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Getting Comfortable
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About jonahnaylor

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  1. Ok thanks for the advice, I'll ask the seller if he can register it on Q plate and get it legally verified. Otherwise it sounds like I'll have to leave it unfortunately.
  2. Ok thanks for the advice. The seller has sent photos of pretty much everything. The V5, chassis welded in VINs, engine number, gearbox number, VINs under bonnet and in windscreen etc. Is there a way I can get it made legit by him before buying and is a comprehensive HPI check not enough then? It also has a full MOT so the test station must of thought the chassis was ok??
  3. Hi I am thinking of buying a land rover that seems to check out. In that it has a V5 and an MOT and the vin numbers all match and chassis numbers etc. The only problem is the previous owner said he bought a rolling chassis from a friend, and used that chassis to rebuild the land rover - so his friend kept his chassis numbers which he cut out when he sold the chassis, then the new owner welded his chassis numbers into the used chassis so everything now matches as it should. However how do I check this is all legit and legal and not a stolen vehicle or such? Some forums and info seems to say that second hand chassis' can't be used, while others say you need a Q plate registration with an IVA test?? Is there a way to ensure I can buy the land rover without getting into to trouble later or losing my money?
  4. Hi I wondered if anyone could offer any advice. I recently changed my swivel housing, top pin, railko bush, halfshaft bearing etc on the O/S and then I did the preload weight with a digital measure and shimmed it up. Nice job :) No play at all left, right or up or down. Fanstastic and I was very happy! Previously it was pitted and I had various play going on. But my problem since completing the job is my steering just seems too light and there is a lot of vagueness and play. Like you can drive and wiggle the steering wheel an inch left to right in the middle without it having an effect on and still driving straight. But that may have been there before and isn't really the main issue I noticed, which is that the steering seems to be more of a battle, like I am always drifting on or off the road and having to constantly correct things or steer one way more than the other all the time on certain bends or roads. Maybe I was just used to the very solid and stiff way it was before, but it used to seem very planted and there was no drift or constant correction. Anyway I had a brainwave. I thought "well maybe if the shim preload weight on the O/s is now correct to the manual, possibly the other side has a lot more resistance..." So my thought was should I increase the resistance on the Off side and actually remove some shims?? Or do I leave it as the green bible says - could it be coincidence or something else?? Thanks for any help :)
  5. Hi I wondered if anyone could help with any advice for my Land Rover series III swb. I recently replaced my front driver's side half shaft bearing, swivel bearing and top pin, AND wheel bearing. And I did my preload with a fishing/luggage hand weight measure for the swivel bearing/steering arm. I shimmed it all up etc and torqued everything correctly to recommended tensions. The wheel bearing I tightened it by hand til it just felt good (so unsure it is right), I used the "land rover tool". And when I finished there was no play top to bottom or left to right. OK so then I drove the Land Rover for a month or more and it has felt great and much better. The other day I thought I best check there is still no play, so I jacked it up and was gutted to find top to bottom (or 12-6) slight play... I thought this must be the Wheel bearing as I only tightened that by hand, but on reading online I see that swivel play tends to be 12-6, while left to right (or 3-9) is wheel bearing. Well I still don't have any play 3-9/left to right so I'm pretty confused. How can it be the Swivel bearing if I've done it to the book with a proper measure on the preload?? So anyway, I bit the bullet and I've removed a couple of shims anyway, despite not wanting to mess up my correctly set preload I thought it was worth a try. But there is still a bit of creaky play there. Not knocking but a little movement. I've taken 2 of the 4 shims out and it hasn't made a lot of difference (if any...) so do I take the last two shims out and totally mess my preload up, OR could this still be the Wheel bearing that needs tightening up a bit more? Again I have no side-to-side play so I am very confused and unsure what to do. Thanks for any help at all :)
  6. Hi have bled the brakes on my Series 3 previously with a "one-man bleed kit" from Halfords as usually the missus is out and I don't have anyone to grab to help when I happen to work on the car. It has worked reasonably well in the past. But I've just replaced some brake lines and put some new brake shoes and pistons on... This time when I've tried to bleed the breaks with the one-manner I get constant air bubbles in the tube. To the point where I've gone through a ton of DOT4 trying to get the air out to no avail. I've tried not undoing the nipples very much but can't eliminate the air. The pedal needs pumping a few times on a test drive before I get any brakes at all and it is quite a soft and spongy experience. But the reservoir stays full, master cylinder looks ok and dry and the brakes do work with the air in - just not very well. Now here is what I hoped someone with more experience could advise on! If the brake reservoir is always full and not depleting and I can't see any leaks of brake fluid anywhere on my new unions and lines - can air still get in somehow? Or is it just that the one-man bleed is a load of rubbish and is fit for the bin?? I'll borrow a friend to try to bleed them again to see if we can get better results doing it the old "two-person" way instead, but it still is on my mind that I've missed something with the new brake pistons or lines... Thanks for any advice
  7. Hi I hope someone with more experience can help me out. I have a 1972 Series 3 SWB Land Rover. Last week I noticed when I got to around 30mph the steering wheel would start shaking and juddering in my hands. Quite a scary thing to experience really and it doesn't give much confidence that your car is safe! I already knew from the last MOT on just an advisory that there was some play in my driver's side wheel bearing, so I thought it must be a sign that I'd gone too long and it needed tightening up. I already have a spare wheel bearing if it needs replacing, but once I'd jacked up the car and got the spring hanger on an axle side the "play" wasn't really what I expected. There was a little left to right (3 and 9) but the top to bottom (12 and 6) was more of a clonk or knock. So I tightened up the wheel bearing rather than taking everything out just to see if it would get rid of the play and the knock movement. Tightening it up completely removed the side to side (3 and 9) play. But the up and down knock or movement is still there and quite significant. The wheel seems to rotate and spin smoothly and I can't hear any nasty noises, maybe just a touch of brake drag but it seems smooth. Part of the confusion for me is that reading online some people say 3 and 9 is usually wheel bearing and others say it is swivel bearings. While others say 12 and 6 is more likely wheel bearings and others say is is swivel! When looking at the axle from the front of the car while knocking or moving the wheel up and down I can see the whole drive train ( if that's the right word for it ) moving. The play doesn't appear to be in the hub or at the wheel itself. So now I'm thinking swivel bearings, but are these not for side to side and steering action rather than up and down?
  8. Hi I have a Series III 1972 petrol 2.25. I noticed to today that the hose that comes from the breather rocker cap to the inlet has split. I've searched everywhere and I can't find a part number for this. It seems the hose is maybe 8mm at the Oil cap end and a touch bigger (10mm) at the inlet pipe side. Can anyone please help, I'm new to Land Rovers at the moment and just looking to replace some of the worn hoses/pipes and easy bits to start me off. Or do I just buy any old 3/8" car hose..? If so though, surely there is the correct part number and length and shape out there for sale? Thanks very much for any help or if anyone know the best suppliers for bits - I'm used to my MGB GT which places like Moss and the MGOC just have masses of diagrams and part numbers for every screw, hose and bolt etc making sourcing the right bits online too easy. Thanks once again and I can't wait to learn more about my new Land Rover!!
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