I have fitted Discovery 1 seats in my 110 both front and rear, XS half leather with the Land Rover logo. I made a bracket to attach them in the rear so they fold as originals to give good use of the rear compartment and the front i've modified to fit on the original fixing points and hinge to the rear to access both seat storage boxes they are about 40mm higher than original bases but are very comfy and look right. The only real problem I had was the door handles fouled the deat backs when folded flat so I replaced the handle with straps made from webbing.
People have built a seat box to accomodate two seats in the rear instead of the triple or bench. this gives you the option of fitting various front car seats that aren't too large and match the same in the front. but this option won't allow you to fold the rear seats and make the most of the space, there are various topics relating to replacement seats on the forum that make interesting reading.
I am not sure how that is working, surely the simplist way would be to feed the tell tale dash light direct from the indicator supplies with diodes inline.
I have heard of people using resin or pva, how effective they are I don't know. When I recovered mine I used lining carpet which helped to reinforce it. To clean the foam of I just used a stiff brush and vaccum cleaner and use a good spray adhesive for whatever you cover it with.
It's not the impeller causing the problem. Due to their position on the vehicle water gets into the motor end and seems to have frozen and blown the unit open.
It could be, if you are not using it regular you could dry it off and put something there to absorb water. you can also buy an ultra-violet dye to add to the system and trace with an ultra-violet lamp. I have made up a spare cap at times with a tyre valve to pressurise the system cold to look for leaks.
I aquired a 30T press from my local scrappy, I was dropping of some bits and pieces and spotted it, when I asked about it the cylinder was leaking and the air assist was missing. I did a deal on it thinking it was worth it just for the frame, I stripped the cylinder fitted a new seal blanked the air assist and now got an excellent shop press for less than £50. What I need now is some tooling for it.
It could be the pivot pin worn at the dog gear end, the solenoid has full travel but doesn't engage the drive cog. but as said the starter motor should not spin until the drive cog engages with the fly wheel.
The sidelights have a permanent live supply, possibly a bad earth as the stop solenoid takes very little current to stay open and could be the light supply back feeding through the stop solenoid to a better earth.
I have a pair of those but I think they are the lower wattage. I bought them when they were on offer, I like the design with the lens folding safely and the fixing clamps and door hooks.
I wouldn't know as I fit my own. I would also think it depended on your location and whether you are contemplating main dealer or local garage. Hopefully someone can give you a more accurate idea.
If you can't get the correct size and intend to use a die grinder why not just drill a series of holes around the circumference and have less material to remove.