RustyNissanPrairie

pull the injectors and/or glow plugs and leave the engine in gear to allow the engine to spin over easily and provide braking vacuum. If the cambelt has gone then as above but take the push rods out (if a LR engine).

been awhile, but another one! Please report http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rover-defender-chassis-on-logbook-1985-110-/171923965680?hash=item28077786f0

its not so much the amount of torque produced but the fact its producing that amount lower in the rev range - the four cylinder 'bangs' are further apart - whereas at higher revs and where a tdi normally comes on boost the combustion pulses are closer together which my tired brain reckons is better for a gearbox (?) Its how I drive my Ford Transit even though it has a VGT and does pull from low down I dont want the expensive DMF taking a hammering. Incidentally - whereabouts is the LR you mentioned above? - im paying my brother a surprise 40th birthday visit in a few weeks and the pound is strong against the Oz dollar at the moment.

Im currently rebuilding a Defender 200tdi engine from the block upwards. The engine and turbo is pretty shot so am looking at an extensive rebuild. I've previously looked into and wanted to include a VGT into the rebuild but I'm sticking with a standard turbo. The reason being that the VGT produce torque/power at lower revs but I don't believe this is a good thing for the gearbox/crankshaft. I'd rather be running higher revs/lower/smoother loading than lower revs/big heavy 4 cylinder thumps thru a gearbox that's close to its design limits already.

Pasted below are my musing from when I had a 6 bolter! Good box but I wanted to run Sumo bars and the Disco style track rod end setup so went with a 4bolter after 3 or 4 years of running the rebuilt Gemmer. http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=58812 Quote; I know you can get a refurbed PAS box for £180 odd quid or so but I have the means and time at work to do it myself, anyway for anyone else bored/stupid/tightfisted enough to want to rebuild a 6 bolt Gemmer HD PAS box themselves-below is a list of the stuff you need. Instructions; http://www.landrover...0_WSM_book4.pdf Additional parts required to rebuild a 6 bolt Gemmer PAS box other than a standard aftermarket seal kit from Ebay/Paddocks etc (Part number RTC5071). The genuine LR kit is £157 als5 Top cap bearing (retained by the 6 bolts); Torrington B2012 full compliment roller 1 required Main housing bearings; Upper- Torrington B2016 full complement roller 1 required Lower- Torrington B2020 full compliment roller 1 required Input shaft; Torrington B126 or IKO BA126Z Seals Input shaft seal; Use standard 27*19*5 seal provided in kit, however if input shaft is worn/pitted use SKF or Chicago Rawhide Speedi Sleave part number 99076 in conjunction with standard seal. http://www2.chicago-.../PDF/457027.pdf Main shaft seal; Upper/Inner high pressure seal, OE part-use instead of item provided in seal kit. Claron Hydraulic seals Ltd, Polyseal part number P175125/1 Page 59 http://www.claron.co...df/claron10.pdf (they will send you one as a sample if you blag them) Dirt wiper/lower seal; Use 45*32*6mm seal provided in kit or part number 10004219 from Eriks seals&orings http://www.eapseals.com/ Additional dirt wiper/lower seal Eriks V ring type A, part number 10014205 size ref V32A Settingtool; Dingocraft, http://shop.dingocro...ther_tools.html Or turned & externally knurled aluminium collar, dimensions: overall diameter 63.5mm (2.5"), internal diameter 19mm (0.75"), height 25mm (1.0") It all makes a bit more sense when you remove the two shafts from the box, however the output shaft seal arrangement is that the Claron seal goes in first, or is the upper seal, with the EAP lip seal on the lower or bottom. The V ring type seals are additional and not normally fitted but offer increased sealing helping to keep dirt out of the seal housing area. Mines been fine 3 years after I rebuilt it. Quote MultiQuote

Stainless actually increases the amount of galvanic corrosion - zinc ( preferably in either galvanized or sherardized form) is the best for Landrover based applications ie mild steel & aluminium materials. SS is okay as long as its smothered in Duralac (or better) or has a physical barrier. http://www.preservationscience.com/materials/metals/PGC.html

"Dowty" is OEM for the rear crank seal - and should have the name/word on the metal portion of the seal. Anything green coloured and claiming to be OEM is likely to be carp. Dowty ones are £30+ but I've never usually paid more than £12 / £15 for them - keep an eye on Ebay for new old stock. Why not keep the 2.5NA but fit a later NA/TD head that had far better porting, coupled with a bigger airbox (like the Donaldson Wolf ones that appear on ebay) and a tweak of the max fuel screw on the pump makes a massive difference to a 2.5NA. It will never be as good as a TDI but it is simple and bulletproof. edited to add: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-DISCOVERY-200-TDI-REAR-CRANKSHAFT-OIL-SEAL-OEM-ERR2532-/271271369560

if you want to paint a full Lanny and arnt too bothered about keeping the original factory colour then roller painting is a good method - BUT - it does take a long time to do properly. I've painted my 110, numerous bike frames and the upper front roof area of my Transit with rollers. The basic idea is to get as thick layer of paint on as smooth as possible then flatten back with 1500 grit to remove the roller lumpy surface, then keep repeating until you have a decent paint thickness/smooth surface. Finish off with t-cut/cutting compound then wax to protect. Rustoleum is a great paint - but I believe but is funny about being recoated in anything other than Rustoleum. It is available in white/tintable that can be pigmented to any colour. I get it from Decor8 in Bury because im local (ish) Hammerite - is carp nowadays, forget it. If you are wanting to do small areas - then Halfords aerosols are surprisingly good, the match to my Frozen white Transit was spot on and far better than other suppliers. It covered well and rust hasn't reappeared.

Did France/Spain/ibiza in our Transit last year, the original plan was to avoid autoroutes much as possible, and we know France pretty well from having family&friends there but you forget just how big the country is and the plan for avoiding autoroutes went well out of the window when you start running out of time/holidays! The autoroutes get you to your destinations quicker but at the expense of tolls&boredom!

I think that might be the easiest - find a panel with the filler removed, and now im thinking aloud - have someone draw a template, scan it and sticky on this forum so other members (like myself and Tacr2man) can print it at full size and stick it onto the panel and cut the outline in exchange for a few beer tokens? Not sure what my filler is off - its identical to the piccy above

I've been thinking though that I might borrow the large Karcher diesel powered steam cleaner from work and give the bulkhead a good blasting to get the waxoyl out prior to galving My 110 is having a full strip and rebuild so everything is being stripped off and sorted into separate boxes/stillages for shot blasting (smaller stuff in my own cabinet) bigger stuff like the tub cappings, tub floor supports, bulkhead etc by a local media blasting company that I've used before for industrial machinery rebuilds. Everything is then either going to powder coat, galvanising, or electroplating in a single large batches.

thought so! the hunt for a localish bulkhead begins!

Wanting to have my bulkhead galvanised, the only problem is that it must have between 5 and 10 litres of waxoyl squirted in it with loads up around the vent area. I think I know the answer already................but do I have to get the waxoyl out first before I galv it?

Im adding a Series style galvanised fuel filler surround to my 110 tub for use as a water fill for the onboard tank. Its a bit daunting so wondering if anyone else had done and made a template?

That sounds interesting ! Who's chassis was that?