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Everything posted by rusty_wingnut

  1. So the V8 edition is marginally better performance wise than a 4.4 TDV8 L322......
  2. Right the copy grinder is good, but just like the Makita one it murders batteries. I can flatten my 5Ah in 15mins using a flap wheel - but having said that it's worth it for not having to run a cable to the drive. I've found in the workshop using a flap wheel in the cordless and having a cutting disc in the corded one is the best setup - meaning with an ordinary 2 plug socket I don't need to either keep changing discs/flap wheel or unplugging one tool. The nut runner is still working, and I'm using it 5 days a week now - will do a whole day with two batteries.
  3. The cheap impact Makita copy nut runner was mentioned earlier, I'm still using mine and it's been great. So i treated myself to the copy grinder as well which seems to get good reviews.
  4. a lot of turbo problems are expensive via dealerships. simply because land rover don't replace the turbo actuator, but rather replace the whole unit!! which is crazy considering the electronic box is only around £100! Regardless of dealership issues a lot of issues are solved by simply replacing the turbo actuator. as long as the vanes move freely and you have intact intercooler pipes, that hold pressure.
  5. Everyone is catching up with my thinking!!!
  6. Wow that is cracking, excellent work!
  7. This is a good idea, crossflowing the rad and utilising the whole length in flow is a much better design.
  8. Nearly all engines will show wear of some kind similar to what you have. Unless you want to go to the extent of flushing the engine and the crank I would leave it.
  9. I got a fair bit of use out of mine recently - changing Ifor tyres by the side of the road, and removing some dead M10 bolts on a tipper body. Only had 1 Battery with me but it did a job.
  10. Another tip, if you get hold of the socket and try to turn it as the impact is hammering away that can also help break off stubborn fixings. Every little helps etc.
  11. I've got one, it's good but don't expect miracles from it. I found things like Fergie wheel nuts it won't touch, but if you're looking for something cheap it's bang on
  12. Cheers all, got it apart with help from here.
  13. It does - it’s soft rubber, worried I’m going to destroy the connector if I poke some mig wire down the holes in the front
  14. Does anyone know how this connector comes apart without breaking it? I think I have a broken wire at one of the terminals. 2008 FL2.....
  15. The solid HP pipes require nipping rather tightly, I found it was worth loosening them and then re-seating before tightening fully.
  16. check every connector in the MS loom, make sure each wire and it's associated clip are pushed home properly in the housing. I had an injector not firing properly because of it.
  17. Well Nitromors is a non starter, wouldn't even touch it! That was also after roughing the surface up in between coats. The wall paper steamer didnt do much either. to be continued......
  18. Hi all, I've recently acquired a Land Rover that's been painted over it's original factory colour with some MOD paint, and am looking for ideas on how to remove it? I would like to retain the original factory colour underneath, so things like blasting are out of the question. I've come up with the following ideas; 1) Nitromors or similar, and pressure wash off 2) Wall paper steamer over the body and scrape it off - my local car sprayer reckoned this would work?! 3) Find an abrasive byway Now obviously 3 is out of the question, I'm yet to try number 2, but 1 do
  19. Chopping bulkheads, heat, the fact the engine needs a complete rebuild.
  20. Lurking with interest here, I've got a 2.5petrol and a 3.5V8 potentially lined up for my Series 1. Heart says V8, head says 2.5
  21. well I've done a few jobs with this machine now, what with lockdown and all that. Anyway two things I've noticed: 1) it needs a cup holder 2) it needs a phone holder/charging point. I can see some mods coming!
  22. SO here are some photos showing how to replace any broken/worn gears inside your throttle body. The kit came from ebay for around £25. I would of preferred a mechanical method of fixing the gear to the existing, but so far the super glue seems to be doing a good job. The intermediate gear was a tight fit on the shaft, and I found the hole to not quite be the 5mm required. After a gentle drilling it was still not as loose as the old, but with time hopefully it will loosen up. I've not got to the bottom of the oil inside the body, but I did have a split hose some time ago so wonder i
  23. I've just been through something similar to this and hence felt it useful to include my findings. Initially when I opened the body i found it full of oil! I assume there is a shaft seal which is passing, or is this the build up of vapour over time? The engine is upto 94k now on my FL2. I cleaned the residual oil, noted some wear to my gears and as a result will be replacing the gears with the aluminium replacement kit. I'll photo the process when I undertake the task.
  24. you wouldn't want that to run over your foot!
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