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LiftedDisco

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Everything posted by LiftedDisco

  1. Two door will be pretty much a consideration of perceived value (in the eyes of the seller) vs the time and cost of picking them up, plus stripping them (and/or finding a home for any that might sell ‘as is’) and the dead money associated with stuff that you end up with and which is unsellable. In terms of anything four door, I paid £400 for a basket case, no MOT, hole in the driver’s door where the lock was broken and no sills to speak off. I wanted it for the chassis and running gear but made my money back on selling remaining panels, internal fittings etc
  2. I hate LR dealers with a vengance.. and I speak as someone who has tried to strike a deal for 3 x D4’s and a D5 over the last 10 years - each of the D4’s did 100k in three (warranty covered) years and one spat its’ engine at 46k. Servicing team had a new engine agreed by LR, fitted, tested and back to me within five days - it did get a bit tense when I dropped the dead truck in on the back of an AA vehicle with a comment that you ‘couldn’t just turn up with a broken vehicle’ but they soon saw sense! By comparison, servicing nightmares with Audi (A5 with multiple issues)
  3. Another vote for NFU who are good if they are on your side, but absolute Rottweilers if they are insuring the other party and claiming on your insurance... Admiral were really good with our daughter when her ambition outweighed her ability on a wet country road (as if that would ever happen to a 19 year old...) and their multi-car policy is well worth considering if you have a number of cars and/or your household insurance to cover.
  4. 235-85 R16 will run at just under 32” (31.7” to be precise) - I originally ran some 215-85 R16’s which everyone thought were too narrow but, in reality, were cracking tyres that would cut through the mire and get some decent drip whilst also giving a decent turning circle. The 215-85 R16’s will give you a tyre size of 30.3” so not quite so much clearance under the diff...
  5. Are you sorted yet? Have they eaten the electric window module? If so, i have one and can probably also sort out the relevant bits of loom to replace anything that has been attacked... PM me if you need!
  6. Ask and you shall receive... From memory (very dim and distant...) this was taken at an AWDC event at Bordon - I’d hesitate to put a date to this but I’d dragged my Dad along and suspect it was early 80’s, possibly even ‘79 as the photos are all in B&W and I would have printed these at school... Photo of the mud run included just for a laugh... pretty wet, pretty spectacular!
  7. Ianto is an absolute top chap and does know his stuff inside out... I know various folks that have been through the Off-Highway Engineering course at Harper Adams and they come out with a wealth of experience that covers both theoretical knowledge but this is then underpinned by a practical application. Our daughter was fortunate enough to do her Dissertation on autonomous vehicle capability in an off-road environment, using a top of the range Full Fat Range Rover around the engineering section at Eastnor with her output then being shared back into JLR. She’s now a Proj
  8. Try searching for Thermoplastic Honeycomb Panels - there are a number of options out there and they now use this for lightweight (but strong) bodybuilding for van conversions etc. I’ve also seen it used for boarding on scaffold towers etc - the thickness will depend on what you have for support structure and what sort of weight you are putting on / in the trailer. I’ve used some 18mm thick with a non-slip finish on a project and it’s easy to work. Hope this helps...
  9. @snagger - good point and I think I’d been taken in by the two photos shown in the OP’s first post. On reflection, the second image shows a LHD Defender, possibly with US style plates and this may explain the disparity in lighting positions between the two vehicles.
  10. Lighting requirements are all detailed in the IVA manual: https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/930212/individual-vehicle-approval-inspection-manual-vans.pdf Page 137 onwards will assist with dimensions and angles of view etc. My only comment would be that you seem to suggest putting the indicators as the outermost lamp - is this for appearance? My thoughts would be that tail-lights are going to be permanently illuminated at night and would (if used as the outermost lamp) give clear definition to the
  11. As Ross has mentioned, @discomikey is the fella to talk to - I know he’s just done manifolds for someone else and they were a work of art!
  12. Thank you - much appreciated! I’ve now found the pages - the image you’ve shown is the ECU connection and I’m after the link into the main loom... it’s only about 6 wires and I’m likely to unknit the loom to track and trace the connections.
  13. Doe anyone have a wiring diagram to go with the Wabco power brake system, as per ‘92 Range Rover Classic? I’ve got the loom that runs the power brakes, but there is a connector that links into the main loom and I’d like to understand what works what... where the connections end up etc. Can anyone help? Many thanks
  14. Did you manage to separate the explosive part / gubbins of the air bag and leave the external trim piece to reinstall in the seat? I’ve currently disconnected mine in the seat base but will (at some stage) need to put the vehicle through an IVA test and think the man in the white coat may not look to favourably on the seats if they still contain the (disconnected) airbags...
  15. Glad I’m not the only one that was irked by the constant ‘non-English’ - what on earth was all that carp about??? I’m also sick and tired of folks moaning about the costs of the New Defender - yep, the launch versions are a tad on the pricey side, but they are suggesting they are going to be ‘from £40k’ and there’s a general wailing and rending of clothes that this is ‘too much...’ I’ve been fortunate enough to look at various vehicles recently, and guess what, these prices are in keeping with the rest of the car industry - it doesn’t matter if you go Volvo, Merc or Aud
  16. I’m hoping someone might have a hard-top or County stripped and ready for paint and therefore be able to measure the sizes of the rear quarter-light window openings. I’m after the dimensions of the hole - height and then two widths, at the top (narrow end of the window) and the wider bottom dimension. I need to cut openings to take new glass and don’t have an existing hard top to measure.... can anyone assist? Many thanks!
  17. I was just about to ‘like’ a whole series of posts, all of which make perfect sense.... then realised @discomikey was responsible... Hahaha... yep, I know you have the experience and knowledge to make such statements!
  18. ... can’t help but wonder if they were the folks who nicked a single fog light from me... I mean, how low can folks go - it was one single, solitary fog light and I don’t even know what it would fit... it was a refugee from a previous pre-Newbury bulk-buy of tat (sorry, incredibly useful artefacts) and I think I was only asking £2 for it! If someone had a genuine need, I’d have probably donated it - shame they didn’t chose to nick the five grotty old RRC alloys and tyres (suitable for refurb...) that I really, really wanted to shift to give me more storage space!
  19. I’ll be meeting others at Didcot Maccy’s at 07:30, then heading in... What on earth can I buy this time around that will sell well in October?
  20. In terms of tyre sizes, they are different ways of expressing info and there’s no real ‘conversion’... you can use the information from (say) 265/75/R16 to give you the rolling diameter etc... The 31 relates to the rolling diameter, the 10.5 relates to the width (in inches, so actually 266.7mm) whereas 265 is the tread width in millimetres. The ‘75’ bit (or other number in the middle of the tyre size) is the size of the sidewall as a percentage of the width... i.e. 265/75 would have a side height of 198.75mm but, more maths coming, you then need to convert this to inches to calculate
  21. Ross’s idea of using Unistrut would work and would be cheap but will be somewhat basic and requires tools to shift the awning along. I have some load restraint rails from a Range Rover Sport which have locking tabs to go in... I might be persuaded to part with these but the question is then how best to fix the awning to the locking tab units to allow for easy movement of the combined assembly. The other potential solution may well lie with a sliding door assembly - do a Google search for ‘industrial sliding door’ and you will come up with Henderson Door kit (or similar)
  22. Miggit... I’m in Towcester with a ‘92 RRC in a state of total undress as part of a Tornado build process but it originally had ARB (albeit on 10 spline axels) and you are welcome to come for a measure-up if you want Any good?
  23. Another vote for A-Plan - not too sure if they do main vehicles, but very good to deal with. Equally NFU are spot on and would be my choice for main use - their claim service is second to none and they do understand Land Rovers - make sure you ring the local office and not just their call centre team...
  24. Still a long way from being completed, but triple wipers for the Tornado...
  25. Whilst if you follow the link to the consultation, it tells you that responses to the consultation are still being considered... Interestingly, the IVA requirements were in ‘draft’ form until 9th April with a new version then available for download from 10th April. I would (cynically) suggest that the plans were already well developed and the post-10th April IVA regs are now those in force until the next upheaval...
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