Boro

Tried this myself mainly because i had a great big tin of tractor grease i bought by mistake some time ago, im still testing but so far its working very well, coated some new steel with it over 6 months ago and its been sat outside all that time and not a spot of rust on it to date, should be great in cavities

I have a pair of new genuine bushes i bought in 2011 and never used if you want them, £25 for the pair including delivery

Cheers guys, which is the better r380 gearbox to go for? (seem to recall newer boxes being better due to improvements), meant to say in my first post im not too bothered if i need to change the tunnel, dash and heater, the vehicle is far from original already, cheers for the heads up on the clutch im not sure what clutch it has at the moment as its got a 4.2 from an lse but i would guess the friction plate will be the earlier type then to match the lt95

Which 5 speed manual gearboxes can be fitted in place of the 4 speed manual in an early classic with rover v8 engine, i dont mind having to fabricate brackets or creating a custom bolt in cross member or alter/replace the floor but i dont want to have to cut the chassis as its a galvanised chassis, nothing wrong with the 4 speed but i would like something thats a little quicker to change gear and with better ratios

Bought from dls a few times and been fine but as jon says cheap is bad, for things like gearbox internals try and stick with genuine parts or quality names such as timken, skf, fag etc when it comes to bearings

As long as the tyres are the same size yes

Sent you a pm yesterday just let me know either way ok, cheers

I get good rates on courier delivery so let me know if you want me to find out a price, they will be going on ebay soon enough if not

Mark where abouts are you as i have the radius and trailing arms from my old 300 tdi still

When i replaced the tank on mine i made up a replacement for the steel pipe between the tank and filter using this stuff http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/8MM-x-2-5MTR-CUPRO-NICKEL-KUNIFER-FUEL-PIPE-/360388882470?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item53e8d9f026 if you pickup a small pipe bender you can get a factory finish, whilst you could use normal copper pipe it does work harden and still corrodes over time which this does not

How long has it been doing this? did it start with a warm dry spell?

Not been able to get on here in a while but i did check it out, flange felt fine and i think what im seeing is due to it having no muck shield fitted

Whilst under the rangerover the other day i noticed that the front diff drive flange appears to have come out of the diff a little, i say appears as theres a shiny area of steel on the flange sitting outside of the seal, it could of course be that i have never noticed this before and the oil had kept the diff flange from rusting since i have a feeling the seal may have been replaced about a year ago by the previous owner, can anyone tell me the measurement from the diffs nose to the side of the flange the prop attaches to so i can compare before i start pulling it apart, thanks

8mm id if using rubber from memory and make sure its high pressure injection hose, however i would be tempted to opt for nylon hose for the main run with good quality rubber hoses either end, such as this http://www.ebay.co.u...=item20c47a5bf1 dont have the links to hand but you can buy all the fittings for that stuff online and its what all modern cars use

If you dont have one already worth considering getting a little regulator with gauge for the gun like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Iwata-Spray-Gun-Regulator-With-Gauge-/251035025325?pt=UK_Body_Shop_Supplies_Paint&hash=item3a72da7fad you may even find you can buy one that converts the thread of the gun to the thread of your hose