rusty_wingnut

it's defiently EP because: A) it's not red B) it smells and tastes like EP Breather was my only other thought?

the one between the gearbox and transfer case

are we related?

mine was spot on, i had a call to say theneeded to order it from their supplier and then the item arrived a day early

noice!

i bet i paid less for mine than a LS lump....

I have a similar problem developing with my transfer, I changed the front output seal thinking that was knackered and fitted a new flange at the same time (both genuine parts). the nose the transfer has now dried up, but i still have a large amount of oil leaking from somewhere on the box. could the seal have failed between gearbox and transfer? is it the bolt problem listed above? (I haven't touched it!) At a bit of a loss as to what the problem is. The transfer also appears to be oily around the top but it's not excessive help!

TGV coupled to an autobox

new motor is £70 from mail order 4x4. I put mine on with hylomar to seal up the joint and it seems ok.

or do a search, i made some based on a narrow front radius arm bush and these have been very succesful, they have been restraining a 4.2 V8 for over a year now.

Go on my son!

is the top cover matched to the gearbox? the cover has to be machined to suit the box, if not they won't seal. Mine don't leak....

I don't get it either I had a turbo pressure pipe fall off my 90 once, effectively it ran no boost, and was terrible. One thinks people do it because they can't make the standard series engine run right

Good luck to Paul! He needs to get that TGV in, he'd go even faster!!!

what about a lock nut if it's a stud?

they will want to know function of each bolt on part.

don't waste your time, a decent gasket properly fitted is fine.

i know someone with this conversion in a series shortie, and it goes well enough. Not a vast improvement over a good series lump but definetly cheaper than ending up with the same power by taking the turbo off a 200tdi.

thanks white90!

I think it's to do with water in the electrics

Inlet manifold will give you real world conditions...

a little heat was needed to free the bearing from the ally housing. In the end I bought a new motor for a cheap price. I could have revived the old one but it had some wear and clearly water/silt had got in and not drained out. The price for new was very good (£70). When I looked carefully at the winch plate that hold the drum and the motor, I noticed two small slots in the ally that would allow water and carp into the motor casing. The gearbox end is fitted with gaskets to seal it up, so I used a fair bit of hylomar on both ends of the motor and sealed these channels up. The motor might need a vent fitting to it, but there is plenty of scope to drill the motor's casing and fit a vent line. Looking at the winch they're not that bad. I think because they're made for the Australian market they don't perceive deep water or something!

motor arrived a day early, very pleased.

I can't seem to find the code for the transfer box front output seal and drive flange Can anyone help?

ordered up a suprisingly cheap winch motor, got a call 10mins later to say it was going to be a day late due to a supply issue. Haven't received the goods yet but so far I have been impressed.