R plate defender.
You could get a td5 for that money. Personally I don’t think Low Mileage is as important when your looking at older cars.
I have been to see low mileage cars that have not been looked after or driven very hard. An engine/gearbox with 150,000 motorway miles and proper servicing that’s never been driven hard will be much better then one that’s done 75,000 miles driving round fields and getting serviced if they remember to.
I have found that once a vehicle gets over 10 years old, things will start to need replacing because of age and not because of mileage.
If I was local I would be happy to come have a look. Be prepared to travel to find the right Land Rover. I have driven hundreds of miles and wasted countless trips but it was worth it in the end.
If you end up looking at one near Northampton then let me know.
Matt
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I was thinking about water and dust getting into the plug pins rather then the ECU.
I design LED Lighting systems for a living and in tests I have seen how moisture can get into plug pins and cause damage.
It’s a bigger problem if it freezes.
Your misfire could be down to moisture. Again from the IP testing I have had products put through, when a hot item hits water, any air inside it will cool quickly and cause a vacuum.
I think I am going to leave the loom and seals standard but look into moving the ECU up to the roof.
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I put a 200tdi in my last defender. I had the engine in bits for about 6 months sorting out all the oil leaks and fitting a new fuel pump.
When fitted I just turned it over with the fuel shut off cable off because I wanted to get some oil pumping round. I did this for 2x 30sec then put the live feed back on the fuel shut off. It started after about 20sec without any bleeding.
I have worked on 200tdi's that have run with blown head gaskets etc, one that I fixed came to me only running on 3 cylinders but it still started.
The 200tdi is a very resilient engine so it’s probably as suggested, no fuel getting through the fuel pump.
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Chris,
I see your point about stopping the oil from getting to the ECU next time but by removing the seal at the plug, will this not allow water in?
GKN O/D , fix it or eBay it
in International Forum
Posted
Thanks for the photos, they don't look that bad to have ago at .
Why did you give up on yours ?