tom_580

I have a P38 V8 which has had an going issue with starting. With a brand new battery it will start. However after about a month it will fall to start with all the signs of a flat battery. Once is charged as soon as the ignition (without trying to start it) is turned on the volts will drop away. There is no draw on the battery when the vehicle is parked. Has anyone else had a similar problem? From what I have read from other posts one thing I will check is the earth from battery. Prasumably this goes direct to the chassis? I will drop test the battery to see if it has failed in the intervening month. Never the less over time it will fall to start by something which seems to drain the battrey. Any advice greatly recivived. I will report back. Regards, Tom

Could just be over filled then. I had two packs of grease so used one on each swivel. I'll keep an eye on it and report back if needed.

I seem to have a lot of swivel grease seeping from both swivels on my 94 RRC. About 12 months ago I had a seized wheel bearing as a result of a bodge from the pervious owners’ garage. As I had it all apart (replacing the stub axle) I also inspected the swivel joint itself and filled it with new grease. I also inspected the other side as well and filled that with new grease. Now after a few hundred miles I have the grease seeping all over the brake disc guards on the inside of the axle. What would be causing this? There is no play in the bearings themselves and this was rechecked on the vehicles recent MOT (I made sure that there was no grease on the guards when I presented it!). Have I over filled them? Could the axle breather be blocked? Are the seals just simple worn? Just wondering what everyone’s thoughts are before I take it all apart again.

I can recommend jon daunter. I want there looking for a Defender bulkhead. When I arrived the best one they had was still fitted to a complete vehicle. After a deal was done I along with two of his lads helping we had the complete bulkhead out. His guys worked through their break and in the pouring rain as well! Very good service I thought all the way up to the point where they loaded it into my Range Rover and then towed me out of the ditch (outside their gate) which I had got stuck in (it was raining an awful lot)!

My experance of Ashtree was a little odd. I rang them about 3 months ago to enquire about a galvanised bulkhead and after a few phone calls managed to get hold of someone. I spoke to a very nice lady who was extremely polite and after chatting for 15 minutes 'ordered' a galvanised bulkhead with my old one to be taken in exchange on delivery. I was given a lead time of 8 weeks and so once this time had passed I gave them a ring to see on progress. After ringing all the numbers provided, couldn't get hold of anyone. I left two messages but I never heard from them again. Needless to say, I gave up after that. I parted with no money so I have in no way lost out but I did find the whole situation odd. There could well be some mitigating circumstance (for example illness) which is why they never got back in contact. I did wonder if they had closed but the website is still live.

Maybe completely unconnected but for the sake of 10mins work it is worth doing. I had not had my Classic long. I noticed I have a short but very bad vibration at about that speed while pulling away. While looking at the drive train and with two wheels jacked up noticed that there was excessive play in one of the prop shaft U.J's. So bad that the rollers were missing off of two cups! Its worth checking them while not under tension. If nothing else it rules out another potential cause of the problem.

Found a bit of time to have a look at this and found the problem. I started with the Starter Solenoid Relay which wasn’t making any noise when the Ignition key was turned. I replaced this solenoid with another and this made no difference, still wouldn’t start. I had a feed to this solenoid from the ignition but there was no earth. The adjacent diode was checked by running an earth from the right side of it direct to the battery. Once this was done it then started. The wiring diagrams on RAVE show the earth from the starter solenoid running through the Park/Neutral position switch and then through the theft alarm unit. As the theft alarm unit was easy to get to, this was checked out first. The photo shows what was found. Found the problem! Bypass the plug to this unit and the vehicle starts.

Thank you. That is some food for thought. I will make a start on having a look through. If I make any progress then i will report back. Also thank you for the information on RAVE. Many thanks.

What is RAVE? Is it some sort of workshop manual? I have heard of it but am not sure what it is. My computer won't open the link.

There was nothing to the starter motor at all. Won't turn over, just the transmission light coming on. The fault was bypassed by taking a live feed from the barrel when the key is turned to position three and taking that straight to the starter motor. To my surprise, everthing still works, even the alarm. I had eveything out around the glove box and I still couldn't find it.

Many thanks for the replies. Having seen a repair to a spider on a 300tdi disco I set about looking for this on my 300tdi Range Rover. If it is fitted with a spider then it is not in the same place as a disco. I know his having spend the day removing the centre part of the dash, then all of the glove box, then all around the steering coloum....... The starter motor was new a few months ago but was tested anyway with no fault found. The gearbox inhibitor switch was my first thought and I couldn't fault that either. Fault is now bypassed.

I have an N plate Range Rover classic which I have had for the last 6 months. The other day when I came to start it (turned the key to position 3) the transmission warning light came on and it didn’t start. I tried again and it worked. The next day it did this again but this time took a few attempts to start. With each attempt the transmission warning light came on. Now it won’t start at all. Each attempt to start it brings on the transmission warning light. I have checked the temperature sensor and that has a feed and when the wires are shorted the light comes on that is working correctly. The auto box has enough fluid in it as I managed to check that when it was working. The battery has also been fully checked. I have checked all other wires and they all seem to be in order. Has anyone got any thoughts? Many thanks.

Good evening, I have exactly the same problem as described in the original post. As soon as I turn the key to the number 3 position instead of starting the Red gearbox temperature light just illuminates. The gearbox level was checked only days before and that was fine. The starter motor is brand new and the battery has been tested and is good. I am relatively new to RRC ownership and as a consequence to this forum. Regards, Tom.