stumonkey17

Thanks Snagger. I thought there would be a simple reason but hadn't considered lubrication and cooling. One of the best thing about this forum is people's willingness to share their knowledge.

Sorry for the slight sideline for this question but I've always wondered why diesels need a return pipe. I assume it's something to do with a petrol carb only pulling the required amount of fuel so there is nothing to return. If this is so then why does a diesel injector pump pull excess fuel? I'm sure there's a simple answer that more knowledgable souls know but prior to my current experiences with land rovers I'd only ever worked on petrol engines so it's still a mystery to me.

In the case of my series 3, everywhere! Actually that's not totally fair. The previous owner had also just used insulation tape, but only where he attached hidden bell push wire to live circuits for unknown reasons.

Although it's been a while since the original post I'm in the process of designing a loom for my series 3 with a 200tdi conversion. Old wiring had been messed around with by previous owners so I've decided to start from scratch. Whilst re-learning my secondary school physics I came across this calculator. Thought it might be of help to others so here's the link. http://www.solar-wind.co.uk/cable-sizing-DC-cables.html

Can't help with location but DVLA still has the vehicle registered with the details you mentioned. Tax is due for renewal on 1st may so looks like it's still out there somewhere. Sorry I can't help more.

I found that adding an extra hinge helped a lot with the extra weight. The door was starting to sag on it's hinges when open with only two hinges. I added an extra one between the tub and the top of the door bottom section and it helps a lot.

I received a small set of 12 teng sockets as an introductory offer for a subscription to a well known lr magazine a few years ago. Even when using them with cheaper ratchets they have worked brilliantly. I also still use a set I bought from halfords 16 years ago and although they aren't marked professional the ratchets and sockets are still working (although they don't seem to click much any more). Very solid kit even after a lot of long term abuse.

As Les said that's how mine came off. Seemed odd to need a really small hex head tool to get access to a massive nut. Wierd design. Guy in the motor factors thought I was having a laugh when I asked if they stocked both.

I'm planning on removing the free wheelers from my series 3. It has the later type of axle. Which parts will I need to fit to go back to how it should be?

An official tom tom mount is available from apple. It is a sucker type mount but is great for using with a gps application as it boosts the signal reception. Only down side is that when I last looked they were £100 so unless they come down in price or can be found somewhere else, possibly used, then they are ****** expensive.

Just a very quick note to mention that whilst working on a friends BMW recently I needed a 32mm offset spanner for the viscous fan. I knew that this was the same size as the one I would need for removing the fan on the 200TDi that I have waiting to go into my series. I had read previously of people hunting to try to find these but found that they are actually sold in Halfords for £11.99. http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_214258_langId_-1_categoryId_165469 Might save a couple of people the hastle of looking to hard if they need to get one. Big plus for me was that my friend had to buy one so it's now available for me to use when I need it!

Loop 2 zip ties together with one around the bottom part of the belt near to the bottom seat belt mount. Put the second zip tie around the seat runner so that the bottom of the belt is held next to the seat base but further forward than it would usualy fall. Then when the belt reels back in it is held further forward than it normaly falls and held away from the door catch. Sorry if the explanation isn't great but if you try it hopefully it will make sense. Works well on my series 3 so should be effective on any series or defender. HTH Stu

I used to have a list of the spec of Tonks 2A but lost it when my computer died . Would love to have it again as it was a sort of wish list for my re-build aspirations. As far as I remember it had a 200TDi with most of the other things listed in your original post and a few extras. I think it is now owned by some other lucky forum member now. If anyone has the spec and any info on how it was achieved I'm sure it would help you with your ideas (and mine as they are pretty similar). I'm also pretty sure that it was running on the original plates as well so I'm guessing that it would be possible to keep the tax free status.

Mine is a 1982 series 3. I guess it's basically 10 spline at the diff so I'm thinking of going for the toyota option. How much work is it to swap it over and any idea how much I should expect to pay for the parts?

How much better are 24 spline axles than 10 spline and how do they compare to toyota internals? I know this is a pretty wide ranging and subjective question bug as I'm in the process of a rebuild I'd like to have the opinions of people who have taken each route before I decide which way to go. Thanks in advance.