rusty_wingnut

Thanks

Can anyone give me a part number for the trim panels that sit above the second row doors? The ones with the handles above

Interestingly Vevor tools have started doing fridges. https://www.vevor.co.uk/car-refrigerator-c_10723/vevor-50l-portable-car-refrigerator-compressor-fridge-freezer-cool-box-camping-p_010806694927 I am in the market for a budget fridge to run off my second battery in the 110

It's a great thread. I've got the exact issue with my double. Currently its six bolts and off with the Series 1s roof and lower windscreen, but long term it's not great. The truck cab takes up a fair chunk of floor space, and generally anyone over 5'11" bangs their heads on the up and over doors....... I have approx 2050mm to the underside of the rafters, and even less to the lintels over the doors. The entire roof is flat, 19mm ply and felt, with a decorative 1m x 1m tiled ridge around two sides. Unwisely, we had the roof re-tiled, and the roofer tiled the garage also, including the section where the houses roof joins the garage..... I have had some mad ideas about jacking up the entire roof and placing a new course of blocks underneath, but at the same time wanted to extend the garage backwards to create a four car, but as with anything money is tight.

I've done a sills, boot floor, most of the floor on a mini and it is hateful. Like welding biscuit tin.

You cannot get away from oil/gas unless you want to rewind 150yrs. So forget the laptop/phone/cars/clothes from different designers etc the list goes on and on.

How much "stuff" are we talking? A couple of Pallets?

The only thing about the Milwaukee stuff i've found is the batteries wobble in the tools, which i personally find a bit annoying. In terms of power they are very good though.

Tough times here, but I am putting something in the hat, this cause is well worthy. Respect to Jez.

I've abused one of those copy Makita grinders for around a year now, and it's been nothing short of brilliant. if I need more power then I have a very trusty AEG that I picked up from BOC a few years ago - and that has been first class. I bought another as part of the deal when they were £20!!! I can't understand people who go through grinders, I've only had one before which was a Skil, and that was swapped out because it was a 4" and hard to find discs for.

This is what it's all about - fantastic stuff. Just goes to show that majority of the bolt on carp you see is not needed.

When it stops raining

New stalk didn't improve matters either, so rather bemused I started to remove wiring and circuit test. I tested the bulkhead side earth (even though I had bridged this already) Shamefully I'll admit that in all the wobbling, and checking of the pink relay the buzzing stopped! Possibly a dirty connector down stream, or a broken wire. But for now it is working again. I will investigate further as and when.

Ever seen the videos of the three 80" Land Rovers who cross Europe regularly? No locker, no Power steering, no servo brakes. Most of the time the wipers aren't even working! Why on earth do you need lockers?

Checked earth by running wire from earth terminal to a good earth. The pink relay only buzzes when taking the headlight switch from side to headlights.

Seems I am suffering this problem at the moment. It all started with a buzzing on the pink dip/dim relay, and no lights apart from side lamps and high beam. So I replaced the pink relay thinking it was at fault, but the new unit buzzes once the lights are switched on. I replaced the small light switch back in the summer, and the new unit was a genuine unit. I have pulled the cover off and contacts look fine on this swithc, no burning or sunken connectors. When I remove the pink relay and jump the connectors to remove the dip/dim function the lights work. Before I order a new indicator stalk is there a basic check I can do to confirm the stalk is at fault?

110: -New rear cross -New back door -find a headlining 109" -Use it for more than Goodwood this year! 107" SW: -Fit Radiator/intercooler and finsh rewriring. -Re glaze with new seals

OK, and you take boost readings from the manifold?

Where are you taking boost pressure from? Mine was from the back of the manifold, I also controlled turbo from the same connection.

Exactly what my VNT used to do - honestly they just don't work on TDIs in my experience. I think you require far more control on fuelling to obtain the most from your VNT, which is not easy on a TDI.

How is this going Turbo? I genuinely find myself in strife with the 110, for car parks and something like this would be jolly useful. I can offer MIG gas!

Those hydraulic cylinders look great - exactly what I am after for a little project I am planning. Shame they're all sold out!

There is a known issue with second oil turbo drain, altohugh that really only causes a puff of smoke under hard acceleration. Sounds like it might be an idea to remove that turbo?

Out of interest, I assume if I were to have heated mirrors, i would simply lower the relay amperage value? I've just replaced my screen so no heated screen on the cards for a while.

I was led to believe that the Haldex unit was not considered a service item by Land Rover, but in other VAG applications it is considered a service item! Generally a change of oil is always a good idea in one of these as it's probably never been done! My experience was out FL2 took an age to lock up on slippery surfaces, it was greatly improved by just changing the oil!