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ballcock last won the day on May 11 2016

ballcock had the most liked content!

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About ballcock

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  1. I wasn't suggesting you didn;t fit them properly but I have seen bushes fail prematurely when they have been tightened before the full weight has been put on the suspension putting the bush in constant torsion.
  2. Bearmach gives a three year warranty on their products. Have you contacted them about it? Were they fitted correctly? I have not had a problem with their bushes that I have used.
  3. I lifted my 110 CSW body off using two farm jacks by myself, it was a rather nerve racking experience. I supported it on two steel beams and concrete blocks. Having removed the front end I only had to clear the levers and wheels. As others have suggested use smaller rear wheels or remove them and lower onto a trolley. I didn't think of it. You will find as you start to lift the body there are things you have forgotten to disconnect so take it slowly and check every inch or two. Putting it back on I almost lost it I should have had help, but managed to stop it toppling, another strain on the nerves. It would have been better if I had a flat area not a slight slope.
  4. The Boge strut has probably been removed when faulty, Mine thankfully still works fine. I would suggest standard 110 spring from a newer model that hasn't got a levelling unit and if you intend carrying excessive weight occasionally consider fitting air assisters for when needed. Standard bushes are fine I re-bushed a spare set of arms so only had to swap them over, a local company wouldn't charge too much to push in and out.
  5. I understand what you are going to do, so why not just switch the wires at the switch? You will also need to alter any trailer plug to suit.
  6. The only factory made hole is where they fit the glass.
  7. If your Discovery is anything like one of mine it could be anywhere, I have removed the windscreen and found numerous places around the edge where it has rusted through. The worst places were along the top on the passenger side and the bottom corner on the drivers side where about three sections meet on the top of the A post bend. This area can be checked by removing the front wings and you can then also see how much of the lower A post is solid.
  8. I would hang the doors first then fit the parts. Make sure you fit the latches first, if you are fitting new runners mark the frames where the self tappers go in and use the old runners as cutting templates. Take your time they aren't difficult just fiddly.
  9. Where possible I use two hammers im;pacting on opposite sides, all you need is a slight deflection in the cone for it to come apart. I have never used that type of splitter I used to use the fork type you hit in between but these ruin the rubbers.
  10. I would strip the old engine first and see what actually needs replaceing.
  11. Have you checked the chassis to make sure it's square? Check the rear axle is parallel to the chassis with a straight edge along the wheel rims. Has it got a lift kit as this will move the front axle to one side if not using an adjustable panhard rod?
  12. I replaced the lock on mine after some scum nicked keys from my lock up, I was able to get a pair of locks with matching keys from some one on Ebay. If you are buying a new lock it might be worth considering buying a set of locks with matching keys to use on other things on the truck save having to have multiple keys for various locks.
  13. As I say a can of worms, I have my opinion and you are entitled to yours.
  14. This is a different can of worms. The fan only needs to run if the radiator is not doing its job. That is how the viscous unit works, so the temp control should be on the return or low level on the radiator. a better system would be a two stage temp control with either two fans or high and low speeds. Let the fight begin.
  15. The term used is normally "crabbing" when the rear wheels do not follow the line of the front. If your trailing arm is bent it will cause this as it pulls the rear axle out of alignment with chassis. a replacement will hopefully correct it, but it would be worth checking the chassis for twist. easiest way to this would be to measure diagonally from four points on the chassis extremities and ensure they are equal. I believe there is a post on the forum describing this check somewhere.
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