drewbar

There is a wikihow on hand painting cars, also look for rustoleum and plastidip they're both products people have good success with in diy form. Of course there is always NATO green for a land rover!

I've got a ford rs turbo recaro mounted on the drivers side in mine sat on the original defender seat rails, its very comfortable and great holding but the big bolsters do mean getting in and out has been compromised but I can live with that

I think what it lacks in wow appearance to some it makes up for in terms of great build quality and simple design, this car really is on par with zee Germans

I've found the cushion in my truck does the trick but its a bit unstable so going to make myself up some seat raisers I think

I've got a similar problem with driving mine I find I get achey shoulders after driving for even only a short while. I may try the cushion technique and see how I get on.

Does it do it in any specific gear??

Clean it all off with brake cleaner and run the engine and see if you can see where the oil is gathering from.

Take the belt off and test to rule out if the noise stay or goes, if it goes, turn over each of the ancillary drive componenets by hand until you find which one doesnt feel right.

And always check the parts match before fitting

Unfortunately is always the way it seems these days, I just dont expect britpart items to fit anymore they're that bad! I've had a lot of bad parts from GSF for my other cars as well so its not just about Land Rover, best bet is buy genuine really I think. Do the job once and do it right.

Best best for you clutch pedal is perhaps to disconnect the master cylinder from the system and first ensure the pedal pivots are OK, if they are I would look toward the clutch being at fault perhaps. Many heat cycles through a clutch pressure plate will lead to a very stiff clutch, if the vehicle has seen a lot of off road use or towing use this will cause a lot more wear on the clutch. For your brakes, ensure that all the pistons are free and moving as said above, a strip and clean of all the calipers may be a good relatively low cost place to start.

The best way I find is to the jack the vehicle up onto axle stands and then run it wheel free off the ground at roughly what ever road speed your find the issue at, with the help of an assistant listen on the vehicle to try and isolate which area the noise is originating from. Once you have established which component is appering to be at fault, its normally worth taking an oil sample, you will probably find a large amount of metal in the oil.

It may be worth inspecting the clutch fork to ensure it is still striaght and not twisted/broken for any such reason.

The serial number should be just above the weld line in the middle of the axle on the diff pan side IIRC

Thanks for the help guys, I was a bit confused at first as my lock was totally different to ones in the pictures, turns out someone has fitted an early defender/series lock at some point. WIth the help of this article: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=73649 Ive rebuild it all and its working great now! Cheers!

So basically I had a bit of a cock up, I drilled out the rivets on the rear door lock, opened up the lock and bits went every where, my reason for doing this was to change the lock barrel which i have since learnt was completely unnecessary, so I've replaced the lock barrel no problems but I need to rebuild the lock now, I've searched about all I can and I can't find any info on how the springs should be set and I just can't work it out, the problem springs are two that go around the handle shaft, I can't work out where they should locate, I will get some pictures this afternoon to help explain myself!! In the mean time if anyone has any pictures of the insides of a rear door lock or an exploded diagram that would be a great help I think

Excellent thanks a lot!!

OK, so I found the source of my problems in the form of this!! A disgusting amount of crimps and corrosion but not to worry we can fix this! However I also found this plug that I can't identify from the connector library or my wiring diagrams, it was cable tied to the towbar under the vehicle and runs off of the rear lighting loom as well

OK great, it has the plastic type plugs so it is the 300tdi loom then, that should be a big help as I at least know which wiring diagrams to use

Hey guys, I have just picked myself up a defender, its got a bit of a history, being a 1990 90, started life as a pick up and has been converted to a station wagen, and some where along the lines, the chassis has been replaced for a glavinised item and the 200 tdi swapped out for a 300tdi Enter me purchasing the vehicle as a "project" None of the rear lights work a part from the OSR tail light, , I've been through and replaced all the bulbs and fuses etc, the main problem comes in the rear lighting harness where it connects in the engine bay, I have a whole load of wires here not connected to anything. I have found some wiring diagrams online to help me out, but I dont know how to tell if the harness is the 200tdi item or a 300 tdi item or if there is a difference at all for that matter. The other thing that would be very helpful which I cant find is a pin out diagram of the of the connections for the rear lighting harness in the engine bay at present I have a 4 track block connector and a 6 track block connector. If anyone can help me out or point me in the direction of some useful thread that would be great!