I have thought about that but as it was already an Ms2 it was not worthwhile until now. could you PM me a price for the board if you have it. Many thanks Tom.
Having bought a Megasquirt 2 many years ago (which is what led me to LR4x4 in the first place) I have been slowly getting around to fitting it. It was originally set up to run a four cylinder I believe, at the time I knew next to nothing about them and was planning on fitting another brand to my then project. If I knew more then I would have gone for a Megasquirt 1 with all the available knowledge on this forum. However as I had the 2 I decided to continue with it. I modded the board to run 8 cylinders on wasted spark and decide to fit it to my Discovery V8 no problem with that but whilst attempting to modify the daughter board to switch different maps I was a little ham fisted and have probably damaged the board beyond repair. Toooo much solder onto the one component then trying to remove excess . Possibly repairable with micro surgery but I haven't the equipment. My question is. Where can I purchase a replacement daughter board as nobody seems to advertise them? Or the other thought was whether to fit a Megasquirt 1 chip and make the necessary changes to suit? Has any body either available at a fair price? Many thanks in advance Tom.
I agree that the licence should be on the fuel, these zero rated vehicles still produce road pollution from tire wear, brake dust, they add to the congestion and deterioration of the highways and yet get away with no RFL. I see no reason not to have a disc as visual proof of legality or will they issue every body with anpr readers.
Looking good! It's pulling on the front panel when you have weight in the drawer that puts a lot of strain on the screws. that's why I used straps to pull on the side panels.
If you are fixing handles to the front to pull the drawers open you may find the screws will give out after a while, I used straps through the sides and fixed internally on mine.
As he says it's not practical. He may already have another Land Rover or put the money toward something that suits him better. I personally would prefer a station wagon or a 90 hard top.
Could you not cut a small neat hole that will allow access to one clutch cover bolt, slacken that and then rotate till another until all are freed. Then make a rubber cover to fill the hole afterwards? Another thought, although you've tried it on the starter has this been with it in gear an the clutch depressed as if it's not the splines holding it the only other would be the spigot bush and this should free with spinning.
If it's in the same garage to be repaired they should foot the bill. Was the mileage recorded at the clutch replacement? If they refuse to correct their faulty workmanship report them to your local trading standards even if you were riding the clutch it should last a lot longer than 800 miles so the part was not fit for purpose. If they are not willing to accept responsibility cause a big fuss. You have paid already in good faith and the fault lies with either them or their supplier.