ballcock

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ballcock last won the day on May 11 2016

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About ballcock

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  1. I will send you a pm over the next couple of days with a list of what has been done and photos to show the condition, If there are any particular parts you would like photos of it is not a problem. As I said it is clean and solid I was re-building it for my own use but situations change unfortunately.
  2. I Don't know where you are in the country or how far you are willing to travel? Is it only a 300Tdi you are looking for? I have a1992 original 200Tdi 12 seater Csw, with a full Mot just finishing a body off rebuild. Not perfect but solid and clean with a few useful mods, up for sale shortly. Located South Wales, looking for about £7k if you are interested can send more details, photos etc.
  3. Complain. It should travel in a straight line, if they can't do a proper repair complain to your insurance company and reject their work
  4. I can't remember using them for anything when rebuilding mine. I can check later.
  5. Hi Red90 I have never heard this done before. Do you need to reverse the polarity as well, or is it alright using it as normal?
  6. They also have some welding accessories including an auto darkening mask for £30 and angle magnets.
  7. One of my club members has one I can have so will collect it tomorrow.
  8. I know the feeling. It's all the little bits that can take time, I'm still slogging away at mine. It doesn't help when you drop and crack the windscreen whilst trying to clean it.
  9. Most modern vehicles are using push fit fittngs on their fuel lines and have for many years. as they are easily demountable by pushing the locking ring back against the pressure to release. they seal with an "O" ring which is suitable for the liquid they carry. If the pipe is damaged with a scratch or split they will leak. a simple solution might be to take the fitting apart and check the seal and pipe or use a copper compression fitting as most lines are either 8 or 10mm diameter. Don't overtighten as the pipe will collapse. I have bypassed my sedimentor with a 10 x 8mm reducer with no problem and also replaced a faulty pipe from the tank with a length of 8mm copper.
  10. A very impressive build and write up. Well done and it will give many others inspiration.
  11. I'm hoping to get the front end on my 110 back together, refit the brake master cylinder and bleed the brakes. With a bit of luck I might get the old girl back mobile under her own steam. Then it's rebuild the dash and work rearward.
  12. Glad you got to the bottom of it.
  13. Run a lead from the starter ignition feed to a test bulb you can see when you try to start it to ensure it's getting power as you try to start it to eliminate your ignition switch, Is the click coming from the starter if so connect the test lamp to the starter side of the solenoid.
  14. Looking good, I'm in the process of replacing mine on the 110 after refitting the chassis so I took the front wings off used the engine hoist to remove it but lifted it back in place over the engine without anything on it. So presently bolting everything back on and trying to remember which plug and socket goes together.
  15. Most people say you wouldn't need cranked arms on a 2" lift, as for the spring rates try loading the front with the weight of a winch and see if it sits better. If it does either buy a winch or try a set of standard springs you can buy second hand cheap enough.